Removing Original Head Studs
#16
Race Car
By the time I get the last one out, the first one on the floor is still smoking or too hot to touch...
Not knocking anybody's method but pulling on a stud extractor or a pipe wrench complicates the problem and makes it harder to extract because just like your natural reaction to put your other hand on the stud to support the offset torque of the pipe wrench (as you should), you already know you are pulling at a less than optimum angle.
That's why Chris White's way works for him (impact on center) and the reason I use that slide pull bar you see in the pic. Either way, you are unscrewing the stud on center, not torqued off to the side.
Good luck,
T
#18
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Some blocks and studs fuse together and nothing can save the threads.
#19
Rennlist Member
+1 on MAP gas applied to the block sides where the threads are. In addition to thermal expansion, it helps break down the Red Loctite on the threads. I'm a huge fan of the collet style removers and a large t-bar for turning them, which avoids side-loading them like when you pull on one side with a wrench. If you get it to budge, you often have to work it back and forth a long time before you're out of the woods. I'd be worried an impact wrench would increase the chance of breaking them, but maybe I need to live on the edge a little more...
#20
Rennlist Member
Don't even bother heating the block where you think the threads may be, not necessary. You probably aren't in a hurry but the tig put heat in the stud so fast, you'd never do it any other way forward. By the time you tig the nut, 25% of the stud is glowing.....run the torch a couple more inches down to speed the transfer.
By the time I get the last one out, the first one on the floor is still smoking or too hot to touch...
Not knocking anybody's method but pulling on a stud extractor or a pipe wrench complicates the problem and makes it harder to extract because just like your natural reaction to put your other hand on the stud to support the offset torque of the pipe wrench (as you should), you already know you are pulling at a less than optimum angle.
That's why Chris White's way works for him (impact on center) and the reason I use that slide pull bar you see in the pic. Either way, you are unscrewing the stud on center, not torqued off to the side.
Good luck,
T
By the time I get the last one out, the first one on the floor is still smoking or too hot to touch...
Not knocking anybody's method but pulling on a stud extractor or a pipe wrench complicates the problem and makes it harder to extract because just like your natural reaction to put your other hand on the stud to support the offset torque of the pipe wrench (as you should), you already know you are pulling at a less than optimum angle.
That's why Chris White's way works for him (impact on center) and the reason I use that slide pull bar you see in the pic. Either way, you are unscrewing the stud on center, not torqued off to the side.
Good luck,
T
#21
Race Car
So, builder x is gonna remove stock studs, where there's probably no documented way to know what kind of PO work has been done and save them.....and for what reason...?
To deck the block...., good idea, going the extra yard....and saving the studs...?
To Nikasil the block...? Yup, cool option, gonna take a lot of expensive hardware to accompany the process.....and save the studs....?
A stock 944 stud is like $7 of $8 bucks from Porsche and 10 factory washers and nuts is $30 bucks.
That's around $100 bucks to replace them with factory new studs/nuts and washers.
Save 'em....?
LOL, a race tire is $225 dollars.
I hear ya though, and your post is understood.
T
#22
If the head studs used 574 I found this. Don't remember if it's 574 on head studs. Not sure if anyone has tried this in addition to the TIG method experienced people used. -55C to 150C is the temp range for 574.
http://www.loctite.co.uk/uke/content...rochure_lo.pdf
4 Disassembly
• Disassemble bolts with standard hand tools
• Use lifting-screws, cast bosses or recesses to lift fl anges apart
• For corroded or seized parts, use Loctite® 8040 Freeze & Release
http://www.loctite.co.uk/uke/content...rochure_lo.pdf
4 Disassembly
• Disassemble bolts with standard hand tools
• Use lifting-screws, cast bosses or recesses to lift fl anges apart
• For corroded or seized parts, use Loctite® 8040 Freeze & Release
#23
Rennlist Member
Thought of saving them after removing never crossed my mind to be honest but I guess some people might want to do that.....
So, builder x is gonna remove stock studs, where there's probably no documented way to know what kind of PO work has been done and save them.....and for what reason...?
To deck the block...., good idea, going the extra yard....and saving the studs...?
To Nikasil the block...? Yup, cool option, gonna take a lot of expensive hardware to accompany the process.....and save the studs....?
A stock 944 stud is like $7 of $8 bucks from Porsche and 10 factory washers and nuts is $30 bucks.
That's around $100 bucks to replace them with factory new studs/nuts and washers.
Save 'em....?
LOL, a race tire is $225 dollars.
I hear ya though, and your post is understood.
T
So, builder x is gonna remove stock studs, where there's probably no documented way to know what kind of PO work has been done and save them.....and for what reason...?
To deck the block...., good idea, going the extra yard....and saving the studs...?
To Nikasil the block...? Yup, cool option, gonna take a lot of expensive hardware to accompany the process.....and save the studs....?
A stock 944 stud is like $7 of $8 bucks from Porsche and 10 factory washers and nuts is $30 bucks.
That's around $100 bucks to replace them with factory new studs/nuts and washers.
Save 'em....?
LOL, a race tire is $225 dollars.
I hear ya though, and your post is understood.
T
#25
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The oem studs are fine to reuse and they are of high quality. I am not reusing these studs either but certainly not wrong to want to save them. I completely agree with Tom here. On the other hand, if welding a nut is necessary to remove I am fine with that also.
Great input from all. Thank You!
Great input from all. Thank You!
#26
Rennlist Member
The oem studs are fine to reuse and they are of high quality. I am not reusing these studs either but certainly not wrong to want to save them. I completely agree with Tom here. On the other hand, if welding a nut is necessary to remove I am fine with that also.
Great input from all. Thank You!
Great input from all. Thank You!
#27
Race Car
I pop in for a couple days then disappear like the wind...
I'm really only hanging around for the final word on this from Voith...
T
#28
Race Car
#29
Race Car
Engine gasket kit - $500 - check
Block work - $600 - check
New pistons - $6-$1200 - check
Head reconditioned - $400 - check
Quality rings - $150 - check
Clutch set (while I'm in there) - $600 - check
30 hours labor
Now where'd I put my 150K mile, 5 previous owner head studs....., oh yeah, there they are on the floor under the pile of floor dry...., next to my torque wrench......
T
Block work - $600 - check
New pistons - $6-$1200 - check
Head reconditioned - $400 - check
Quality rings - $150 - check
Clutch set (while I'm in there) - $600 - check
30 hours labor
Now where'd I put my 150K mile, 5 previous owner head studs....., oh yeah, there they are on the floor under the pile of floor dry...., next to my torque wrench......
T
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Engine gasket kit - $500 - check
Block work - $600 - check
New pistons - $6-$1200 - check
Head reconditioned - $400 - check
Quality rings - $150 - check
Clutch set (while I'm in there) - $600 - check
30 hours labor
Now where'd I put my 150K mile, 5 previous owner head studs....., oh yeah, there they are on the floor under the pile of floor dry...., next to my torque wrench......
T
Block work - $600 - check
New pistons - $6-$1200 - check
Head reconditioned - $400 - check
Quality rings - $150 - check
Clutch set (while I'm in there) - $600 - check
30 hours labor
Now where'd I put my 150K mile, 5 previous owner head studs....., oh yeah, there they are on the floor under the pile of floor dry...., next to my torque wrench......
T