Wojo7

Does anyone have any experience with the Lindsey push type clutch conversion?

Quickbeam

I've got a stage 1 Lindsey push clutch. I've used it for about 2 thousand miles. I needed a clutch due to slipping and didn't want to over stress my old clutch fork with a stiffer pp.

The pros in my experience of the Lindsey push clutch are: you remove the fork and better power train response due to a lightened rotating mass.

The cons in my experience are: clutch chatter depending on atmospheric conditions and transmission gear rattle due to lightened rotating mass.

Since my car is street driven, I can't deal with the harshness and noise. If I could do it again, I would ask if I could use an oem style disk and ask for an unlightened flywheel.

Paulyy

Chatter would mostly be the clutch disc face/materials and possibly flywheel if aftermarket.

Dougs951S

It will also likely get better with more miles. My experience with clutches that are more aggressive than stock is that they can take ~5k miles to fully break in.

Wojo7

Transmission gear rattle? I wasn't expecting that kind of result from lightening the rotating mass. What kind of modifications were necessary for the clutch pedal stop?

Quickbeam

I had no idea about the gear rattle either but after some internet searching I decided it was normal.

For the stop I just drilled a hole in the factory pedal stop and zip tied on a rubber bumper.

Tom M'Guinn

I've tried many clutch packages on the 951 and every one has had too much chatter for a street car. The Southbend package was pretty close, but still chattered at times. The only one I've tried that holds gobs of power without chatter is the KEP/cup combo. It holds 500rwhp and engages like a stock car...what's not to love?

odonnell

Can you guys elaborate on the need for an alternative clutch pedal stop with the push style?

Quickbeam

Not sure if a pedal stop is needed but the packaging from spec says to use one. I never called Lindsey to find out if it was really necessary. There were no instructions with the kit.

Jarod092

I am running the Mini Spec clutch from Lindsay with the push slave cylinder.
Its great in a race car, not sure about a road car.
The clutch does not have much pedal travel (I should fit a smaller master cylinder as I have a floor mounted pedal box)
You DO need to limit the clutch pedal travel or you will push the centre out of the slave cylinder
You only want about half to an inch of pedal movement past full clutch disengagement.

Dave W.

Thanks for the tip, that's good info.

Player0

Will confirm you need an increased pedal stop if you keep your clutch pedal adjusted per stock. The master cylinder has enough volume to pop the slave piston out at full stroke.

It is possible to adjust the clutch pedal under the dash to account for this without the pedal stup. But the clutch pedal will sit much lower than usual, and it does not return 'upwards' as nicely.

V2Rocket

maybe need to add a pedal extension (basically move the pedal "face" further towards you ?
or just longer MC pushrod ?