bradthebold

Got everything this out last weekend.

There were a couple surprises. The engine idled fine and had minimal movement when revved, but when we dropped the subframe, both engine mounts were torn completely in half. I expected to replace those anyways at least.

The clutch never slipped during the test drive, but when we got it off it was worn down to the rivets and the rivets have worn grooves into the flywheel. I was planning on resurfacing the flywheel, but I'm not sure it's savable now. It's probably impossible to tell from the picture.




Then I forgot to free the crank bolt while it was in the car, and it's being very resistant on the stand now. I've snapped/belt several flywheel/grade 8 bolts trying to hold the crank from spinning. I'm going to try to pull it from the stand, put the flywheel back on, and figure out how to bolt the flywheel to the block and hopefully get it out.

Picked up some Carrera III wheels last weekend too.

Tom M'Guinn

My car is 3 liters, but has lots of those parts (clutch, VR5, aquamist, etc.). My car gets down to 2 on the oil pressure gauge when the oil is very hot (with a factory new oil pump). Can't go wrong with Vitesse. That set-up will make for a very fast car. You'll need all the ignition you can get, so don't even think about using old plugs/wires/cap/rotor after doing all that other work. In fact, consider moving over to the MSD 6A box and suitable coil. KEP1/cup will hold that power no problem. Change the fuel lines --you'll never know when they are needed until it's too late. If motors coming out, I'd do mounts and front b/s seals too. At 117k miles, it's ready for a valve job if that hasn't been done. Consider the Nissan alternator swap too; and the mcmaster dipstick o-ring; and a catch can with drilled AOS.

Tom M'Guinn

For that front bolt, try a 3/4" ingersoll rand impact with all the air pressure you can muster. It "usually" works...

bradthebold

I'll look into the MSD box. The wires don't look bad, so I was thinking some maintenance might have been done, but probably not. Same with fuel lines, the dampener line insulation is split.

Motors out, mounts are toast and will be replaced. I'm planning on doing front and rear b/s seals since it is out.

Is the alternator just to clear the larger turbo? I'll have to check with John and see if it should or not. Catch can would be good too.

As for the valve job, should I mess with the head with the good leak down numbers? I don't want to strip a stud or I've seen a few threads of shops cracking heads pressing in the valve guides incorrectly.

And then if I do that, I might as well get a ported LR head, and then you might as well get bigger intercooler lines and a higher flowing intercooler, etc. It's hard to pick a reasonable stopping point.

Tom M'Guinn

Vitesse turbos will clear the stock alternator. You'll probably need to alter the duct on the back of the alternator (to eliminate the protrusion where the cable enters) to buy a little room, and it will still be tight. No different than any turbo with a big inlet. The Nissan alternator frees up lots of extra room. Not necessary, per se, but nice. As for the valves, at 117k miles, I'd probably do it if they've never been touched. It's rare to damage one, but they're cheap anyway. You lost me at "reasonable stopping point" -- I'll have to look that up...

bradthebold

The alternator definitely looks worthwhile., so I'll do that. I have decided on the 3rx kit and am trying to decide on everything related before I order. I plan on getting the piggyback, v-knock, and boost solenoid. My plan is to use the piggyback to fine tune and as an electronic boost controller with the solenoid.

So my questions: What is the best wideband setup that would interact with the piggyback? Could I get a cheap MTX-L gauge and log with the piggyback, or should I get an independent ZR-2/ZT-2 setup?

And then for the W/M injection, the piggyback can control the injection. Would it be able to interact with a cheaper setup (Devil's Own e.g.) and provide the necessary failsafes, or should I get an independent Aquamist HFS3 setup?

Basically I'm looking for the cheapest best way to accomplish all of this if the piggyback can make up for some of the short coming of cheaper kits.

slownrusty

I am going through the same process right now with an '87 I recently bought except I am focused on maintenance.

Like you I bought my maintenance items from Lindsey, Zims and Pelican. I also received the Uro water pump from Zims but sent it back as I didn't want to take any chances based on Uro's reputation, 99.9% I'm sure that water pump will be fine but for piece of mind I bought a brand new Laso from Pelican, which was a $100 more.

Good luck, you've got your hands full!

Humboldtgrin

Might as well get a clutch master cylinder brace while your in there. And replace the flexible clutch line. You should just open another bank account for that car. No I'm not joking. I don't even want to know how much I have spent on my 951 since I wrecked the quarter panel in November of 2014. And I just found that the frame is bent on the front rails once I stripped the engine bay. There are surprises sometimes.
You may want to put in some rod bearings just to be safe.

ealoken

Whats the HP rating on stage 3 turbo?

bradthebold

I was wondering about a firewall brace, like only944 or the new one being developed by vt951, if it would be necessary for the kep 1 pressure plate. The line would probably be good and rod bearings are on the list.

Stage 3 says 310-330whp at 15psi, though it looks like people claim they've gotten significantly more than that. I'm aiming for ~380-400whp on probably 20psi with meth if I can.

pole position

That is a extremely optimistic goal and at 20 psi it is not staying together long,however if you find one of those super happy dynojets it will look good on paper but still trapping a poor 115

bradthebold

Current order list:

Pelican

X Rod bearings (call to check with number)
X ER rubber Spring plate bushings
X ER rubber Control arm bushings – sport hardness
X ER rubber Trailing arm bushings
X Curil T
X Crank bolt
X Distributor gasket
X Front engine seal kit
X 3x mylar gaskets
X Crank, cam, balance shaft woodruff keys
X Oil pump sleeve and o-ring
X Cam housing seal
X Oil level sensor gasket
X Oil pan gasket
X Oil pick up tube seal ring
X Upper/lower AOS seals
X AOS elbow
X Elring rear main seal
X Turbo oil o-rings
X 2x upper turbo oil line to balance shaft 900-123-007-30
X 2x turbo oil line to oil pan 900-123-049-30
X Turbo thermostat
X 29mm torsion bars
X Head gasket kit
X Valve guides
X Tie rod ends
X Seat tilt **** and clip pair
X Interior trim plug
X Exhaust gaskets beyond what comes with the turbo and SFR exhaust?
X Axle nuts
X Oil drain plug washersX CV boot or joint kit
X Measure turbo to j-boot crush washer
koni yellow rear shocks
Spark plugs
Water housings
Textar front brake pads
Fuel filter




Paragon

X Kep stage 1 pp w/cup clutch
X Clutch accessory kit
X Sta-lube fluid pump
X Front sway bar stiffeners
X Adjustable ride height 300lb springs
X KLA strut brace (maybe)
X Assembly lube - amazon
X Oil filters
X Oil cooler gasket set w/OPRV seals
X KLA rear drop links
X Water pump mount kit w/thermostat
X Exhaust hardware kit
X Ball joint kit


Lindsey Racing

X Rod nuts
X 968 M030 sway bars & bushings
X Fuel line insulation
X R134a Adapter kit
X AC Dryer
X PS belt
X Alternator belt
X Timing belt kit
X Loctite 574
X Strut top nut
X Strut top gasket
X Copper exhaust gaskets
X Steam vent kit
X Head nuts/washers


Arnnworx

X Throttle body reseal kit
X Timing belt tools


USP Motorsport

X Tial F38 – Fejjj for adapters


SFR

X Coated downpipe
X 3” testpipe
X 3” magnaflow catback


Larts

X Fuel lines
X Brake lines
X Koni yellow front strut inserts
X Engine mounts
X Flywheel

Rennbay
E-code H4 lights and harness


ECS

Rear torsion tube chassis mount bushing if necessary


Rock Auto

X Uro water pump


McMaster

X Dipstick o-ring
X Spiral retaining ring for thermostat
X 60A urethane


X ZT-2/ZR-2 wideband setup - picked up used
Some basic meth setup John said we could wire up with failsafes using the piggyback


Ask John about spark plugs & wasted spark, otherwise new coil, cap, rotor, wires
X Get hylomar from somewhere
X Going to send TT to black sea for rebuild most likely
Hopefully can resurface flywheel
X Find a nissan quest alternator to swap in


Anything else I'll need thats missing? Everything is off and mostly disassembled, so I need some parts to start putting it back together.

V2Rocket

Hi,
The light harness is a GREAT upgrade.
But rather than going with regular H4 you would be well ahead to get the "Euro H4" lenses instead as they have a much better light spread.

If you have state safety inspections maybe just swap them out for a set of cheap sealed beams every few years.

bradthebold

Yeah, I think we mean the same thing, the E-codes from Rennbay. I have no inspections luckily, so I plan on running 80/100W bulbs.

V2Rocket

those things will be like flicking on the sun at night.
good call.