hinton

Well, seeing as my budget build got derailed I thought I'd start a new thread. Following the ever popular 2.85 hybrid stroker plans I have started collecting parts. This far I have filled the block and I have the rods and pistons.

Today, I took delivery of the most important piece, my freshly offset ground crank. While they were at it I had them cross drill the #2 and #3 rod bearings to 3/16".

Next the crank and block go back to the machine shop to be sleeved, decked, balanced etc. This won't be a timely thread most likely but I thought I'd document it anyways!

Jay Wellwood

Where'd you get the crank machined at?

hinton

A company called ShafTech out of Fostoria, OH. They are somewhat local to me (Cincinnati) and specialize in modifying cranks. Although I haven't seen the numbers on the runout yet now that it's machined everything looks to be perfect.

SamGrant951

who is doing the block? Im in Indy and doing a similar build...thanks

hinton

D&D Engines in Cincy. They weren't too keen on filling the block due to the filler being over the bottom water pump hole so I just took care of that part.

The Performance Clinic out of Dayton was also able to do everytging and a hair cheaper but D&D was closer.

Both shops got got good reviews from the local domestic drag racers.

hinton

Update...

FINALLY got the block and rotating assembly back from the machine shop. They cleaned, decked and sleeved the block, as well as zero balanced the rotating assembly. While they were at it, I had them measure the TIR on the crank to double check ShafTec's work and they found zero runout.

Also, one place they deviated from the other builds is the small ends on the rods. They went ahead and machines enough of the rod out to install SBC Rod bushings to adapt to the pin. This removed a little extra material but allows me to still run a bronze bushing.

Here are some pics.

Jay Wellwood

Simply fantastic.

refresh951

Looks a bit thin an the small end. How much did they have to remove? What kind ow power will this motor make?

hinton

I didn't get an exact figure. The pictures make it look a bit worse than it is due to the bevel edge not showing the thickness well.

Current plan is to use a Lindsey Super 61 (T04B, stage 5) turbo, factory heads, cam and intake along with Megasquirt, a Bosch 044, 80# injectors and meth injection. Shooting for 400 whp on the high boost setting, with 325-350 for normal driving.

I'm assuming all is still well with your build not having the bronze on the small end?

Also, thank you for putting your website together, it was instrumental in figuring all this out!

hinton

Here are some more pics of the rods ends.

The top of the first pic is the rods as delivered, with the second shot being after modifications.

The second pic is post mods.

Dave W.

I also had my Eagle rods bored out for the SBC size pin, plus a bronze bushing was installed. They're still going strong after two years of use. I'd keep the rev limit reasonably safe, tho.

hinton

Good to know, thanks!

fejjj

I went by Shaw's advice that the bushings were not necessary.

hinton

So I have a bit of a problem... The machine shop lost all of the fasteners for the main bearing cap / girdle. They think I didn't include the fasteners when I dropped everything off (maybe I didn't?) but I have searched high and low and do not have them. So, beyond ordering a raceware kit, how can i source the fasteners?

I am missing all of the nuts and washers from the studs:
(10) M12-1.5 nuts and washers (larger main studs)
(7) M10-1.5 nuts and washers (smaller main studs)
(1) M6-1.0 nut and washer

As well as the bolts for the outer edge of the main cap:
(8) M8-1.25 bolts and washers, unknown length (2"?)
(5) M6-1.0 bolts and washers, unknown length (1.5"?)

The machine shop offered to get me ARP replacements, but then said they could not source the correct sizes from ARP. They are now offering me standard Grade 5 fasteners.

Am I crazy to be weary of using standard Grade 5? Does anyone know of a source for this hardware, or happen to have spares I could purchase? Should I just bite the bullet and order the raceware stud kit and use Grade 5 bolts for the outer edge?

gruhsy

They can't be purchased directly from Porsche?