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Is anyone managing to get their power to hold (not drop off) over 6k rpm as it seems to be a real problem with the 8v head...particularly on my 3.0? Does it make it worth risking it to such high rpms or spending out on a dry sump unless you have a 16v engine?
Nick, not many but sometimes you have to hold a gear and you do rev past where the curve starts to drop. It also depends on mods to the head. On this current 2.5ltr we rev to 8000 and sometimes a little above. But it has been built to do this. On the previous 3.1ltr it still dropped off not much after low 6's and it had bigger valves and cam. The gearing to track relationship has an effect too.
[QUOTE=Paulyy;13053489]
Originally Posted by 333pg333
I'd believe that. Even though some have got away with using stock components on track cars I have found that there are some parts that just have to be replaced with something larger, superior and contemporary. Not to shoot down stock parts but they were designed decades ago for a lot less hp than people are seeing nowadays.
The stock pump is good for what it is. But yes, for pushing these cars to that limit past 7k rpm. ive been told it will suffer from cavitation which i do believe. I dont know anyone going past 7k on the track?? you might.
When my oil pump was out, i looked at if there's a way to modify it to pump more oil.
Not much you can do with it really.
I'm not sure quite what Sean revs his 16v to but it's higher than 6000rpm and that's with stock pump.
Originally Posted by AlphaOmegaPower
I think the whole build has to compliment the rpms. I was asked before I started anything how high I was going to rev. That was the first question.
You find pretty quickly that you don't need to wring it's head off (literally) to get moving quickly down the road. All the tq you'll have will get up and moving quickly. I tend to change gears based on sound, not any dials. You can tell when it's pushing the car too far. Sometimes based on gearing you do need to hold it in a gear longer than you'd advocate ordinarily but it's better than changing gears for a second only to have to change back down again.
You find pretty quickly that you don't need to wring it's head off (literally) to get moving quickly down the road. All the tq you'll have will get up and moving quickly. I tend to change gears based on sound, not any dials. You can tell when it's pushing the car too far. Sometimes based on gearing you do need to hold it in a gear longer than you'd advocate ordinarily but it's better than changing gears for a second only to have to change back down again.
Lmaooooooo I thought I was the only person who did that.
It's weird driving a car with a quiet exhaust cause I never look to see what speed in going. Do it all based on sound the last few years.
Is anyone managing to get their power to hold (not drop off) over 6k rpm as it seems to be a real problem with the 8v head...particularly on my 3.0? Does it make it worth risking it to such high rpms or spending out on a dry sump unless you have a 16v engine?
Mine doesn't drop off. But not sure with the .63 turbine housing. Haven't logged.
Has anyone seen a 944/968 variant running dry sump and keeping all of the accessories like AC and PS? I'm building a high RPM 968 engine for my riv blue coupe and intend to use it for everything: weekend, road trip, autocross, track day.
It directly mentions in the specs a custome bracket that allows use of a dry sumo with p/s and a/c retention. They seem to be well respected and I believe are rennlist members.
Albert Broadfoot (Broadfoot Racing) mounts the pump on the ps bracket which therefore retains the ac but requires manual steering. I see he uses some CEP parts and he’s built some nice dry sump engines in his time, might be worth giving him a call.
02-26-2016, 04:45 PM
