mahoney944

I found it much easier to remove the alternator and access them from the front of the car up top. That eliminates the need for extendo bendo rachets from way under the car.

kevinr1247

Although some of the bolts can be accessed from the top, I believe that there are a couple that have to accessed from underneath, in particular, the 6mm hex bolts.

Yes, I have read that it's easier to get to those bolts with the alternator removed, and the steering rack moved about 3 inches or so. I've also read that it can be done without removing either. I will do whatever I can to avoid stripping the bolts. That's my prime concern.

mahoney944

The first time I did it I loosened the steering rack and reached up there with long extensions and universal joint attachments. It slipped alot and I couldn't get a solid turn on the mounting bolts. So I pulled the alternator and used a small rachet with a small pipe, maybe one super short extension and it couldn't have been easier, especially when retightening those bolts. I'll never reach from below again. Theres a heat shield over the steering knuckle that needs removed first. I left mine off. And I'm glad I did for it makes getting in there so much easier. I've done about 4 turbo swaps on these cars. The first time took me 8 to 10 hours. Now I can get it done in 4 or so hours. Theres a learning curve for what works best. Some bolts can be tricky but all and all pretty simple.

kevinr1247

So to be clear, removing the alternator allows easier access to the 6mm hex mounting bolts. Then what bolts are left that must be accessed from underneath? The M8s pictured below right? I believe they are 13mm.

mahoney944

Yes removing the alternator allows easy access to the turbos mounting bolts. Theres a heat sheild in that area that guards the steering nuckle if your car still has it. It's small and curved. I believe it has to be removed first. It's held on by two bolts. But basically to do the job you'll need to remove the intake manifold, airbox, hard pipes, fuel rail. Unbolt the exhaust crossover pipe from the turbos side and the down pipe where the cat back attaches to it, remove the steering nuckle heat shield and remove the turbo mounting bolts. In a nut shell. Obviously coolant will spill if you don't drain it first. It's really not as bad as it sounds.

kevinr1247

Uh huh. That's not the impression I get reading some of the threads. It looks like a challenge especially from the point of view of an amateur wrencher. But it must be done, and done well.

Techno Duck

See this thread for some tips

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...pictorial.html

kevinr1247

Researched this thread quite a bit and it's one of the ones that doesn't make it out to be so easy! Thanks for documenting everything. Very helpful.

kevinr1247

Parts Needed via Clark's Garage
944 111 205 03 Turbocharger Outlet Flange Seal Ring
944 111 205 04 Turbocharger Inlet Flange Seal Ring
944 111 205 03 Turbocharger Outlet Pipe to Cat Pipe Flange Seal Ring
999 707 043 40 Turbocharger Supply Line O-Ring (top of turbocharger) (Note correct part #)
900 174 058 40 Turbocharger Oil Discharge O-Ring (between bottom of turbo and motor mount bracket)
999 707 043 40 Turbocharger Oil Inlet Flange O-Ring (top of turbocharger bearing housing) (Note correct part #)
N 013 814 8 (900-123-007-30-M131) Turbocharger Oil Supply Line Banjo Bolt Seal Rings (2 Needed)

My addition to Clark's list:
AOS seals
lower 999-701-661-40-M17
upper 999-701-613-40-M104
Intake Manifold Gasket 944-110-163-05-M17

EDIT: It looks like Lindsay has a nice package of all the replacement parts. http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/944TURBOMISC.html