mochman

re-aligning my car tomorrow what would be a good street setting car is lowered approx 1" 250lb srings and camber plates 225/50 front and 245/45 rears
on a different note is a map system better than a maf?
thanx

rhesus

do a search... you will find TONS of info on the MAP vs MAF debate

Sami951

I've got about -1.5deg camber rear, -1deg front, caster -3deg front, toe-in 0.10 front and rear ... 225/40 and 255/35 tires, 250lb springs front. It's definately a pushy setup, but might be just a bit too much for 100% street use. I've been to a track a few times this year and my tire wear is about as even as it can be (I need to post a pic..)

Next year I'm going to get more camber in front, and also get rid of toe-in.

Check out this article for more suggestions:
http://www.davidsims.ukgateway.net/9...reparation.htm

Hope this helps!

TonyG

I use:

Front: -1.2 camber, -2.5 caster, 0 toe

Rear: -1.6 camber , 0 toe

No torsion bars, 250lbs front/350lbs rear with coil overs.

Weltmeister sway bars front full stiff, rear 3/4 stiff.

Car level at the door sil.

This give a little understeer at the limit, but with excellent turn-in and rotation through the corners with Hoosiers (as well as street tires). May be a little quick turn-in for you.. in which case add .10" toe-in in the rear.

ninefiveone

Front: -2.2 camber, -3.0 caster, 0 toe

Rear: -1.5 camber , 0.1 toe

Stock springs, Koni Yellows (1/3 stiff in front, 1/2 stiff in the rear), M030 Sways (Half stiff in the rear), strut bad and MPSC meats.

Car level at the door sil.

Van

If you're driving on the street, stock is probably fine. If you want a car that turns in a little faster, but one that's a little twitch going fast in a straight line, go with 0 degrees of toe in for the rear, and almost 0 degrees of tow in (like 0.05) for the front. If you get any toe out in the front, the car will feel very unstable -- that's why factory is about 0.1 to 0.15.

As for negative camber, the more negative camber you have, the flatter a contact patch (more area=more rubber touching the raod) you'll be able to get while you're cornering hard. However, the flip side is you'll wear out the inside of the tires if you drive straight a lot (street). I'd probably recommend -1 for the front, and about the same for the rear. If you're going to track the car, go with -1.5 for each. If you're running track tires, between -2 and -3.

I've always left the caster at the factory spec (you want it to be identical for both sides) and been very happy with that.

Good luck.

Alpine951

I have been wondering about my alignment lately. I have been tracking my daily driver about 5 to 7 times a year for the last three years. How about getting camber plates so you can set it for the track and change it for the street.

C5Driver951

If you change your camber for the track with camber plates, make sure you check your toe change. Whenever you add more negative camber you will add toe out. This could be the desired result or you can end up with a very unstable car that turns in great.

I run:

-1.5 front with 2.8 caster (all I could get evenly, will try again to get more) and no toe
-1.75 rear and no toe

350# fronts
25.5 torsion bars + 200 lb/in helpers
turbo cup sway bars
revalved shocks

With this set up I had slightly more wear on the outer edges. I am going to try -1.75 and -2.0.

adrial

Is there any reason to NOT max out caster aside from increased steering effort?

Also, is toe in a positive toe number or negative? Positive I would imagine, correct?

Van

Correct, toe in is a positive #. Negative # means you have toe OUT.