Paulyy

I believe this is a job that not everyone will tackle. Some may attempt and others wont have an issue.

I had no problem doing this. it is a PITA with out removing the sump. But do-able.
Apply loctite 574 where needed and torque up. (the write up is on clarks garage)

The horror is when you go crank the engine to build oil pressure and there's none.
You try again and theres none.
You start the car and theres still no pressure so you panic and shut it off.
You pull apart the pulleys then scratch your head that everything is put together properly.
Then you start banging away at the keyboard looking for reasons why theres no oil pressure.

We ended up putting some regulated(ish) (wasn't much really..) air in the dipstick and started cranking and it slowly built up.

Relative that theres oil pressure and hopefully the end of the line for my oil leaks.

Cyberpunky

well done mate, and hope that sorts your leaks finally

Paulyy

Thanks bruce. I hope so. So far looks good.
How far has yours come along? Off the dyno yet?

V2Rocket

isn't the trick to pour oil down the oil filter holes to prime the pump a little?
smart move with the pressurized air.

Paulyy

That's what the manual says. Didn't do much for me.

reno808

I wouldn't have started the car. Is it all good now?

Paulyy

Runs fine, had it running for 10 mins and so far so good. got late so packed up.

It was only at low idle (500rpm) so no different than cranking really. but only stayed on for a couple of seconds to see if it would lift pressure.

kev951

even with priming the oil galleys, this almost always happens after a rebuild, i usually take the plugs out , crank with dme relay and fuel pump fuse out, and add the air in the dipstick. pressure usually builds quickly but has taken up to half an hour using this method

Humboldtgrin

What I do and it seems to works every time is take out the oil pressure relief valve and use a hand pump to pump some oil back to the oil pump, reinstall the OPRV and turn it over to prime it.