When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So, I have a buddy who drives an 86 turbo and he just had his clutch done last year, now its slipping bad. he skimped on having his flywheel resurfaced and I have to assume its the one that came with the car 160k ago plus he had a local very small town mechanic do the job.
He is a fellow soldier and simply cannot afford a whole new clutch kit and labor. so seeing as I have done the clutch job on my own car I am going to do it for him.
he is trying to save as much as possible and we came across one of Larts ads for a used disc PP and flywheel.
now I know lart sells very good used parts but whats the opinion here on putting a used clutch in, in the first place.. Its a huge savings, well over half of what everything cost new and this guy could use all the savings he can get.
yeah this kit is the stage 3+ spec kit. the pics look like it barely got used. and if im right the 3+ is kevlar.
I might give lart a message and ask him more detail on it.
I'm making him buy a new hardware kit. no matter what he ends up doing god knows if the last job used the old stuff or not.
Lart wouldn't sell you a "used" clutch unless he'd be willing to put it in his car. He knows the hours taken to do this job. Very nice of you to give your time to your friend while teaching him how to do the job.
Originally Posted by Bladed-vaults
yeah this kit is the stage 3+ spec kit. the pics look like it barely got used. and if im right the 3+ is kevlar.
I might give lart a message and ask him more detail on it.
I'm making him buy a new hardware kit. no matter what he ends up doing god knows if the last job used the old stuff or not.
Lart wouldn't sell you a "used" clutch unless he'd be willing to put it in his car. He knows the hours taken to do this job. Very nice of you to give your time to your friend while teaching him how to do the job.
I feel obligated as I kind of talked him into the car in the first place (he was going to buy some kids worked over 240sx for almost twice the price .
Originally Posted by docwyte
Larr is a stand up guy but I never buy wear items used. Especially a clutch since it's such a pita to install.
Also a stage 3+ clutch will be overkill unless the car is heavily modded and won't be fun to drive on the street.
Its got the m-tune plus all the supporting 300whp lindsey kit. (super38???) put in by the previous owner. not crazy fast but i dont see this being TOO much clutch for the car.
We ended up pulling the trigger. Lart gave a fantastic deal, enough so that He will be able to afford the hardware kit RMS and pay an exhaust shop to weld his exhaust back up after we chop it off. Though he will go in debt buying me beers for a while
I may have to start a new thread but I just got a chance to actually drive the car for the first time since the clutch started slipping.
It's not what he described. It only slips while in boost. Up towards 4500+.. half throttle pushes up to there it won't let go but WOT it slips like crazy.
I may have to start a new thread but I just got a chance to actually drive the car for the first time since the clutch started slipping.
It's not what he described. It only slips while in boost. Up towards 4500+.. half throttle pushes up to there it won't let go but WOT it slips like crazy.
Are you asking if it still needs a clutch? If so, the short answer is definitely yes. However, you can turn the boost down, or just stay out of boost in higher gears. I have experienced this exact symptom on a few 951's over the years, and a new clutch resolved the issue. There is a slight, very slight chance that the clutch is not adjusted properly under the dash at the clutch master, but I'm sure everything is glazed and burnt if this has been happening for any time. Hope this is helpful. Btw, why are you cutting the exhaust to do a clutch job?
Are you asking if it still needs a clutch? If so, the short answer is definitely yes. However, you can turn the boost down, or just stay out of boost in higher gears. I have experienced this exact symptom on a few 951's over the years, and a new clutch resolved the issue. There is a slight, very slight chance that the clutch is not adjusted properly under the dash at the clutch master, but I'm sure everything is glazed and burnt if this has been happening for any time. Hope this is helpful. Btw, why are you cutting the exhaust to do a clutch job?
Ok I figured as much. I had never seen a clutch slip in the higher revs like that.
He had some shop put in a 3 inch exhaust and instead of putting in proper connections they chopped off half of the downpipe and put 3 inch in. Again instead of using a reducer or crunching the pipe to fit onto the 2.5 downpipe they just filled in the space with weld.
It doesn't leak. But it's the laziest thing I've ever seen and needs to be cut and done proper.
Ok I figured as much. I had never seen a clutch slip in the higher revs like that.
He had some shop put in a 3 inch exhaust and instead of putting in proper connections they chopped off half of the downpipe and put 3 inch in. Again instead of using a reducer or crunching the pipe to fit onto the 2.5 downpipe they just filled in the space with weld.
It doesn't leak. But it's the laziest thing I've ever seen and needs to be cut and done proper.
Im pretty sure that it's slipping at the higher revs, because that where peak torque come on and in higher gears it is much more noticeable due to the additional load. I am running the Spec clutch, I think it was what Lindsey sold as spec III+, but it's been several years. It has heavier pedal compared to stock and will take some getting used to but my small wife has no trouble with it. It has less modulation, but is a very nice upgrade and should give him plenty of room to grow.
I feel obligated as I kind of talked him into the car in the first place (he was going to buy some kids worked over 240sx for almost twice the price .
Its got the m-tune plus all the supporting 300whp lindsey kit. (super38???) put in by the previous owner. not crazy fast but i dont see this being TOO much clutch for the car.
We ended up pulling the trigger. Lart gave a fantastic deal, enough so that He will be able to afford the hardware kit RMS and pay an exhaust shop to weld his exhaust back up after we chop it off. Though he will go in debt buying me beers for a while
Clutch showed up today would like to thank Lart for a great buying experience.
The clutch itself looks barely used at all.. the flywheel doesn't have any runout but does have a a few small blue spots. I'm going to hit it with some 180 sandpaper and a scotch pad to prep.
The only shop within 40 miles with a lathe wants 45 to resurface plus 25 because they aren't doing the job themselves... outrageous...
I'll keep updates my unit goes to the field until Feb 5 so no work to be done til then.
I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but that clutch has slipped and gotten quite hot. That's what turned the metal blue. The Kevlar side of the disc looks glazed. Once glazed, you can't un-glaze it. If that was a full Kevlar stage 2 disc, you would be well advised to replace it. Since one side is metallic, you might have enough clutch to hold. You're just going to have to put it all together and see what happens.
It would be smart to quickly hit the flywheel with a DA sander with some 220 grit or better yet get it surfaced somewhere because maybe it's warped. I would leave the disc alone because messing with it will only worsen things. Hit the PP surface with a DA as well. You shouldn't have a pressure plate re-surfaced. Doing that lessens the clamp load or capacity of the clutch which is already in question. Some might say grind the mounting face whatever you grind the plate, but that's not a good route to go.
Good luck with the project!
__________________
Mike or Dave Lindsey www.lindseyracing.com
U.S. 1-877-943-3565
Other 1-405-947-0137
I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but that clutch has slipped and gotten quite hot. That's what turned the metal blue. The Kevlar side of the disc looks glazed. Once glazed, you can't un-glaze it. If that was a full Kevlar stage 2 disc, you would be well advised to replace it. Since one side is metallic, you might have enough clutch to hold. You're just going to have to put it all together and see what happens.
It would be smart to quickly hit the flywheel with a DA sander with some 220 grit or better yet get it surfaced somewhere because maybe it's warped. I would leave the disc alone because messing with it will only worsen things. Hit the PP surface with a DA as well. You shouldn't have a pressure plate re-surfaced. Doing that lessens the clamp load or capacity of the clutch which is already in question. Some might say grind the mounting face whatever you grind the plate, but that's not a good route to go.
Good luck with the project!
Hey Mike thanks for the advice. I had already planned on sanding the flywheel for prep as I've done it on other cars before.
I am working on him to buy a fresh disc but at 200+ give or take I'm not sure if he can swing it (he's going through a divorce hence the purpose behind the used in the first place)
Here are some better pics of the clutch disc itself. I was under the impression even before this thread, that kevlar linings will be ok after glazing is worn off. I do apologise if I had been misled on this.
01-07-2016, 06:38 PM
buying a used clutch? (not for me)
.
