Won't run unless I pull the fuel pump fuse
10-12-2018, 02:14 AM
#48
Three Wheelin'
Chris, thanks for the input. Since testing the injector harness I went through every single sensor harness plug yesterday and tested looking for any shorting or signs of an issue and couldn’t find one, even with the disgusting shape the harness for the speed and ref sensors the numbers are still bang on.
I physically pulled each injector and tested them direct to the battery and they each clicked.
Half of the sensors are new or replaced and the others have outputs within spec so if it is electrical I agree with you and Dan that it’s gotta be a DME.
I didn’t know that unplugging the AFM makes the DME run a different air fuel map. Even with my new one unplugging it helps the idle. So if it runs good on one map, their could be internal damage in the DME circuitry on the regular map.
I finally found someone who’s got a DME they are willing to lean me to test out so that should be a pretty definitive test.
Once the cars running, I’ll treat her to an injector cleaning lol and a new set of tires since mine are now lopsided from sitting.
I physically pulled each injector and tested them direct to the battery and they each clicked.
Half of the sensors are new or replaced and the others have outputs within spec so if it is electrical I agree with you and Dan that it’s gotta be a DME.
I didn’t know that unplugging the AFM makes the DME run a different air fuel map. Even with my new one unplugging it helps the idle. So if it runs good on one map, their could be internal damage in the DME circuitry on the regular map.
I finally found someone who’s got a DME they are willing to lean me to test out so that should be a pretty definitive test.
Once the cars running, I’ll treat her to an injector cleaning lol and a new set of tires since mine are now lopsided from sitting.
Wow cool info Chris, thanks.
Curious... when testing one injector connector while the others are plugged in, my reading is even +12V both pins. With all plugs disconnected, the same plug drops to 10V on one side; not as drastic as Jakob's, but a drop nontheless. Normal?
I'm chasing a long-running issue that is slight but... perhaps the infant stages of something Jacob is getting.
Looking forward to the DME swap test!
Curious... when testing one injector connector while the others are plugged in, my reading is even +12V both pins. With all plugs disconnected, the same plug drops to 10V on one side; not as drastic as Jakob's, but a drop nontheless. Normal?
I'm chasing a long-running issue that is slight but... perhaps the infant stages of something Jacob is getting.
Looking forward to the DME swap test!
10-26-2018, 06:24 PM
#50
Drifting
Hey Jakob.. I finally cleaned out the AFM and did the "bend the contact to a new spot on the carbon strip" thing. Seems to have fixed my issue and generally improved throttle response. Big change!
Just reminds me how something on these old cars can 'test' good yet still be off. Did you try the DME yet?
Just reminds me how something on these old cars can 'test' good yet still be off. Did you try the DME yet?
10-26-2018, 06:28 PM
#51
Hey Jakob.. I finally cleaned out the AFM and did the "bend the contact to a new spot on the carbon strip" thing. Seems to have fixed my issue and generally improved throttle response. Big change!
Just reminds me how something on these old cars can 'test' good yet still be off. Did you try the DME yet?
Just reminds me how something on these old cars can 'test' good yet still be off. Did you try the DME yet?
Glad to hear that!
Unfortunately no... drove out to the other car and it wouldn’t start. Couldn’t even test the DME. I’ve been trying to find a way to show where the fault is, injectors or DME. My bleed down is fine by my symptoms are those of leaking injectors.
10-28-2018, 11:16 PM
#53
Dan if I pulled the injectors and they open and close, and the car passes bleed down test with flying colors, is it safe to say that they aren’t the issue? Everyone’s saying that leaking injectors will cause the pressure to drop too quick but my FP is dead on so I’m kinda confused if they could still be causing my over fueling.
11-04-2018, 08:16 PM
#56
Alright well I couldn’t do either because the battery is so dead the car won’t start. Oil was fouled anyways so I threw in a new set of plugs and changed the oil to save the bearings and keep testing. I thought I had done a proper job replacing the AOS seals but apparently I didn’t because oil just came pissing out of that bottom o ring as fast as I was filling it. Gonna revert to what my old engineering teacher told me. K I S S. Keep it simple stupid. That seal is obviously causing my rich issue or at least contributing to it. Oil leaking into airbox and no start issue showed up at about the same time so.
In anycase ill get it sorted and I’ll get back to everyone for anyone still following.
In anycase ill get it sorted and I’ll get back to everyone for anyone still following.
11-05-2018, 07:27 AM
#57
Drifting
I remember changing AOS seals and feeling like it doesn't fit. I didn't try to force it in; rather, I just put the AOS on an torque-wrenched the fastener. Seems to be holding up. It is a funny fitting o-ring
11-05-2018, 11:16 AM
#58
Three Wheelin'
Alright well I couldn’t do either because the battery is so dead the car won’t start. Oil was fouled anyways so I threw in a new set of plugs and changed the oil to save the bearings and keep testing. I thought I had done a proper job replacing the AOS seals but apparently I didn’t because oil just came pissing out of that bottom o ring as fast as I was filling it. Gonna revert to what my old engineering teacher told me. K I S S. Keep it simple stupid. That seal is obviously causing my rich issue or at least contributing to it. Oil leaking into airbox and no start issue showed up at about the same time so.
In anycase ill get it sorted and I’ll get back to everyone for anyone still following.
In anycase ill get it sorted and I’ll get back to everyone for anyone still following.
Oil leaking into the airbox? Well, I dunno about that. I guess you have to re-seal the AOS anyway, so start there and then circle back to the over-fueling issue.
11-05-2018, 11:36 AM
#59
Since I gotta pull the intake off again I’m just gonna knock out injectors to eliminate them. I can’t test them because he battery is so dead I have to jump the car to even get it to crank. When it runs it only runs on 2 or 3 cylinders even with the fresh oil it was so rich the smoke was fogging up my whole damn neighborhood lol. I changed plugs as well and when removing the old set they were soaking wet with gas.
Thanks for all the advice guys. I’ll get back to ya within the next few weeks.
11-07-2018, 12:43 AM
#60
Drifting
Regarding a leaking vacuum line, it will cause a lean issue up until a lean misfire happens. Then raw fuel dumps into the exhaust and tells the O2 sensor it’s running rich when it’s really lean. Then the DME will try to lean it out more creating more of a lean missfire issue. Also what injectors are you using? Stock 4.5 ohm injectors? If your using low impedance injectors you’ll want to use two 1 ohm resistors for each batch fire fuel injector harness. If you use low impedance injectors without resistors it will eventually overheat the DME drivers (there are only two) and basically destroy your DME. Not that this is your issue but you want to rule that out.