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Old 08-15-2015, 10:42 PM
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George D
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Default Aftermarket radiator fans.

I searched first. Neat post on using the Volvo single fan setup.

I "typically" have no issues with low speed cooling using the stock fans. It's been close to 110 degrees in Tucson "record setting" and I took the 951 up to Mt. Lemmon to hike in 70 degree weather. At low elevation in heavy traffic, below 35mph, the water temps were running hotter than I'd prefer, and oil temps were around 240 degrees.

I know it's a low speed air flow deal, and maybe I simply should drive something else in these extreme temperatures, but SPAL has 11" dual fans with a CFM of 2720, and these would be easily integrated. The stock fans are pulling air past a FMIC, then Griffiths condenser, then a Ron Davis Radiator.

Anyone had success with the SPAL or other setup?

Thanks,

G
Old 08-15-2015, 11:13 PM
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rlm328
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Mine is just wired for high speed only, I also live in a warm climate. I would assume the lower speed fan would be good for cold weather.
Old 08-16-2015, 12:52 AM
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George D
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Same setup. We were climbing from 2500' to 9000' in traffic going slow. This road is usually done in this car briskly early AM or in cooler climates. Added some fuel at low rpm's, and this helped, but with sufficient air flow, she'd run like a stock Honda going up those inclines. Once that hot, it's hard to cool things down without sustained high speed air flow.
Old 08-16-2015, 12:58 AM
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gpr8er
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FWIW I experimented with electric fans on my tow vehicle awhile back. OE was a belt driven fan with thermal clutch and full shroud .

I installed 2 of the largest electric fans that would fit with the integrated shroud. Noticeable difference in driveability and picked up a little gas mileage.

Didn't work. Inadequate cooling. Bottom line, is the factory shroud is very important.
Old 08-16-2015, 01:29 AM
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Tom M'Guinn

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Are you still running that Evans coolant?
Old 08-16-2015, 02:26 AM
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Paulyy
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I know this is completely another direction, But water sprayer on the IC/Rad?

I know it's more weight ect, but i know the WRXs use these. Misting water on a radiator, the vapours will pull heat right away.
Old 08-16-2015, 04:10 AM
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George D
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
Are you still running that Evans coolant?
No, just couldn't get used to higher H20 temps somehow "knowing" it's OK. Call me crazy, just didn't fit with my mantra.

G
Old 08-16-2015, 04:13 AM
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George D
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Originally Posted by Paulyy
I know this is completely another direction, But water sprayer on the IC/Rad?

I know it's more weight ect, but i know the WRXs use these. Misting water on a radiator, the vapours will pull heat right away.
Thanks Paul,

I'm looking for a constant remedy, not another reservoir likely going dry.
Old 08-16-2015, 09:57 AM
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When you say low speed air flow, you are talking about vehicle speed, not fan speed, correct?

My assumption is the fans would be in high speed mode, due to engine temp and likelihood you were running the a/c in those conditions.

So your concern is not a malfunction - you think it's working as designed, it is just ineffective?

I only ask be cause I'm chasing an overheating problem as well, but mine is certainly a malfunction. I have zero experience with aftermarket fans so can't answer your original question. Just wanted to throw out a couple thoughts since I am in a similar boat - you are sure nothing else is a factor - exterior debris clogging the radiator, shroud installed properly, etc? Any chance the radiator needs to be flushed? Cooling system and cap holding pressure?

No insult intended. I'm sure you know more about these cars than me.
Old 08-16-2015, 10:54 AM
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gruhsy
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Check my build post "finally finished cleaning engine bay" 2 Derale and the fan that Broadfoot sells. I like the Derale's much better they flow a ton more air.


Originally Posted by George D
I searched first. Neat post on using the Volvo single fan setup.

I "typically" have no issues with low speed cooling using the stock fans. It's been close to 110 degrees in Tucson "record setting" and I took the 951 up to Mt. Lemmon to hike in 70 degree weather. At low elevation in heavy traffic, below 35mph, the water temps were running hotter than I'd prefer, and oil temps were around 240 degrees.

I know it's a low speed air flow deal, and maybe I simply should drive something else in these extreme temperatures, but SPAL has 11" dual fans with a CFM of 2720, and these would be easily integrated. The stock fans are pulling air past a FMIC, then Griffiths condenser, then a Ron Davis Radiator.

Anyone had success with the SPAL or other setup?

Thanks,

G
Old 08-16-2015, 11:23 AM
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Jay Wellwood
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Originally Posted by Paulyy
I know this is completely another direction, But water sprayer on the IC/Rad?

I know it's more weight ect, but i know the WRXs use these. Misting water on a radiator, the vapours will pull heat right away.
Yep...good ol' latent heat of vaporization at work.
Old 08-16-2015, 12:21 PM
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Jay Wellwood
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I had searched on this back last Spring when I was looking for cooling related improvements/etc.

I ran across a post from TechnoDuck that I copied and pasted into my 968 3L Turbo Project notes document that I keep.

From my notes:

TechnoDuck:

Using a SPAL 30102120 which is the largest 16" I could fit. Total thickness is 3.4". They make even slimmer ones that are as thin as 2" but are very limited in CFM. At .5" of h20 they move less than 300cfm.

If you are trying to work around a waterpump or crank pulley fitting two smaller fans side by side is the way to go. In my application atleast the depth of a single fan is limited by the waterpump pulley. I found that two 11" paddle fans should move up to 30% more CFM through the core. This is because the paddle blades are so much more efficient at pulling air through a thick core.

Not sure what the dimensions are of the Wizard rad so you may have more room to work with. The radiator i have is from Renegade Hybrids which as i understand it is made by Ron Davis. The core is quite thick and i thankfully had just enough space between the fan and water pump pulley. I measured from the surface of the radiator core to the waterpump at 1.8". The spot where the fan would contact the pulley measured 1.3" from the core, so it fit with just 1/2" to spare.

As of right now the car will maintain temperature fine even in very hot summer traffic. Temps very slowly drop on my digital gauge. I think with extended idling in traffic (ambient 90+ *F) the fan would probably just never shut off. I can see it drop a tenth of a degree every few seconds so it would take a really long time. At speed the car cools no problem, 90 degree ambient temps it will maintain 160-170*F under all conditions. I have yet to see higher than 200*F even running on the track.


SPAL makes an even more powerful version of the fan i am using right now. Its rated at 3k CFM under no vacuum and has the same dimensions. Not sure what its rated for under real world conditions but i imagine better than what i have now as the motor is rated at 26 amps rather than 23 amps. I did not use this though as the fan motor is not sealed and is labeled as 'race only' and not for use with 1-hour continuous run time. Alot of older Ferrari guys use this fan though as its actually the same as the OEM.

Just remember to seal the fan shroud against the radiator core if you stick with a single fan. The best bet would be to make a shroud that covers the entire core.

If you guys want to go total overkill on your fans, something like this is probably the way to go. These pull 2800cfm at no vacuum and around 1400cfm at .7". This is almost double what the single 16" slim blade i use does. The only issue is this setup is very tall and the shroud would require modification to fit the coolant in and out ports on the radiator. Also the shroud is very tall in comparison so some custom fitment would be needed. It might be easier to just fit two 11" fans with a custom shroud.

Photos posted at - http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Tech...ec42d.jpg.html
Old 08-16-2015, 02:51 PM
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My monster Volvo fan creates a breeze behind the car when it is running. I think it gives me extra thrust while accelerating.

Temps over 100, ac running while in traffic, temp gauge doesn't go higher than mid range.

It was sort of a budget/hurried solution though, I'd like to eventually use a thinner fan setup, I only have about 1/2" between fan motor and PS pulley... so I will follow this thread.
Old 08-16-2015, 03:29 PM
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Tom M'Guinn

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Originally Posted by George D
No, just couldn't get used to higher H20 temps somehow "knowing" it's OK. Call me crazy, just didn't fit with my mantra.

G
I had the same feeling reading about the Evans. Since that's the case, you might start by simply reducing the concentration of coolant -- go to maybe 20% coolant and 80% water, and throw in a bottle of Water Wetter. Doing that will bring the gauge down by a needle width or two if you are currently running a thicker mix. You can also just force the fans to go on high sooner, assuming the high fans do the trick in your heat.
Old 08-16-2015, 04:02 PM
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George D
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
I had the same feeling reading about the Evans. Since that's the case, you might start by simply reducing the concentration of coolant -- go to maybe 20% coolant and 80% water, and throw in a bottle of Water Wetter. Doing that will bring the gauge down by a needle width or two if you are currently running a thicker mix. You can also just force the fans to go on high sooner, assuming the high fans do the trick in your heat.
Hey Tom,

Using distilled water and Redline water wetter. I'm going to add about .5 gallons of OAT coolant for additional lubrication.


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