Gruhsy's revival of RAGE2's old car
Well the final dissasembly of RAGE2's broken engine is done.
Will be posting pics as I go. Hopefully I will have time for some photos of the engine tonight. It turns out #4 connecting rod snapped in half. The rods were 944 connecting rods. Wrong rods to use considering the power that was posted. The engine has 106mm pistons and the rods were not RARST rods either. Will have pics of the snapped rod. It is also twisted. The crank turned out to be fine and none of the rod bearings or crank bearings were damaged....I will still use new bearings The block, oil pan, 1 pickup tube, 1 piston and 1 rod are the only damaged parts. The engine was also balance shaft delete. |
Wow, RAGE2 was a long long time ago. Glad to see the car is still around!
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10 Attachment(s)
pics of pistons and rods
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who did that built? those are na rods so sad
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Originally Posted by lart951
(Post 12148218)
who did that built? those are na rods so sad
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I am familiar with a feeling like that AND the sound. Sounds like $hit too.
Then the rod bust the block, then the oil hits the crossover pipe, then ignites, and then your rear view and side mirrors fill with orange flames: Note to Self - After your A$$hole releases you from the drivers seat, get the hell out of the car! |
Originally Posted by gruhsy
(Post 12146516)
Well the final dissasembly of RAGE2's broken engine is done.
Will have pics of the snapped rod. It is also twisted. The good news is 3 pistons are good. They are JE. If I can find a replacent 4th piston I may have a 106mm offset grind motor???? The crank turned out to be fine and none of the rod bearings or crank bearings were damaged....I will still use new bearings The block, oil pan, 1 pickup tube, 1 piston and 1 rod are the only damaged parts. . |
Somewhere on here there are a few descriptions about the car on old posts.
Just to be clear I bought the car with the blown motor. I picked up the car from Soloracer. I will be fixing it properly. It was a local shop that build the car. I will have more pics of destruction tonight. The crank is straight I am going to be building 2 motors.....basically because I can.....it will however be a slow process, especially with the low dollar right now. |
I pack a 20lb bottle in my car and a couple 5's
Originally Posted by Ski
(Post 12148315)
I am familiar with a feeling like that AND the sound. Sounds like $hit too.
Then the rod bust the block, then the oil hits the crossover pipe, then ignites, and then your rear view and side mirrors fill with orange flames: Note to Self - After your A$$hole releases you from the drivers seat, get the hell out of the car! |
nothing some jb weld couldn't fix.
i bet that made a biblical noise when the rod went. |
These rods are not as weak as everybody thinks, this car probably pushed some serious power.
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Post on here with race fuel was 461hp
Over the 400hp recommended.......common post here I would also guess that a 106mm piston is more stress than a 101mm
Originally Posted by Voith
(Post 12148696)
These rods are not as weak as everybody thinks, this car probably pushed some serious power.
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Just scrap the Pistons. If you are doing an offset you'll need new anyway.
Is the block toast? Are you doing a sleeved block? 2.5 or 3.0? |
Thanks Sid I will take your advice on that. I am guessing you mean because they won't work for an offset grind. Would they still be good for a normal build or do you recommend scraping them all together? The 3 pistons appear to be completely undamaged along with the rods....would not use rods however.
The block and crank girdle are toast. You can see right from one side to the other on piston 4. Amazing to me is that the rod bearing even on the broken rod is completely undamaged. I assumed a bearing seized until I took apart the engine. I have the original 40000km block from my other car, it will be a sleeved 2.5L. I'm thinking of using the same pistons Shawn used. Actually since you asked I have a question for you. Will 4.040 or 4.060 pistons work with the sleeves you and Shawn chose, cylinder wall thickness related? I searched but have not found an answer. I have 3 2.5L cranks and 3 cylinder heads and 2 cam towers to choose from. Probably going to use the Michael Mount head for the first engine. At some point I will pick up a second block but that's last on the list and will most likely be a 16V head from MM.
Originally Posted by blown 944
(Post 12150393)
Just scrap the Pistons. If you are doing an offset you'll need new anyway.
Is the block toast? Are you doing a sleeved block? 2.5 or 3.0? |
Rage... a blast from the past. There is probably some video of him doing burnouts and donuts with that car. Did the car still have the Simple Digital management system on it? Some of the rods look bent.
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