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Racers Edge Trailing Arm Bolt

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Old 02-02-2015, 12:48 PM
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chrenan
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Default Racers Edge Trailing Arm Bolt

Just want to confirm this looks normal. I've cleaned the threads with a tap, removed all debris, the bolt threads in nicely by hand. At this point it stops, if I apply the required 150 ft/lbs I should see these to surfaces mate up nicely, correct? The base of the bolt increases in diameter at the end, but the hole does not, will the hole deform around the bolt? Is that the idea? I just don't want to Gorilla this thing if something isn't correct.



Last edited by chrenan; 02-02-2015 at 01:32 PM.
Old 02-02-2015, 12:57 PM
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MM951
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I've had an issue with this. Apparently the thread depths are inconsistent in the trailing arms. After breaking two lower shock mounts (Ground Control) and buying racers edge, I went over to Van's for a hand in removing the broken remains and double checking the install of the RE mounts when we noticed that I had a smaller gap than you when the bolt was torqued - obviously this won't work and you will need to modify the bolt or tap further into the trailing arm.. unfortunately, this was years ago and I forgot what we ended up doing.

Long story short, don't run it like that.
Old 02-02-2015, 01:06 PM
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V2Rocket
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any reason you couldn't just add a big washer?
Old 02-02-2015, 01:32 PM
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chrenan
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Originally Posted by MM951
Long story short, don't run it like that.
Just to be clear, this has not be torqued down. This is the point where I can no longer finger tighten the bolt anymore. Having measured the hole and the bolt, there is thread depth for the bolt. However, the widening of the shank (inside the red boxes in the picture) is what is stopping it from going further, will 150ft/lbs solve this problem?

Originally Posted by V2Rocket_aka944
any reason you couldn't just add a big washer?
I added a big washer when I used this bolt for my rear coil overs as helpers. I am currently doing a torsion bar delete so this bolt will now hold the weight of the car. Everything I've read says this bolt should be run without a washer and be tight and flush against the trailing arm to avoid breaking.
Old 02-02-2015, 03:32 PM
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KevinGross
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I don't see a problem with using a large washer. The need is to widen the load-bearing area between the bolt and trailing arm. Alternatively, tap the trailing arm bore a few millimeters more.
Old 02-02-2015, 03:34 PM
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chrenan
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Originally Posted by KevinGross
Alternatively, tap the trailing arm bore a few millimeters more.
Hadn't considered that, also a good thought.
Old 02-02-2015, 06:58 PM
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Rob in Oz
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Or - you could grind a few mm off the end of the bolt... making sure you haven't burred the threads.
Old 02-02-2015, 09:39 PM
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chrenan
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Well, it turns out it was my own forgetfulness that led to the confusion. When I bought these years ago I got the ground control version which are supposed to use a washer according to the instructions I had them email me this afternoon when I remembered. These are not the racers edge version of the bolt. Washer fitted and that takes up the space. Old age is a hell of a thing.
Old 02-02-2015, 11:11 PM
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Black51
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FWIW Chrenan, I put in some Racer's Edge bolts this summer and iirc, they were flush against the trailing arm.
Old 02-03-2015, 12:36 AM
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chrenan
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Originally Posted by Black51
FWIW Chrenan, I put in some Racer's Edge bolts this summer and iirc, they were flush against the trailing arm.
Thanks Sam, it's definitely the racers edge version that had me thinking that no washers were needed for a flush fit.
Old 02-06-2015, 04:20 PM
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doabarrelroll
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Mine went in flush. You have to make sure that they go in dead straight so not strip the threads though.



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