User 52121

I emailed Lart and never heard back so I'm assuming this is just too strange of a part for him to pull.

I have an issue with the passenger power window working intermittently. Last fall I pulled the door panel off (expecting to find a broken wire or disconnected plug inside), started tracing wires, and actually followed the problem all the way back to the *driver's* door. Apparently power for BOTH windows first enters the driver's door, THEN passes out the door, along the firewall, over and into the passenger door. I have solid continuity in the entire harness from the passenger door back to the driver's door, but the connection breaks between the switch for the passenger power window and the harness connection at the firewall, inside the driver's door.

My parts request is this: anybody parting out a car, willing to extract for me an intact driver's door harness? Looking for a complete harness - all the connectors inside the door, etc., wiring that passes into the car, up to the 16(?) way connector up near the top of the clutch pedal.

grenadiers

Are you sure the problem isn't with either or both of the passenger door window switches? I had this problem recently with my '88 924S. The copper connections inside the switch are typically the source of intermittent operation. Bending the copper 'rockers' to make contact along with sanding the 'points' all help. And don't forget the 'seat' of the rocker, I believe that's where the juice arrives. I have mine to the point that I can operate the passenger window by pressing both passenger window switches simultaneously! I have long arms! It's a track car, so don't care if it's perfect. I store the car outside, and need the windows for when it rains.

User 52121

I'm positive. I tested the switches individually, they work fine. I don't have 12v coming into the passenger door. I traced the wiring back to the driver's door.

From Clark's: http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/elect-20.htm

I lose continuity between pin 1 on the driver's side passenger door switch and pin 12 of the driver's door connector (or 2 on the switch and 11 on the connector... I can't remember which).

darek_u

Jim if you want to go through the pain of removing the old harness and putting in new one - why not rebuild your harness? I did few of these harnesses and it is not difficult at all. The biggest pain is to extract the harness, especially plugs at the firewall and then along left side. You have to rip off the sound deadening and it is not going to come back - the black part of it is going to break into 1000 pieces but it is a good chance to replace it with commercially available decent sound absorber.
Most door harnesses got from parts cars will have connectors cut off - it is much easier that way to go through the hole in the door. With patience and with top caps of connectors removed you can get them intact through that hole.
With the harness out of the door it takes 15 mins to replace the cable itself - remove the old mesh tape from the end of the harness, cut the wire in question at the switch side, solder together with new one and pull. Done.
Bit of a long description, sorry, I could do it shorter. I bet your problem is in the harness section that goes through the door opening, cable is chaffing on the sharp edge or just broke from too many cycles of open/close. IF your connectors and switches are ok...

lee101315

+1

That is a totally legitimate way to repair your door harness. By the way, I have a door harness but someone cut the big connector off. Its yours for free if you can use it.

User 52121

Thanks, I just might do that. I'm out of town this weekend but will probably start tearing into it next weekend.

Advantage of having a second harness on hand is I can build a fresh one on the bench with the spare as a template. Then if I have to F up the original taking it out then I have a spare.