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cost to repair a battery tray

Old 11-13-2014, 05:22 PM
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Cory9584
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Default cost to repair a battery tray

I just bought an 88 turbo with a hole in the battery tray, The battery tray looks fine with the exception of a few small holes right where the tray meets the firewall. What would it run approximately to have it cut out and weld a new piece in? I bought the car knowing there was a leak and a bad computer, but it was too good a deal to pass up.
Old 11-13-2014, 06:07 PM
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Grandpa#3
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Hi Cory, Use a wire brush on your drill to clean off the rusted area good and fiberglass over the old rusted area. Some people have cleaned and painted the battery area with Truck Bed Liner. Welding in that area may burn wiring for the DME.

Cheers,
Larry
Old 11-14-2014, 10:36 AM
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divil
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Originally Posted by Cory9584
I just bought an 88 turbo with a hole in the battery tray, The battery tray looks fine with the exception of a few small holes right where the tray meets the firewall. What would it run approximately to have it cut out and weld a new piece in? I bought the car knowing there was a leak and a bad computer, but it was too good a deal to pass up.
The cost to me was approximately $1100 to have the metal work and finishing done. That was for a better than factory finish though. I supplied 2 good battery trays cut from donor cars, and I did a lot of prep work. I removed the dash to get access to everything underneath the tray, the ABS lines form the firewall/wheelarch area, and various other bits and pieces that would have been in the way or gotten damaged. The shop I used was a classic car restore place. They cut out the whole tray with a plasma cutter, trimmed, fitted and welded the new one perfectly, gave it a rubberized coating, then painted it in the factory colour (both sides).

I documented my experience with this here - I had several threads on rennlist about it too. (EDIT: I found some more pics of my car on the website of the guy that did the work, including one showing the car with the old tray cut out)

It can be done without any damage to the wiring or anything else, but you have to be prepared to spend a lot of time removing things. I didn't have to remove the main wiring harness from the firewall - but the guy said if it had been much worse it probably would have been an engine-out job.

I highly recommend doing it this way. Do it properly once, forget about it forever. If you do anything else you will always have to worry about leaks.

Last edited by divil; 11-14-2014 at 11:00 AM.
Old 11-14-2014, 10:44 AM
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I would not suggest doing a fiber glass band aid. To do it right, you have to re-weld metal. This can be done without dash removal but one has to be very careful as there are plenty of cables under the panel. You need a competent welder to perform this. To play it safe, you can spend the extra 15-20 hrs of dash removal and all other bits.
Old 11-14-2014, 11:58 AM
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1100 isn't bad, mine isn't half as bad as the one in the pictures so it maybe even less. Does anybody know a good body guy in north jersey or nearby? Thanks
Old 11-14-2014, 01:14 PM
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When I bought my car it had a few pinholes near the firewall (and some other thin spots). I used some POR21 epoxy putty and formed a thin layer that was painted over w/ rattle can silver. Looks fine 15 years later and no leaks. Total cost (at the time ~$15).

Last edited by jerome951; 11-17-2014 at 08:33 AM. Reason: specified putty, not epoxy paint
Old 11-14-2014, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jerome951
When I bought my car it had a few pinholes near the firewall (and some other thin spots). I used some POR21 epoxy and formed a thin layer that was painted over w/ rattle can silver. Looks fine 15 years later and no leaks. Total cost (at the time ~$15).
Yeah, I had a early non turbo with that issue, passenger floor would get soaked. I wire bushed the battery tray and cleaned it well. I used rust stopper, maybe 4 treatments of it, then used truck spay bed liner for a few coats then painted it red. Looked great, stopped all leaks for 6 years and was still going strong when I sold it. I used the bed liner stuff on my current 951, because some of the paint was gone and it had minor surface rust. Strictly preventative measures but I know in future years it would have gotten worse. Luckily I got it in time.

I'd say evaluate how bad yours is. If its too bad, weld it, if it's minor then there's a million cheap hard sealers that work just as good. Take pictures, battery out and well help you out
Old 11-17-2014, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by jerome951
When I bought my car it had a few pinholes near the firewall (and some other thin spots). I used some POR21 epoxy and formed a thin layer that was painted over w/ rattle can silver. Looks fine 15 years later and no leaks. Total cost (at the time ~$15).
+1

On my '84 I had lots of pinholes and a few holes that were slightly larger. I used Por15 PorPatch (after cleaning all the rust off with a wire wheel).

And.... don't forget to install a battery vent tube to keep that battery acid away from the sheet metal. Run the tube down to the ground.
Old 11-17-2014, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by FRporscheman
+1

On my '84 I had lots of pinholes and a few holes that were slightly larger. I used Por15 PorPatch (after cleaning all the rust off with a wire wheel).

And.... don't forget to install a battery vent tube to keep that battery acid away from the sheet metal. Run the tube down to the ground.
Oops. Need to correct my statement. I used POR21's epoxy putty to cover the area then rattle can paint.

The putty also helps by raising that area so water doesn't collect there any longer.
Old 11-17-2014, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jerome951
Oops. Need to correct my statement. I used POR21's epoxy putty to cover the area then rattle can paint.

The putty also helps by raising that area so water doesn't collect there any longer.
I know you used a different product than I did, I was just giving a +1 to the fact that pinholes can be fixed inexpensively. I guess I can also give a +1 to POR products in general. I'll have to try that POR21 epoxy putty.
Old 11-17-2014, 05:55 PM
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The hole I have is about the size of a quarter, I'm just going to get it welded and forget about it. Does anybody have any recommendations for a good body guy around north nj?
Old 11-17-2014, 08:23 PM
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just carbon fiber it, thats what I did, its super simple and kinda looks cool.

all you need is one square of carbon and one square of glass just lay it in there and wet it with resin, and for about $40 youre done and dont have to worry about it in the future.
Old 11-18-2014, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Cory9584
1100 isn't bad, mine isn't half as bad as the one in the pictures so it maybe even less. Does anybody know a good body guy in north jersey or nearby? Thanks
You are in luck. I had a similar issue in my can and the shop is in northern NJ. PM me and I can point you to the place.
Old 11-18-2014, 10:30 AM
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One other thing: does your car have airbags? Because the passenger airbag sensor is pretty close to the battery tray/firewall area. It's hidden away up there in the corner. I have had mine disconnected since I had this work done. If I was going to reconnect them, I'd probably replace that sensor, what with all the welding and plasma cutting going on in that area.
Old 11-18-2014, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by divil
One other thing: does your car have airbags? Because the passenger airbag sensor is pretty close to the battery tray/firewall area. It's hidden away up there in the corner. I have had mine disconnected since I had this work done. If I was going to reconnect them, I'd probably replace that sensor, what with all the welding and plasma cutting going on in that area.
With battery removal, this should not be an issue. Once completed, the airbag can be reconnected.

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