MarkRobinson

I'm on the fence: I have a great pair of Speedline wheels with new 245/35-18 tires mounted on the front: will know tonight how it sets normally

Test-fit last night, did not put weight on the non-air'd tire (don't ask), but it appears the wheel/tire's outer edge is about 3/8" past the fender.

Will this tuck in with load enough to clear the tire?

Car has stock alignment, wondering if adding 1/2 degree negative camber would help: suggestions?

Mark

lee101315

It should tuck, just max out the camber. Dont forget to correct toe.

MarkRobinson

I don't want to max out the camber so much that it chews up my pricey 245/35-18 street tires on my street car. I can see 1 degree or maybe 1.5.

How much camber can typically be had via strut adjustments alone? (Not a track car so I don't have camber plates)

Mark

PorscheG96

I don't think it will clear. The camber eccentric on the front struts is about halfway up the wheel, so based on a quick calculation it would take 1.66 degrees of static negative camber [in addition to your current setting] to POSSIBLY clear the fender. I say possibly because this doesn't take into account your fender thickness, fender gap to top of tire or geometry change under load.

mclarenno9

I have KLA strut mounts (i.e. not camber plates) and am currently at about 2.1 degrees negative camber with a little bit more that I could go. BUT, my car is lowered somewhat (-1.5"...?), so that will add some negative camber as well.

You have to remember that the tire is actually pivoting about the ball joint. So if you assume a tire that's 25" and the ball joint is about 6" off the ground, then you would need roughly 1.1 degrees additional to be flush.

Honestly 3/8" isn't much at all... I doubt you will have any issues. My tire was sticking about 3/4" proud before I added some camber (to stock alignment). I wouldn't want to go much more though...

And yes, check toe after!

Tsmith84

Can you support the car as far out on the lower control arm as possible to load the suspension with the "flat" tire/wheel mounted? And re-measure. Also, checking how the strut is currently positioned on the knuckle will help with knowing if there's much room for a camber adjustment. Camber alone is not what kills tires. It's camber that has an incorrect toe adjustment. Think of it as a tire rolling 1 or 2 degrees tilted vs a tire that is scrubbing away at that angle.

lee101315

Exactly. I run -3°camber and zero toe up front, and my tires don't get chewed up anymore.

Willard Bridgham 3

I have a silver rose and 245 45 17 on the front at stock camber with no rubbing.

Late offset fikses.

mclarenno9

It will depend heavily on the offset of the wheel. The OP's wheels are likely a lower ET (effective) than stock.

kem

Is there a resource/reference on what width+offset+tire width will fit on these cars (early offset in particular).

I want to eventually rebarrel my BBS RS's and I could make them almost any width and offset, would love to do a 8.5 in the front and 10 in the back. Would love to know what offsets work at similar sizes.

MarkRobinson

Well my suspension is off: Driver's front tucks about 1/4", pass sticks out about 1/4". :/ I'll keep the car high until I pull the engine for the Andial kit & will adjust everything then. Looks great though.