raleighBahn

Hey folks,

Have the manifold pulled off. Plan to clean the grounds on the back of the block, check wiring, refresh vacuum, send off injectors, replace temp sensors, check turbo water pump thermostat, do some water lines. What else?

Any good way to eliminate the big metal control line altogether? I probably will do some sort of EBC and can at least eliminate the cycling valve. Is it better to keep the metal control line in place for the non-cycling valve connections?

I would like to have my shop do a full fabspeed exhaust later this year. Since I have the manifold off, does it make sense for me to go ahead and do the turbo outlet pipe (and just mate it to existing stock exhaust until later)? Is this piece of it manageable in the garage? Front wheels are on my race ramps so I have access from below too.

mwc951

Are those OEM fuel lines???!!!!

raleighBahn

Maybe OEM, but replaced a couple of years ago. I have new ones on the side, doing that too (thanks for reminder). Not my dd, so taking my time.

black944 turbo

The exhaust is a garage job. You do not need the manifold off to do this either unless you are doing a down pipe. I kept the metal line on my car as well as the cycling valve even though it is bypassed.

ehall

The really scary fuel line is the small curved one on the front of the rail. Change that one if you haven't already. If you want to get rid of the metal pipe, you have to go to a manual boost controller. That lets you remove the cycling valve and other associated hoses, letting you run a hose from the AOS to the Jboot directly. The best way to deal with turbo piping is to remove the turbo. It's a big job, but certainly not a job that you can't do right where you are. I'm doing it in a very small garage, on jack stands.

Cyberpunky

Personally I kept them so if I ever want to go back to stock I can

NM'87 951

My thready link below has a post about what to do with the metal portion of the venturi system. You can keep parts or remove all of it. Lindsey sells AOS kit and Venturi delete kit that replaces all those hoses.

Looks pretty nice under there.

ekoz

I removed all the metal and replaced with Lindsey stuff. Later I had to remove the ICV and was able to do it without removing the manifold. Not sure you can do this the metal lines in there. Also it just cleans things up and eliminates potential leaks

raleighBahn

Thanks for all of the replies - very helpful. So I have found one part of the engine to be not so clean... looks like the AOS under the CV (yes one arm is broken, hence the replace)? If it is AOS seals, I understand turbo needs to be pulled.

I do not have dripping under the car and think it has been this way for quite a while (as I have reached under manifold before).

black944 turbo

That hose on top is common to split and cause that kind of issue.

raleighBahn

Thanks! Will start pulling it apart and see what I'm dealing with.

raleighBahn

I've been cleaning engine grounds and continuing to unearth some things. When cleaning the grounds where the battery strap ties in, have found pretty significant corrosion on the cable as pictured. I've peeled back the strap to see how far it goes - it appears to keep going. Any thoughts on how to resolve?

raleighBahn

Well, at long last the turbo, downpipe, and heatshields all out of the way. Time to jump on the AOS seals - can see a little oil pool at the bottom. As I've got the turbo off, going to replace the downpipe with the Fabspeed SS version. Plan to do the full fabspeed next year.