installed delrin hatch pin seats today
#16
I have done all three fixes for back there:
-I had the hatch "re-laminated." A local window/glass repair shop did it for me. Weather-tested it in a car wash, no leaks but I think the alignment is off a smidge.
-Installed this kit.
-I also installed a new hatch seal.
With the factory sunroof in (I say this for a reason) I hear no noise from back there anymore. It's wonderful. The saratoga roof gives you 0 noise attenuation, and also sits a little higher than it should. So you'll have some noise... but not alot. (That has also been "weather-tested"... no leaks)
-I had the hatch "re-laminated." A local window/glass repair shop did it for me. Weather-tested it in a car wash, no leaks but I think the alignment is off a smidge.
-Installed this kit.
-I also installed a new hatch seal.
With the factory sunroof in (I say this for a reason) I hear no noise from back there anymore. It's wonderful. The saratoga roof gives you 0 noise attenuation, and also sits a little higher than it should. So you'll have some noise... but not alot. (That has also been "weather-tested"... no leaks)
#18
#19
Burning Brakes
Mine didn't either. But I have discovered that the hatch doesn't seal around the top corners. I don't know if that was a installation mistake on my part or what. But, it's something I need to investigate further.
#20
Rennlist Member
This all reminds me, I really need to do a write up on the hatch relamination procedure. I've done three now using 3M urethane glass products and none of them leak a drop. It isn't very hard, I always cringe whenever I see a guy talking about spending 500-1000 on a replacement hatch that is just as old as the one that delaminated.
#21
Rennlist Member
I ordered a set when I saw this post, as my hatch was creaking over curbs, etc. The creak is now all gone -- yippee! Getting the latches out to install these bushings was easier than expected -- I can pull one out in about 1 minute now (no exaggeration) after doing it many times. I ended up filing the delrin bushings some as shown in the video so the pin would fit all the way in and the latch. I concluded filing was needed after removing both the latch and pin from the car and confirming the pin just didn't have enough room for the latch to shut around it -- no amount of alignment/adjusting was going to help. After filing the delrin down a bit, it latched like a champ, and no creaking anymore!
I also put the pin in my drill (lightly so as not to screw up the threads) and cleaned/smoothed/de-rusted it with emory paper.
I also put the pin in my drill (lightly so as not to screw up the threads) and cleaned/smoothed/de-rusted it with emory paper.
#22
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
anybody else notice even closing the hatch sounds more..solid..now?
i put mine in yesterday and it took a little while to align the pins (also because i swapped hatches yesterday) but it works nicely now. don't drive very often so might be a while before i get real review in but i am pleased so far.
i put mine in yesterday and it took a little while to align the pins (also because i swapped hatches yesterday) but it works nicely now. don't drive very often so might be a while before i get real review in but i am pleased so far.
#23
This all reminds me, I really need to do a write up on the hatch relamination procedure. I've done three now using 3M urethane glass products and none of them leak a drop. It isn't very hard, I always cringe whenever I see a guy talking about spending 500-1000 on a replacement hatch that is just as old as the one that delaminated.
#25
Instructor
Ordered those pin seats too, will see how these work out for me. Also have to relaminate rear hatch window, getting water in drunk somewhere from hatch pin lock area right side.
#26
Rennlist Member
Can someone describe what the hatch delamination looks like - or better yet have a picture?. I think mine has started to delaminate as well. Had the windows tinted last year and it looked worse afterwards, I guess because of all the pressure they put on the glass.
#27
Rennlist Member
You can tell by water getting on the underside of the glass when you wash your car. If you are really lucky you can see the edge of the glass under the top of the frame. It is not subtle.
#29
Rennlist Member
I ordered a set when I saw this post, as my hatch was creaking over curbs, etc. The creak is now all gone -- yippee! Getting the latches out to install these bushings was easier than expected -- I can pull one out in about 1 minute now (no exaggeration) after doing it many times. I ended up filing the delrin bushings some as shown in the video so the pin would fit all the way in and the latch. I concluded filing was needed after removing both the latch and pin from the car and confirming the pin just didn't have enough room for the latch to shut around it -- no amount of alignment/adjusting was going to help. After filing the delrin down a bit, it latched like a champ, and no creaking anymore!
I also put the pin in my drill (lightly so as not to screw up the threads) and cleaned/smoothed/de-rusted it with emory paper.
I also put the pin in my drill (lightly so as not to screw up the threads) and cleaned/smoothed/de-rusted it with emory paper.
#30
Rennlist Member
I also decided to change out the latches and pins with OEM replacements. My hatch had stopped opening entirely.
I released the hatch from inside the car and actually found that the rod for the right latch had come out of the retainer in the lever at the center of the car. Maybe that pin was adjusted too short. The rubber or plastic in the latches was basically goo.
Pelican Parts has a good tutorial on how to disconnect the rods from the latches here. You would have to follow this to get the latches out.
I had ordered new pins (they call them strikers). My old ones were the nice stainless steel replacements sharky47 used to offer, and I wish I had left them alone. The OEM pins are not as nice. I had to use a vice grip to get them out so they got somewhat trashed. I also had to work the threads in and out with PB Blaster then oil to get them to work easily.
Good advice to leave the pins a little long and to close the hatch with the latches a little loose (then tighten from the inside) so they self-align.
I don't know if my hatch will be completely silent, but it certainly opens and closes much nicer.
I released the hatch from inside the car and actually found that the rod for the right latch had come out of the retainer in the lever at the center of the car. Maybe that pin was adjusted too short. The rubber or plastic in the latches was basically goo.
Pelican Parts has a good tutorial on how to disconnect the rods from the latches here. You would have to follow this to get the latches out.
I had ordered new pins (they call them strikers). My old ones were the nice stainless steel replacements sharky47 used to offer, and I wish I had left them alone. The OEM pins are not as nice. I had to use a vice grip to get them out so they got somewhat trashed. I also had to work the threads in and out with PB Blaster then oil to get them to work easily.
Good advice to leave the pins a little long and to close the hatch with the latches a little loose (then tighten from the inside) so they self-align.
I don't know if my hatch will be completely silent, but it certainly opens and closes much nicer.