ehall

I've had the stock bosch alt only last 20k. These have a lot more open housing.

topley

Mine seems to be putting out more than the old alternator so I think in a combo street/track it would do great.

URG8RB8

If you order the plug and play HO one I set up with the guy on EBay it is nearly double the output of the stock POS.

Cloud9...68

That's good to know - thanks. I'll have to add this to my list of things to do. I've pulled all the AC components out of my car except the compressor, as I was balking at the $200 for the AC delete bracket from Lindsey. But it looks like I can get a lighter, smaller, and possibly even better alternator for a lot less than the bracket. Thanks for the info.

lejams

I ordered one today. Need to replace the alternator due to a high voltage problem. I just installed the Ice Shark Light kit that I bought long ago new, but the regulator must be bad. Blew out the low and high beams and reading 18 volts across the new battery. Looking forward to some space down in there.

lejams

So I received the Nissan Quest Alternator today. Looks good and looking forward to getting it installed. I haven't removed the one from the car yet, but I have a spare oem alternator and bracket to use for comparison to map out the swap. I suppose the brackets can all very some, but when I lay both the Nissan and factory alternators face gown on the pulleys, it looks like the Nissan needs to shift forward only about 3mm. or at most 4mm.

I've read and re-read the posts about doing this and if I have it right, some modify only the bracket and some modify the ears on the alternator. Which ever is done, it looks like a simple thing to do for a machinist with the right tools, one of which I'll take it to tomorrow. Since there is more bracket material to spare vs. material on the alternator ears, I think this is how I'll go. I might have missed this in the posts, but basically whatever thickness of material that is removed on one side of the bracket, the same will need to be added on the other side in a form of washers, or something fabricated to fill the gap, right?

Looking at the bracket and the new alternator, it's difficult to see why the relief slot had to be cut. Can anyone explain this? The Nissan seems to cradle in there fairly snug. Maybe I'll understand better once I remove mine from the car and begin the install, or is it not necessary for all Nissan alternators?

Also, I did have the 6 rib pulley added by the seller, which thanks for this arrangement because it makes ordering with the right pulley very convenient. Seller ships fast too. I did notice that the 6 rib pulley the seller sends installed is approx. 1/8" larger in diameter. Did anyone else note this? It would under-drive the alternator compared to the oem, but maybe this is appropriate for the Nissan?

Thanks for everyone's feed back on doing this. Makes it easier for the next person for sure.

Tiger03447

Has anyone checked out the alternator for a Honda FIT? It is the small Nippendenso unit that is about the size of a medium grapefruit. I think this is the one's that the race guys all use...I will try to get the #'s for the Nissan Quest unit and see if they are the same one. What year Quest were they using the alternator from? Thks.

ehall

You'll have to check me on this, or someone else can chime in, but as I recall, the Nissan Alt cranks out consistently more power than the OEM alt, so the slightly wider pulley should be no issue.

ehall

I don't know off hand, but I believe that info is in some of the first few posts on this thread.

Tom M'Guinn

Getting ready to install the 6-rib ebay Nissan alternator (finally). One question: if I grind down the alternator's mounting ear as per post 32, is there still something I need to grind on the motor's alternator bracket? If so, anyone have a picture? Thanks!

azbanks

I ground down a big grove in the bracket and didn't do much to the alternator ear. I can get a picture posted tomorrow.

mahoney944

I cut my bracket big, your really can't weaken it due to how it's made. It also lets more air in

Mikes3.0cabturbo

Wondering what sort of voltage others are getting from their conversion, mine runs quite high, 14.3 - 14.8v, even on idle is 14.+

thanks
mike

Tom M'Guinn

For those who ground down the alternator's mounting ear themselves, what tool did you use to mill it, and did you take the housing apart or grind it as an assembled unit?

mahoney944

I used a 4.5 in dewalt grinder and covered the alt with a rag as I ground down the tabs. The alternator doesn't really get alot taken off. Just take your time...measure twice cut once. I placed my old and new alt on a flat table standing on their pullies and positioned the corresponding tabs together and marked the stock with a marker.