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944 Turbo Nissan Alternator mod (reposted and to the point)

 
Old 09-02-2014, 05:56 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by bumflick View Post
before
Place them both pulley down on a flat table. Then youll be able too tell exactly how close they are and where you need to grind
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Old 09-02-2014, 06:05 PM
  #32  
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after



after grinding <br/>note the pulleys line up
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Old 09-02-2014, 08:01 PM
  #33  
Paul Waterloo
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Excellent pictures!

Considering I just turned the throwout bearing washer around last weekend at a mere 17 hours of labor....I'm going to tackle this project later. Take some pictures when you are done, if you can measure the thickness of the forward tab before you start, and then again after it fits correctly, we'll be able to figure out how much to remove....would be very helpful for me.

Thanks!
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Old 09-08-2014, 07:30 PM
  #34  
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Does this work on N/A's? And if we have the ebay seller put on the 6 rib pulley, do we maintain stock belt length?
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Old 09-08-2014, 08:16 PM
  #35  
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I've read something about using a small Nissan Sentra alternator, but I can't find any info on it. For the race car, need half the amperage of a stock car. Anyone have any idea what the deal is?
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Old 09-08-2014, 10:44 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by snb13 View Post
Does this work on N/A's? And if we have the ebay seller put on the 6 rib pulley, do we maintain stock belt length?
Yes stock belt will work
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Old 09-20-2014, 11:54 PM
  #37  
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Ok, finally completed this project. I kept having to trim the bolt holes and the ears get it to fit. Just reassembled all the cooling and air tubing that bad to be removed to get to the alternator. Refilled the radiator, connected the battery, and cranked it. It started and ran, but zero volts on the dash gauge.

Getting bit of belt squeal when I revved it, so adjusted the AC tensioner, but now I have the battery on a trickle charge before I try again in the morning. I will test the voltage at the battery as well.

For those that have done this mod - how did you wire it up? Did your stock volt meter work?

Thanks
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Old 09-21-2014, 11:04 AM
  #38  
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Wiring diagram

https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...500x500q85.jpg

Buy this connector to make the wiring easy and professional looking

http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoc1900.aspx

Last edited by mahoney944; 09-21-2014 at 11:52 AM.
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Old 09-21-2014, 02:00 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by mahoney944 View Post
Wiring diagram

https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...500x500q85.jpg

Buy this connector to make the wiring easy and professional looking

http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoc1900.aspx
The wiring diagram is correct here tho I personally would recommend running a wire from the battery to the alternator instead of the little "jumper". Noticed more consistent and higher voltage on the dash gauge that way.
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Old 09-21-2014, 05:00 PM
  #40  
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Thanks guys. That is how I wired it up, so something may have come loose.

I have ordered the factory connector, so that is on the way. When you say run a wire from the battery to the alternator, you mean from the positive terminal to middle tab (the on that currently has the jumper running to the big bolt where the main wire goes?
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Old 09-21-2014, 06:32 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by bumflick View Post
Thanks guys. That is how I wired it up, so something may have come loose.

I have ordered the factory connector, so that is on the way. When you say run a wire from the battery to the alternator, you mean from the positive terminal to middle tab (the on that currently has the jumper running to the big bolt where the main wire goes?
Yes instead of taking that wire and jumping it to the main terminal on the alternator, run it to the positive terminal on the battery. Personally I think the jumper works well enough, even after a 3 hour drive the voltage stayed up at 13.8 to 14.2 well above the 12 volts it needs. The design of the alternator is meant to have that wire connected to the terminal, however the majority of people who have done the mod use the jumper method and have great results at normal voltage ranges. Its really just a matter of preference. I didn't care for an extra wire running the distance of the engine bay. My voltage is normal even with hid headlights
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Old 09-21-2014, 06:54 PM
  #42  
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Update. I am not an idiot. It was wired up correctly, my issue was the belt was loose. I adjusted the tension to eliminate the squeal and I am now seeing 13.5 to 13.8 volts at idle.

I will get it off the jack stands and bleed the cooling system, and take it for a ride for the first time in a month.

Caveat - the idiot part is still TBD. After all, I did purchase a 951....
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Old 09-30-2014, 04:41 PM
  #43  
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Well, after 3 years and 20k miles, my Quest alternator finally died this morning. We had a short service and a nice eulogy before removing the alternator and placing it in its final resting place; the trash. But for $135/shipped, can't be the replacement price!
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Old 09-30-2014, 07:00 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by ramius665 View Post
Well, after 3 years and 20k miles, my Quest alternator finally died this morning. We had a short service and a nice eulogy before removing the alternator and placing it in its final resting place; the trash. But for $135/shipped, can't be the replacement price!
Only 20k? That's a pretty short life for an alternator. I'd hope/expect to see at least 100k.
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Old 09-30-2014, 09:37 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by 67King View Post
I've read something about using a small Nissan Sentra alternator, but I can't find any info on it. For the race car, need half the amperage of a stock car. Anyone have any idea what the deal is?
A chevy sprint-pontiac firefly alternator is what a guy in Calgary supposedly used on a track car.
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