mahoney944

Place them both pulley down on a flat table. Then youll be able too tell exactly how close they are and where you need to grind

bumflick

after



after grinding <br/>note the pulleys line up

Paul Waterloo

Excellent pictures!

Considering I just turned the throwout bearing washer around last weekend at a mere 17 hours of labor....I'm going to tackle this project later. Take some pictures when you are done, if you can measure the thickness of the forward tab before you start, and then again after it fits correctly, we'll be able to figure out how much to remove....would be very helpful for me.

Thanks!

snb13

Does this work on N/A's? And if we have the ebay seller put on the 6 rib pulley, do we maintain stock belt length?

67King

I've read something about using a small Nissan Sentra alternator, but I can't find any info on it. For the race car, need half the amperage of a stock car. Anyone have any idea what the deal is?

mahoney944

Yes stock belt will work

bumflick

Ok, finally completed this project. I kept having to trim the bolt holes and the ears get it to fit. Just reassembled all the cooling and air tubing that bad to be removed to get to the alternator. Refilled the radiator, connected the battery, and cranked it. It started and ran, but zero volts on the dash gauge.

Getting bit of belt squeal when I revved it, so adjusted the AC tensioner, but now I have the battery on a trickle charge before I try again in the morning. I will test the voltage at the battery as well.

For those that have done this mod - how did you wire it up? Did your stock volt meter work?

Thanks

mahoney944

Wiring diagram

https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...500x500q85.jpg

Buy this connector to make the wiring easy and professional looking

http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoc1900.aspx

User 52121

The wiring diagram is correct here tho I personally would recommend running a wire from the battery to the alternator instead of the little "jumper". Noticed more consistent and higher voltage on the dash gauge that way.

bumflick

Thanks guys. That is how I wired it up, so something may have come loose.

I have ordered the factory connector, so that is on the way. When you say run a wire from the battery to the alternator, you mean from the positive terminal to middle tab (the on that currently has the jumper running to the big bolt where the main wire goes?

mahoney944

Yes instead of taking that wire and jumping it to the main terminal on the alternator, run it to the positive terminal on the battery. Personally I think the jumper works well enough, even after a 3 hour drive the voltage stayed up at 13.8 to 14.2 well above the 12 volts it needs. The design of the alternator is meant to have that wire connected to the terminal, however the majority of people who have done the mod use the jumper method and have great results at normal voltage ranges. Its really just a matter of preference. I didn't care for an extra wire running the distance of the engine bay. My voltage is normal even with hid headlights

bumflick

Update. I am not an idiot. It was wired up correctly, my issue was the belt was loose. I adjusted the tension to eliminate the squeal and I am now seeing 13.5 to 13.8 volts at idle.

I will get it off the jack stands and bleed the cooling system, and take it for a ride for the first time in a month.

Caveat - the idiot part is still TBD. After all, I did purchase a 951....

ramius665

Well, after 3 years and 20k miles, my Quest alternator finally died this morning. We had a short service and a nice eulogy before removing the alternator and placing it in its final resting place; the trash. But for $135/shipped, can't be the replacement price!

User 52121

Only 20k? That's a pretty short life for an alternator. I'd hope/expect to see at least 100k.

gruhsy

A chevy sprint-pontiac firefly alternator is what a guy in Calgary supposedly used on a track car.