Dougs951S

Can someone tell me how many threads on their tie rods are exposed behind the lock nut near the tie rod end, and measure the distance between the edge of the rack boot and the lock nut? Many thanks in advance!

I know that my steering wheel is on straight because I have equal degrees of turn on both sides, so with the wheel centered I know my rack is also centered. With the wheel strapped down, I made sure both tie rod assemblies were the same length to within a 32nd of an inch. I am certain both wheels have the exact same amount of individual toe. What I am not totally certain of (despite measuring) is whether I have zero total toe, or a slight bit of toe in. Knowing the length of someone else's tie rod assembly will help me a lot. For what its worth, my assemblies measured 9 1/2 inches from the lock nut to the edge of the steering rack boot, and there are 4 tie rod threads exposed behind the lock nut. I am not sure if this is too short (IE toed in).

txhokie4life

Your welcome to come out to the shop and measure up my 951 -- should be easy it's still on the lift.

Mike

Dougs951S

Thanks Mike, I just may have to do that. I'm having trouble (I guess) understanding the geometry of all the moving parts in the front end. I really didn't think it was that complicated but I guess I'm stupid because I can't figure this out. My car has a slight pull at highway speeds toward the driver side, which I've determined is because of a bad tie rod. (I think the ball joint at the rack end is done, there is a lot of play in the tire if I grab it at the 3 and 9 o clock positions and shake it, and I can not detect any play in the tie rod end. Very minimal play if I try and shake at 6 and 12 o clock. No weird vibrations or anything, just a slight pull that I can not correct with cross caster) Today I centered the rack with the special bolt and made sure the wheel was on dead straight, and that both tie rods were equal length (which should ensure equal individual toe, correct?). However, when I'm holding the wheel to counteract the pull and make the car steer straight, the wheel is off toward the passenger side by ~10 degrees, which makes zero sense to me. Like I said, I guess I'm stupid because I can't figure this out. Camber and Caster are dead even on both sides and were set before monkeying with the toe. This is far from my first alignment so I'm well aware of the procedure. Tires have been swapped left/right so it isnt a radial pull.

I like to use the string method and a tape measure to set toe, and here comes the other weird part. With the rack still centered and total toe set to 0, the tie rods are totally different lengths (which would imply individual toe was not even, right?) and the wheel is way off center. I know both of these conditions can be corrected by moving the tie rods equal amounts in opposite directions, but shouldn't I not have to do that if I started with the rack centered?

Lastly, does anyone have a good complete tie rod assembly, or even just the inner tie rod for an early offset power rack?

txhokie4life

PM me -- I'll be out there for sure on Thursday night prepping the chump car.

Mike

Van

To center the steering wheel, use the special tapered bolt in the steering rack. There is a little threaded opening (with a plastic cap) and inside, on the rack shaft, there is a "dimple" for that bolt to go into. That is the exact centerline that should be used for both putting on a new steering wheel, and also for doing any toe adjustments.

Dougs951S

Van, the thing I cant wrap my head around was that I DID lock the rack using that special bolt prior to doing all this. I'm befuddled. Thanks for me offer Mike, I'll be there.

931guru

Keep in mind that there are two different tie rods for the 944. The later one (84 to 86) is about an inch longer than the early one (1987 and later).

Dougs951S

931, These are the same tie rods that were on the car when I bought it ~2 years ago. They are the correct early offset power tie rods. My main question for the big brains here is, could the change in toe induced by a bad tie rod be enough to force the steering wheel ~10 degrees off center when going down the road straight?

Van

No, that's unlikely... I'd say it's more likely that one of your steering rack bushings is shot...

Dougs951S

Well you might be half right...The bushings were good but the rack might be done. The clunk sounds like its coming from the box, right below the steering shaft. Its not the U joints, they are tight. The steering sure feels good, nice and smooth with no catching or uneven pressure. The driver side inner ball was dry/crusty but I couldnt really detect any play in it and the clunk didnt sound like its coming from the inner tie rod. Its obviously bad and needs to be replaced, but so might the rack..so I'm still not sure exactly what my problem is. Fuuuuuuuu