Snugglepush

Hey guys,

So I checked 944online, lindsey racing and Zims autotechnik. I'm thinking of buying my parts from Zims they have the best prices for the following and it can shipped by USPS.

Since I have a 1986 Model, I'm not sure if I have the early version or late version water pump. So if I have the early version, can I convert it to the late version with the following? (I think I need to also buy the steel bar supporting it).

In addition, are all these items enough for a first time job or am I even overdoing it? (not sure if I need the thermostat and hardware kit of 29 pieces)

-Cam/Balance Shaft Belt & Roller Kit, 944 -86 late

Price:$179.00

-Front Engine Seal Kit, 944/944T

Price:$56.50

-New Water Pump, Late Version, 924S/944/944T/944S

Price:$139.95

-Waterpump Gasket, 924S/944/S/T/S2/968

Price:$2.95

-Hardware Kit for Waterpump Installation (29pieces of screws and bolts for waterpump installation)

Price:$10.50

-Thermostat, Stock Temp, 924S/944/T/S/S2/968

Price:$10.50



I've never got anything like this shipped from the US. Any of you have any experiences with taxes/brokerage fees across border to Canada (Montreal)?

People from MTL, where do you usually buy your parts?

Thanks for all your input!

Matt

divil

You'll want the thermostat, but I don't know about this 29 piece hardware kit. I think most people re-use all the mounting bolts and nuts for that, and if any of them are unusable you can get them anywhere, they are just metric nuts & bolts.

If you're doing your front seals, it's quite a bit more work so you really should be replacing the metal sleeves while you're in there. At $56 I doubt the kit contains all those. I used this one, $172 and there wasn't a single thing in there that I didn't need.

And also, at that price the water pump probably isn't going to be a new one - probably a rebuilt one. Which might be OK...some people are not keen on them so you might want to read up on that and make sure you're happy with it.

Black51

I've gotten stuff from Zims before. Whatever you do, DON'T get it sent via UPS, FedEx, or any other private carrier. Just get it sent USPS. If you want it a bit faster, have it 'expedited'. It won't cost much more, and you'll get the stuff the next week.

Check these guys out also.

http://www.canadapartsonline.com/

Crackership

Do you have a belt tension tool? You'll need that to ensure the belts are tensioned properly.

blade7

I read a few guides and didn't use the tool, I didn't rely on the auto tensioner prefering the waterpump twist method, the engine expands when hot putting even more tension on the belt and I reckon that's what makes some waterpumps fail. The balancer belt is a little trickier but you'll hear if it's too tight, they dont whine when they're right. I've just re checked my belts, cambelt was fine, balancer belt needed a little tweak. I would say you need to view the bottom balancer pulley square on when lining up the timing mark, view it slightly off and it's possible to be a tooth out like the last guy who changed the belts on my car.

Crackership

OP has an '86 - No auto tensioner. Completely agree with you on the balancer belt. It's made noise every time I've used a tool on it. I just set that one by hand/ear

blade7

I guessed he had no auto tensioner which kind of points towards the using waterpump pulley method, especially if his original waterpump is good.

dmcampbell

Try also www.rennbay.com. Great service and prices.

mtnman82

It's a little more work & $, but when I did the belts I also re-sealed the oil cooler. One of those 'while you're in there' things. For $10.50, I'd go ahead and replace the nuts/bolts too (I did anyways...). I got most if not all the stuff from Zims too.

Snugglepush

@Divil: Check the Zims kit for the front engine seal kit.

http://www.allzim.com/acatalog/Front...e065_2e00_2eVL

Correct me if I'm wrong but I think the Zims is worth more buying due to the price and it's pretty complete (it has certain seals if not all)



For the tension tool, I heard that most people go by feel/twist method.


I heard Zims Rebuilt Waterpumps are very solid.


Anyone know if I could convert an early version water pump to a late version one? I haven't checked yet which version I have but I figured I mind as well just get the late version even if it needs converting.\

Thanks for the Canadianstore, I guess I'll use this store for specific items since I don't see any Timing Belt kits with rollers. I'm also assuming that the shipping will be much better without all the duty hassle.


So please let me know about the possibility of the conversion!!!


Thanks Guys

divil

Yep that is all the front rubber/plastic type seals you need. But each of those 4 thick ones on the left (crank, cam and balance shaft x2) rides on a steel sleeve, which eventually gets a groove worn into it. When that happens, it might not seal properly even with a new seal. You can inspect them when you have them out, but if you then discover that they're worn you'll have to wait for more parts...that's why I'd recommend buying them up front, then just replace them regardless and never worry about it. They're going to start leaking sooner or later anyway. When you see the work involved in getting to these seals you'll be glad you did it.

Here's what the balance shaft and cam sleeves look like:



And the crank shaft sleeve (it's toothed because it's the drive gear for the oil pump):




Oh and BTW, you're going to want a flywheel lock to break the crank bolt loose. Arnnworx makes a great one if you can't beg/borrow/steal one somewhere

Tom M'Guinn

I didn't see the small aux water pump thermostat (to cool the turbo) on your list, nor the coolant neck and o-ring needed to seal it up. The neck warps and is 50/50 to leak if you don't replace. The twist method for the belt isn't a good idea unless you are very familiar with the "feel" of properly tensioned bolts. I've done belts dozens of times on the 951, and always try to predict how much tension is on the belt before checking with the factory tensioner. After lots of practice, I am usually within a point on the guage, but that is frequently the difference between being within spec and out of spec. If this is your first time with no reference point, the chance of being close to spec just isn't that good. If you don't want to invest in the factory tension tool (or can't borrow one), there are a few unofficial tools availble much cheaper which will at least give you a fighting chance....

http://www.arnnworx.com/catalog/inde...roducts_id=189

Or search for the Cricket tention tool...

divil

+1

The Arnnworx tensioning tool is good. I have compared it with the factory tensioner, and I found it accurate. It took quite a bit of practice before I started to get consistent readings from it, but to be honest, so did the factory tool. Both tools can be made to give wildly different readings with the subtlest of changes to how you use them, but after a while you will find the technique. The Arnnworx instructions are very detailed and you need to follow them to the letter.

Also OP, if you can, plan on having your initial 2k mile re-tensioning done by a pro, that way if you are way off you'll catch it early. If you use your head you're unlikely to get it so wrong that it won't last 2K

blade7

I wouldn't rely on twisting the belt either, I've done quite a few different belts but I'm not doing them frequently enough to calibrate my thumb and forefinger from memory .

Black51

Haven't blown my engine up yet.