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Even though quite archaic compared to current ABS units, I used to really like it on my old '89. Getting the heel/toe action down is really useful for both times and transmissions. :-)
i used to not want ABS because i thought it would detract from the simple driving fun of a 944 but...
since i got my subaru which has standard ABS, even with marginal quality brakes it stops VERY hard.
emergency-type braking in the subaru just stops it, at a pedal pressure that would just lock up the tires on the 944...
I have been running low boost to learn momentum driving. I figured once my skill level merits more power, it would be available. That time has now arrived I have some plans to place the boost controller controls on the steering wheel (I will post pictures soon).
That's the way to do it!
Your driving has improved quite a bit from your first few events. Nice job!
FWIW I ran a few events with the boost turned all the way down (Laguna Seca on purpose, but a few local Chicago area events on accident where I shared the car with my wife and forgot to turn it back up before I went out) and I did not notice much of a difference in lap times. In fact it was a little bit more fun being able to go deeper into the braking zones!
Originally Posted by V2Rocket
i bet it still makes 400hp on 10psi
Yeah probably!
Originally Posted by V2Rocket
i used to not want ABS because i thought it would detract from the simple driving fun of a 944 but...
since i got my subaru which has standard ABS, even with marginal quality brakes it stops VERY hard.
emergency-type braking in the subaru just stops it, at a pedal pressure that would just lock up the tires on the 944...
so ABS is worth having, if you can get it...
The early ABS was nothing like the current stuff. On one hand, yeah, "better than nothing"... but he's not giving up much, especially on track. Most of the newer 944's that are 100% track duty that *I* have seen actually have a "ABS RESET" button on the dash... apparently it's pretty easy to overwhelm the factory ABS module when used on a track.
Just finished all my mods in preparation for year six with the Hybrid Stroker. Buffed and waxed it, still looks pretty good even after a lot of track events. Upgraded brakes, new brake lines, more oil cooling, and new harness. Should be a fun year!
Last Fall I did a DE at Roebling Road and I started picking quite a few knock counts. Adjusted the tune to no avail and the car just seemed to be a bit down on power. On the way home I also picked up a bit of clutch shutter. Really considered pulling the motor over the Winter as it had been 5 years and 12 DE events but decided not to (mistake). Did a DE last weekend (the 13th event ) at Road Atlanta and on Sunday after the last session of the day, I pulled up to the trailer and oil pressure dropped to nothing. Checked the crank bolt and noticed I could move the pulley with the crank bolt in and out but the fly wheel did not move. Yikes. I crushed my best lap time with a broken crank! Break was right in front of the number one offset grind journal and amazingly the front and back of the crank interlocked causing knock on load and unload but the motor still ran fine. Amazingly the oil looked good and the rest of the motor is in pretty good shape. I have a new crank already in process and should have in 4 weeks. I am using a new machine shop. This was the first 95 mm crank ever done for a Hybrid Stroker. We have learned a lot over the last 5 years but in full disclosure I wanted to share what happened. Hoping to make an early June event at Road Atlanta.
Holy cow, that's amazing! Was the crank re-hardened with nitriding after machining the first time? Sorry that happened, and as bad as it is to break a crank, it looks like you dodged a bullet. If that thing let go at speed, it could have blown the block to smithereens...!
Holy cow, that's amazing! Was the crank re-hardened with nitriding after machining the first time? Sorry that happened, and as bad as it is to break a crank, it looks like you dodged a bullet. If that thing let go at speed, it could have blown the block to smithereens...!
Ya, pretty fortunate on this one No nitriding. I am betting on some kind of micro fracture that propagated over the years. I will post pics once the crank is out and we should have a discussion
Any chance you could post a pic of one of your connecting rods showing what is printed on each side. The Eagle rods I have don't have the same number stamped on them as the box they were sent in. I checked measurements and I believe they are the proper size and the box is labeled CRS5900MC3D.
Any chance you could post a pic of one of your connecting rods showing what is printed on each side. The Eagle rods I have don't have the same number stamped on them as the box they were sent in. I checked measurements and I believe they are the proper size and the box is labeled CRS5900MC3D.
One of the critical differences between the correct Mitsu 6bolt rod and the 7 bolt version is the width of the big end. Eagle/Mitsu 6bolt rod is 28.3mm wide. The incorrect 7bolt rod is too narrow.
10-24-2016, 10:00 PM
