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Refresh951's Hybrid Ultra Stroker Build

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Old 07-03-2013, 01:30 PM
  #766  
Dutch944
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Uhm guys.. Non-interference engine? I'm guessing.. Wait never mind, what is it?!
Old 07-03-2013, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Ant
More than nice; the non-interference design alone makes building hybrid-stroker worth it!
No doubt.

I don't need (or... gasp! ... want) the extra power from the stroker build BUT the non-interference design + low cost makes it tough for me NOT to consider when I pull my car apart this winter to re-ring it (170k+ means I'm sure it's due...)
Old 07-03-2013, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Dutch944
Uhm guys.. Non-interference engine? I'm guessing.. Wait never mind, what is it?!
An "interference" engine means that, if you open the valves fully, and move the piston to TDC, you have contact. A "non-interference" engine means that when the piston is at TDC and the valves are fully open, you do NOT have contact.

The factory 944/951 design is an "interference" one. Which is why, usually, when the timing belt breaks, you need to (at a minimum) pull the head and replace bent valves. The beauty of going to a non-interference design is exactly what Rogue described and Sid experienced... TB breaks, the car just stops. Slap a new belt on, and off you go.
Old 07-03-2013, 02:07 PM
  #769  
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Aha! Oke well good to know! I'll have to check what my engine does when it's finished.. Or is there any way to know before?
Old 07-03-2013, 03:53 PM
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Put the pistons at TDC

Put some clay on the top of tge piston around valve reliefs

and then bolt s head down using a light valve spring and open the valves to whatever your valve lift is.

Pull the head off and measure how thick the clay is at its thinnest point.

I like to have .100-.150"

If you can't open the valve to full lift or have minimal clearance, it will hit the valves if the belt breaks.
Old 07-03-2013, 05:53 PM
  #771  
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Thanks Sid! As soon as i get all of it in i'll try that, do i have to torque the head as well or is it good enough to just put it on and bolt it down a bit?
Old 07-03-2013, 06:06 PM
  #772  
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Originally Posted by OmniGLH
No doubt.

I don't need (or... gasp! ... want) the extra power from the stroker build BUT the non-interference design + low cost makes it tough for me NOT to consider when I pull my car apart this winter to re-ring it (170k+ means I'm sure it's due...)
I remember making statements like this. The HS 2.85L is a GREAT motor. You could build one with no need for expensive 3L parts and with the turbo you have could quite easily get 400 rwhp and have a non-interference design.
Old 07-03-2013, 08:25 PM
  #773  
refresh951
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Side by side comparison of the IC inlet pipes. I pretty much used SFR pipes as a guide. Tim's stuff was pretty awesome really. His designs were simple and efficient. It really is a shame he is not doing much with our cars these days.

At 750 cfm (around 500 flywheel hp), my calculations show this redesigned pipe to be a 3 psi pressure drop improvement. Therefore the turbo has to generate 3 psi less boost to produce the same intake pressure (at 750 cfm). This results in a significant improvement in heat generation not to mention more peak boost potential!


Old 07-03-2013, 08:40 PM
  #774  
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nice pipe sugar
Old 07-03-2013, 10:12 PM
  #775  
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Looking good! Have you found a boost bolt port in the right size?
Old 07-03-2013, 10:50 PM
  #776  
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
Looking good! Have you found a boost bolt port in the right size?
I am using this from Summit:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220070
Old 07-03-2013, 11:11 PM
  #777  
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Originally Posted by refresh951
NPT? Do you have a banjo bolt to fit that?
Old 07-03-2013, 11:18 PM
  #778  
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I would use a metal NPT to Pushlok tubing adaptor if it were mine. Make things simple and tidy. I will try to find a link.

In my phone so this is the best I can do:

http://www.smcusa.com/top-navigation/cad-models.aspx/21987
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Old 07-04-2013, 05:13 PM
  #779  
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Originally Posted by URG8RB8
I would use a metal NPT to Pushlok tubing adaptor if it were mine. Make things simple and tidy. I will try to find a link.

In my phone so this is the best I can do:

http://www.smcusa.com/top-navigation...els.aspx/21987
McMaster-Carr has this stuff. It's slick.
MM
Old 07-04-2013, 06:52 PM
  #780  
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Originally Posted by refresh951
Side by side comparison of the IC inlet pipes. I pretty much used SFR pipes as a guide. Tim's stuff was pretty awesome really. His designs were simple and efficient. It really is a shame he is not doing much with our cars these days.

At 750 cfm (around 500 flywheel hp), my calculations show this redesigned pipe to be a 3 psi pressure drop improvement. Therefore the turbo has to generate 3 psi less boost to produce the same intake pressure (at 750 cfm). This results in a significant improvement in heat generation not to mention more peak boost potential!


That's good to see Shawn. So essentially this all comes down to making pipes with the least amount of high angled turns for best results. I know that sounds like an obvious statement but good to see you're getting positive results.


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