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Old 09-13-2012, 11:03 PM
  #91
TonyG
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If I can't buy ORCA, I'll just order my own dammit :-)

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Old 09-14-2012, 06:13 AM
  #92
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While Orca is legendary, this will be better. Orca shows it's age. Especially in the Aero and cockpit depts. Subscribed!
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:40 AM
  #93
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Very cool. I dig the floor. Must be extremely light with cockpit/rear end design.

As usual there is several ways to skin a cat and in this case I can really not understand why you want to lower the trans. First off the drive shaft angles are screwed up already on a lowered 951 so to correct that the trans should be raised.
Secondly, aerodynamics and getting the total weight of the car lower to the ground should be a priority.
Lowering the trans will restrict how much you can lower the car in total. By raising the trans you can also make sure the exhaust does not protrude underneath the car. This means you can 1) lower the car more and get a greater mass further to the ground compared to a higher car with a lower trans.
2) Greatly increased effectivness of aerodynamics since you now can do a full flat floor very close to the ground.
3) You can also route the exhaust above the rear suspension with a raised trans
4) You can encapsulate the gearbox and do a flat flor and diffusor at the rear.
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:55 AM
  #94
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^This.
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:58 AM
  #95
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If possible, I would appreciate it if you could show some detail on how the fenders attach. I am also interested i how you approach the aero question. After Nasa Nat's we are making plans for Miller and the coming season that include a wide body and a flat bottom.

Your car is going to be great.

Assuming you are looking at ST1 in NASA?

Anyone with any information on advanced aero for these cars please contact me. I am watching closely for any ideas.
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:21 AM
  #96
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Originally Posted by Duke View Post
Very cool. I dig the floor. Must be extremely light with cockpit/rear end design.

As usual there is several ways to skin a cat and in this case I can really not understand why you want to lower the trans.
Both the engine and transmission are lowered 1/2" to lower the center of gravity of the car, which in-turn lowers the car's roll center.


First off the drive shaft angles are screwed up already on a lowered 951 so to correct that the trans should be raised.
The drive shaft angles are fine. I've been racing the car with a lowered transmission for 4+ years without problems.

Any axle problems I've had had zero to do with the angle of the shaft.

Secondly, aerodynamics and getting the total weight of the car lower to the ground should be a priority.
Lowering the trans will restrict how much you can lower the car in total. By raising the trans you can also make sure the exhaust does not protrude underneath the car. This means you can 1) lower the car more and get a greater mass further to the ground compared to a higher car with a lower trans.
2) Greatly increased effectivness of aerodynamics since you now can do a full flat floor very close to the ground.
3) You can also route the exhaust above the rear suspension with a raised trans
4) You can encapsulate the gearbox and do a flat flor and diffusor at the rear.
We are talking 1/2" on the transmission and engine. Been doing this for years. The drive train of of car represent the biggest portion of the sprung weight of the car. And that's why we lower it. And the 1/2" won't affect the bottom of the car nor will it affect the route of the exhaust system or anything else.

The car is going to be flat bottomed. And as you can see, the pan already has been done. We have a diffuser which is going to be integrated into the rear body work and run up to the pan. The front will be flat bottomed as well with the dual oil coolers being ducted out through the front brakes and the radiator ducted out through the hood louvers.

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Old 09-14-2012, 11:33 AM
  #97
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Sounds good. I just have a hard time seeing how you can lower the trans, fit a 3+" exhaust and still have a flat bottom without cutting the floor pan or make a side exhaust. But if you can do it that's great.

Not sure the engine, transaxle and transmission is the majority of the sprung weight though.
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Old 09-14-2012, 12:54 PM
  #98
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Originally Posted by Duke View Post
Not sure the engine, transaxle and transmission is the majority of the sprung weight though.
Motor (LS or 951) ~450lbs assembled, Trans ~140lbs, stock torque tube 60lbs...~650lbs in a car that weighs ~2100...

Would there be any sense in chopping the roof off and replacing the whole thing with FG, relying on the cage for roll-protection? That's a fair bit of weight as high as it gets...

Btw, those rear wheel covers look pretty BA.
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Old 09-14-2012, 01:18 PM
  #99
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket_aka944 View Post
Motor (LS or 951) ~450lbs assembled, Trans ~140lbs, stock torque tube 60lbs...~650lbs in a car that weighs ~2100...

Would there be any sense in chopping the roof off and replacing the whole thing with FG, relying on the cage for roll-protection? That's a fair bit of weight as high as it gets...

Btw, those rear wheel covers look pretty BA.

2100lbs total weight.
Wheels/suspension/brakes/1/2 of shocks/etc... = 450lbs approx.
.....

1650 total sprung weight
650lbs drive train

650/1650= 39.3%

The drive train = about 39% of the sprung weight.

So... I'm lowering 39% of the car's sprung weight by 1/2". That has a substantial affect on the car's center of gravity.

As far as roof goes.... There is no roof. It's just a skin that probably weights less than 5lbs.


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Old 09-14-2012, 01:22 PM
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What will the ride height be?
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Old 09-14-2012, 01:45 PM
  #101
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Originally Posted by Duke View Post
What will the ride height be?
I don't have a specific height.

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Old 09-14-2012, 11:01 PM
  #102
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More updates... for today

The wheel tubs are done.
The fuel cell fire wall is done.
The new door fastener/clip is done.

Monday:

Finish the dual Fluidyne oil cooler mounting/ducting

TonyG


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Old 09-14-2012, 11:17 PM
  #103
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Next is the install of these two babies with the associated ducting to the brakes....

mu ha ha

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Old 09-15-2012, 12:04 AM
  #104
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Are you going to mount them either side at the front of the Orca-like bumper panel? Nice work on the wheel tubbing.
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Old 09-15-2012, 12:39 AM
  #105
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Originally Posted by 333pg333 View Post
Are you going to mount them either side at the front of the Orca-like bumper panel? Nice work on the wheel tubbing.
They go on each side of the RH radiator.

Then the exit ducting is funneled to the front rotors and exits through the wheels.

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