Paulyy

Before reading anything here, we strongly recommend you to check over the whole car and replace everything that needs replacing.
Especially those fuel lines, because This can happen.. But you may not be so lucky

Before i get started, Remember that this isn't a nissan skyline or a honda civic, or any form of "tuner car" so there isn't a wide range of aftermarket off the shelf parts available for these cars. most things done to these engines are custom made by the owners or a work shop who specialises in Porsches / 944 turbos.


Contents:

- Things you should do before you modify your car

- Simple modifications

- Advance modifications

- Piggybacks & Standalones

- Brake upgrades

- Suspension upgrades

- Useful Threads / Write ups

- Useful Websites

- List of recommended modifications

For feedback ect, post HERE

Paulyy

1) Make sure the service of the timing and balance shaft belts and rollers is up to date. These belts are critical and they are a common failure point, and improper maintenance has led to the death of many a 944 engine. Maintenance info can be found at Clarks Garage, see here.

2) Fix all leaks (or at least the major ones). These cars leak everywhere and it takes some effort to track them down and stop them. These leaks can do a lot of damage, especially to rubber suspension components. They also can lead to an engine fire. Also check for pre-turbo exhaust leaks, header cracks. that can rob you off power, performance and fuel consumption.

3) Check for vacuum/boost leaks. These cars are 25 years old and rubber components break down and crack. This is a good time to replace the vacuum lines. Vacuum kits such as this are cheap and worth every penny. You can check your system for leaks using a technique such as can be found in this video.
4) Make sure your brakes are up to snuff. When is the last time the brake fluid was flushed? What do the pads look like? Check the calipers for damage and leaks.

5) Perform a careful inspection of the suspension components. If you are serious about your car, the suspension will eventually need to be addressed. Address the suspension up front. It will make the power you add more fun and safe.

6) Install a boost gauge and a wideband Air/Fuel Gauge. Over boost and improper air/fuel ratio (especially lean) can result in rapid engine failure. These motors have incredible power potential but they are fragile is some respects and you must understand what is going on. If you are going to make significant modifications install a data logger so you can carefully analyze what is taking place with respect to the engines vital signs (boost, air/fuel ratio, RPM, TPS). Data loggers such as this are worth every penny and a lot cheaper than a new motor.

7) Install a knock counter, especially if you are going to be running more than 15 psi of boost. Chris White at 944 Enhancements posted a great tech article about knock (detonation) see here. A common formula for catastrophic engine failure is to run lean at high boost resulting in destructive knock. With the 951 it is very easy to install an impulse counter such as found here and install it as shown here. This technique utilizes the the stock knock unit needed by the KLR.

Paulyy

What modifications should I do?

What are the basic mods/what basic mods should I do?
Well most people start off with the cheap and most effective mods that wake up the car.

In no order:
Test pipe/De-Cat (remove the catalytic converter & replace with straight pipe)
Lindsey racing boost enhancer (decreases turbo spool time)
Dual Port Waste gate (decreases spool time and holds boost better at upper RPM) ***no need for the Lindsey Racing Boost Enhancer for this mod.
Chip set (Increases over all performance of the engine, raises RPM and Boost limit from ~10 psi to ~15-18 psi depends on brand)
MAF (removes factory restrictive AFM and replaced with a MAF, comes with it’s own chips and other stuff depends on brand such as piggy backs and accessories)

Other mods that you would do after doing the above:
3” Exhaust or bigger
Injectors + FPR
Larger turbo
Head work
Intake
Camshafts
Intercooler end tank mod (enlarges the factory end tank to flow more air though)
Cooling mods e.g larger intercooler, larger oil cooler, larger radiator…

So the questions are.. In no order.

Which Chips should I get if I want to keep the factory AFM?

Well here are the 3 more popular choices:
LR MAX chips
Vitesse AFM chip.
Rogue Tuning A-Tune

The LR MAX Chips are old school using 2D ignition & fuel tables, which are specifically tuned to the set up you, have in your car. They start at $315

The Vitesse AFM Chips are tuned for the K26/6, K26/8 or K26/7. They start at $345 for an off the shelf chip, or $895 for a custom/dyno/race tune.
A lot of customers are very happy with his tunes.

The Rogue Tuning A-Tune uses a new 3D mapping technology, where 1 chip works on 95% of the set ups. The down side to this chip set is you need to wire up a MAP sensor to your engine bay (which is pretty easy) and you need to convert your DME from a 24 pin DME to a 28pin DME (The '86 and '87 years had the "24pin" EPROM, while the '88 and '89 were upgraded to the "28pin" versions) Rogue will do the mod for a small price if you don’t think you can do it.
This chip set would be the smoothest and most modern chips available for our cars and will work with any modification you do after you buy the chips. Prices are set at $300 and +$50 for the DME conversion.

So which one should I choose?
Well it’s your choice in the end. I've listed the best 3, everyone one has their choice.

I don’t want to keep my AFM and I want a MAF, which one should I buy?

Again you’ve got 3 brands to choose from.
Lindsey Racing Quad M
Vitesse V-MAF+
Rogue Tuning M-Tune

The Lindsey racing Quad M uses old school technology same as their chip sets, which is just a remap if the fuel and timing tables to suit your new mods.

The V-MAF+ uses a "true maf code" where the Chip has been re-written to accept the MAF with out the use of any piggy backs. The system incorporates a MAP sensor allowing the DME to control Fuel and Ignition based on actual boost. The kit can be programmed for various large size injectors. Software has been written to operate in semi-batch mode to provide factory like idle with large injectors. This kit will work on any mods you do before and after you buy the kit. They also offer a piggyback for that fine tuning, data logging, boost control and user defined limits. Software also supports MoMonitor to know what the engine is doing.
The V-MAF+ comes packed with features unique to the Vitesse system, not found in any other systems:
- You get 6 images loaded on the chipboard. The Images cover: test friendly image, 91 octane, 93 octane, race fuel and various E86 blends.
This is the equivalent of 6 DME chips in a single package. Up to 16 images can be stored on the chipboard.
- The chipboard replaces the EPROM chip and is compatible with both 24-pin and 28-pin DME. No need to convert 24-pin DME to 28-pin DME.
- User defined/selectable: Rev-limit, overboost protection, engine temps, oil temps or intake temps.
- Overboost can bet set electronically via PiggyBack and/or mechanically via adjustable pressure switch supplied with the kit.
- Two preset Rev-limits (in addition to user selectable rev-limits).
- Non intrusive overboost protection for pump fuel.
- Non intrusive user notifications in case of a MAP sensor failure, with automatic recovery.
- Non intrusive fail safe mode.
- Software support interfaces to 3rd part systems, such as the Zeitronix complex alarms.
- Software supports up to 120# injectors.

The M-Tune also uses a "true maf code" and also uses a 3D look up table for the ignition table and fuel table which change how the engine reacts to throttle and pressure change. This MAF will work on any set up you've got on your engine, even if you modify it after you've got the MAF, that's the advantage of the true maf code and the 3D look up tables. Rogue now offer a "DME-Interface" which allows you to data log and to fine tune the engine.

- Re-programmable memory-board, ensures the integrity of your tune; Future tuning updates at no cost.
- Free-breathing Hitachi MAF sensor, with enough capacity to measure up to 600 horsepower!
- True 3D timing and fueling maps, allowing better economy during normal driving and increased power under heavy throttle.
- Enlarged maps, allowing a more accurate tune, and improved safety.
- Enhanced closed-loop operation, which adds safety while maintaining fuel economy.
- Improved tip-in throttle fueling, resulting in significantly improved throttle-response.
- 3Bar MAP sensor addition. Now the DME knows and understands boost pressure! Boost-sensitive timing is now a reality, and true over-boost protection provides an engine saving safety-net.
- Multiple maps, selectable by an external switch, allows the user to have two different tunes. Pump-fuel, race-gas, E85, and emissions-only are all possible!
- Matched to gen-IV high-impedance injectors for proper fueling without the need for added resistors.


v-MAF+ starts at $1250
M-Tune starts at $1100

**both tunes supports E85, but larger injectors are needed and a larger fuel pump.



I want to increase my boost, how do I do this?

First off, you need to get a new chip set that allows you to increase the boost. After you’ve got the chip set, you need a boost controller.
Most people are happy with a manual boost controller that you can buy at any auto performance store. Others would use an electronic boost controller to use the advance settings such as boost on demand, boost by gear ect.
If you want an electronic boost controller and not sure which one to choose, well you should search “electronic boost controller reviews” in Google and have a read about the different ones with the different features. If you want it for the fact it’s electronic, you’re better off keeping the manual boost controller and spending the money somewhere else.

Vacuum Diagram

With the Vitesse MAF kit, you can use the Vitesse PiggyBack to electronically control boost. There is a mechanism to control the cycling valve as well.

Why should I change my waste gate and which one should I get if I do?

Why should you change it? Well it’s simple. The factory waste gate bleeds off boost early because of the weak spring and starts bleeding off before you hit full boost, which creates turbo lag (we don’t want that).

What one should I buy?

Lindsey racing can modify your standard waste gate into a dual port waste gate for $440
Or
TiAL 38mm wastegate which you can buy from pauertuning for $480 +$57 for all the gaskets you need.


I want to upgrade my exhaust, what brand should I get and how big should I have it?

It doesn’t matter who makes your exhaust because they’re all the same in the end. Mufflers are your choice in sound you want.
The size most people would recommend is 3”. 4” is not really needed until you're making 450+whp, 3” is still big enough to support that power.

Cost varies depends who makes it for you, best to call around.



When should I get bigger injectors? Should I get a bigger fuel pressure regulator? Fuel pump? Can I run e85?

You should upgrade your injectors when you get a bigger turbo from the standard k26/6 or 26/8 (turbo s factory turbo) Or when you buy your chips so you save on a re-tune to tune the chips to the injectors you’ve bought.
(Vitesse recommends 83# injectors, with support up to 120# injectors.)
(Rogue recommends their 80# injectors and are working on supports for larger ones)
Most off the shelf tunes require you to get a 3bar FPR to get the most out of your injectors.
Injectors start around $350+
A Bosch FPRs around $100

The stock fuel pump is good for just over 400whp on pump fuel.
If you want to run e85, you’ll need a bigger fuel pump no matter what. Recommended is a Bosch 044 external pump. Lindsey racing sell the full kit.


If you do all the above mods, at 15psi (maximum boost the turbo can hold) on a k26/6 you should have around 280rwhp. On the k26/8 on 18 psi(maximum boost this turbo holds) would make ~300rwhp



.

Paulyy

I still need more power after the mods above, what should I do next? Head work? Do I need a bigger turbo? Cams?

Head work at this stage would be a waste of money if you don’t plan to change the turbo, because you’ve reached the maximum airflow the turbo can flow.
So the next thing to do is a bigger turbo.


So I want to change my turbo, what choices do I have?

The answer is that you’ve got a lot of choices. But not so many bolt on choices.

The stock turbo is a k26/6 and the stock turbo s turbo is a k26/8. The difference? The hot housing on a k26/8 is larger then the k26/6. #8 cm2 vs #6cm2. Thus the larger hot housing = less exhaust backpressure = slightly more lag which gives you slightly more power.
The k26/6 will reach 15psi in 3rd gear at ~2600 rpm and the k26/8 is ~300 rpm later.

The upgrades for the k26/6 are:

K26/8 – the only reason you’ll choose this turbo is because the k26/6 is in need for a rebuild and you want to keep how it was with a little more power. You can pick these up cheap but would require a rebuild, $200+

K27/6 This turbo Is a hybrid from a k27/8 and a k26/6. The compressor from the k27 and the #6 housing from the k26/6. This turbo is good for ~335rwhp which spools up around the same as the k26/8 but offers more top end. Can be found for ~$500

K27/8 is from the older 911 turbos. It spools up ~200-300 rpm later then the k27/6 but offers more power output to ~350rwhp. Can be found for ~$500 also

Both of the k27 series turbos require a water line fitting modifications, which you can find out how to do that if you do a quick search for “k27 install”

You can also get a turbo builder to put in a larger compressor into the factory turbo to make it flow more, but you need to find someone that can do that for you.

Vitesse offer a “stealth turbo upgrade package”, which requires you to give them the factory turbo, and they modify it to make more power, yet keep the factory turbo look.. They offer it with their AFM Chip, and a Piggyback at $2195. The PiggyBack allows you to fine tune, Data log and to control boost via the factory cycling valve.

You can purchase hybrid turbos form vendors like Lindsey racing & Vitesse that bolt in.

The popular choices are (in no order)

Vitesse stage 1 - full boost 15-18psi is around 3000-3200 rpm which is pretty quick, they say it’s good for 400 hp, this turbo Is made to give you the best spoolup and power curve possible for great midrange and not just big top end numbers. They offer this turbo with their V-MAF+ kit and PiggyBack kit for $3750.

Vitesse stage 3/3+ - is larger then the stage 1. It will give you 15 psi around 3200-3400 rpm. The turbo will support in the 450-500rwhp, with good spoolup characteristics to provide excellent midrange and top end performance. They offer this turbo with their V-MAF+ kit and a PiggyBack kit for $4195. This turbo is one of the most popular turbos on the market. To see dyno chart, visit their website!

In addition to the S1, S3/S3R, S4 and S5 turbos, Vitesse can custom build a turbo just for you!

Lindsey Racing Super 48/#8(which is a to4e 50 trim with a kkk #8 replica hot housing) – a very popular turbo, dyno proven to spool up just like a k26/8 but the torque keeps going up there the k26/8 stops at ~ 3400rpm and slopes down, the torque on this turbo just keeps going up until 4100 rpm which gives you excellent midrange torque and supports 350 rwhp @ 18 psi. Price is from $1255+

Lindsey racing and vitesse also offer larger turbos to support bigger power, go on their websites and have a look at their range.


I found a Garrett GT series OR Holset OR Precision turbo, will it fit?

Yes it will fit (if it’s an appropriate size) but will require you do modify the exhaust up pip and down pipe, also the oil drain pipe. You’ll also need to have custom water and oil lines to the turbo. Sounds easy, but it isn’t as easy as it sounds.

As I’m not familiar with Holset or Precision turbos so I’m not going to give advice on them (but if you’re willing to go this far, you should have an idea which one would work good for a 2.5L 8v engine)

But for Garrett, You’ll want a:
GT3071R
GTX3071R
For both of these turbos, you can choose either .63 or .82 a/r. all depending on how quick you want it to spool. .82 is recommended because they spool that quick.
GT3076R
GTX3076R
For these 2 turbos, the recommended hot housing is a .63 for best results on the street and track, full 15psi is around 3200 rpm in 3rd gear. .82 is more recommended for track use since you’ll get 15psi at 3400 rpm.
+100rpm for GTX series turbo.
- ~200 – 300 rpm for GT3071 turbos & +100rpm for GTX again.


I’ve upgraded my turbo and looking for some extra power, what else could be done to maximize the improvements.

Well you should upgrade your intercooler pipes to larger ones. You won’t find a power increase by doing this but you’ll increase the volume of the pipes so the air travels at a lower speed so turbulent aren’t created.

You should also consider getting the factory intercoolers end tanks modified so you can increase the airflow through the intercooler or look into a larger front mount intercooler.

Speed Force Racing sell a found mount intercooler kit (but there’s been problems with this company so be careful if you want to deal with them) but you’ll see a used kit for sale around here.

If you want to so custom front mount, I’m sure you know what you’re doing, if you don’t’ know what you’re doing, either get a pro to do it or don’t’ do it at all.


I want to get the head worked on, what should I do and where should I take it.

You could take it to you local shop and get it ported and polished to get the most out of the stock valves.

Some people use the intake valves from the 2.7L N/A head (which is a larger valve) and put them on the 2.5 head to get even more flow though the intake ports.

Lindsey Racing and Vitesse also offer this service, prices vary between what you want done.

Head work starts from around $800 depending who does it for you and what’s done. Theres no popular choice here, it’s just how much you want to spend or how much flow you want.

Once you get the head ported and polished, you’ll need to address the intake, as that’s your next restriction. You can get that honed, flow & port matched to your head. Lindsey Racing offer that service from $600.
Or you can buy an off the shelf intake from Lindsey Racing which start from $1150. Speed Force Racing sell an off the shelf intake also but again they’ve been having some issues getting their product out of the factory (not sure what’s going on here) which are around the same price, used will be under $1000 which pop up now and then.


I want to upgrade my camshaft, when should I do this?

In these cars, upgrading the camshaft is more of a last thing you would do.
It is not recommended on a stock turbo or a turbo which is under 350whp rated, since all you’ll do is move the torque to the right and have more turbo lag, bad low end power but better high end power (if it made a difference)

You can upgrade your cam with a stock head, but its more appropriate to upgrade it to accommodate the head after it’s been ported and polished to get better results.

Vitesse offer a custom grind cam, which requires you to send in your cam for a regrind that costs $650

Webcam offers off the shelf cams for the 951 but you need to shim the exhaust valves like the intake valves to accommodate the extra lift the cam offers or get the Lindsey racing valve springs with accommodate this for you.
Lindsey Racing stock these cams at $575



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Paulyy

Should I get a piggyback?

Depending on your application for the piggyback and what type of piggyback.

There are piggybacks that allow you to remove your AFM and run a free flowing intake. And others that allow you to fine-tune ignition and fuel maps. Some also allow you to control boost, meth injection and all sorts of things including data logging.


MAP based piggybacks (that allow you to remove you AFM)

A company use to sell “AFM LINK” piggyback controllers for the 951 along with a chipset that would allow you to delete your AFM and have the piggy back emulate the voltage that was produced by the AFM via a MAP sensor (manifold air pressure) and RPM into a 3D lookup table which requires to be tuned to your engine specifications.
Most AFM replacement piggybacks do the same thing just offer different features then others.
The positive things to these piggybacks are that you can have no intake restrictions before the turbo such as a restrictive AFM.
The negative is that each time you change something on the engine that modifies the engines VE (volumetric efficiency) like swapping intakes or getting the head worked or even something as simple as upgrading the exhaust, the piggyback will need to be re-tuned to allow for the extra fuel needed for the increased airflow as the piggyback can’t see airflow.

Advanced Piggyback (that allow you to control fuel and timing)

There’s only one piggy back that does this that will give you support for the 951 community, which is the Vitesse piggyback.

There are brand piggyback that have similar features, But they don’t offer tuning support or any support for the 951.


Should I Standalone EMS (replaces the stock DME & KLR)?

The only time you would want to go to a Standalone EMS is when you have a pretty serious race modified engine that you want your engine to do specific things at certain times where it would be harder to achieve this with a piggyback.
Or you don’t want a piggyback and just want to a standalone to achieve the best performance out of your engine and to be able to change absolutely anything you want at any time.

I’m not going to go in great detail with Standalones, because if you’re looking at going standalone you should already know what your needs are.

There is one standalone that is just about plug and play for the 951 which is a Vi-PEC sold by pauertuning. You can buy standalone, which comes with a full-terminated wiring harness and also comes with pre-loaded maps that allow you to turn your car on and drive away & to start your tuning.

Another popular alternative is the LINK EMS but it still requires you to adapt the standalone to your wiring harness and to the engine.


Knock detecting and controlling.

Some Standalones come with a built in knock controller to retard ignition when engine knock is present, but a popular choice is the J&S safeguard which was built in the same concept as the original KLR from the 951 so it works with the stock knock sensor but is more advanced and works with most standalones.



.

Paulyy

The standard 944 Turbo brakes are pretty good, for the time of these cars, 4 piston callipers front and back is pretty state of the art!

To get the post out of the standard brakes you can go with a different brake pad then OEM. The Black RS-14 compound and either of the Yellow compounds, RS-19 and RS-29 are great for the track, they're not street pads. If you want to boost the performance of your street pads, The Black RS 4-2-1 compound is a good choice.

On the 86 you can fit the 1987 Turbo S/ M030 (304mm rotor) by having adapters for the callipers or changing the whole spindal also. just finding all the parts is the issue,
But a better alternative is the 993 twin turbo big reds, which have a 322mm rotor and a larger brake pad which will stop the car even quicker.
You can buy the kid with adapters brand new from Lindsey Racing - Big Brake upgrades
** you'll need 17" rims or larger to fit these.

Another option is the 996 GT2 / GT3 6 piston front and rear callipers which have 350mm rotors. this upgrade is more for the serious track racer or if you've got money it also does look good on a street performance car.
9products sell the adapter kits, but it's up to you to find the callipers.

Paulyy

Suspension is one of the most biggest things you could do to the 951. Since the car is built for corners and not straight line, it's easily improved. A 951 with a well sorted suspension on the track can be quicker then some 911s. a 951 with some engine mods and a well sorted suspension can embarrass the 993 guys and depending what you've done you coud even scare the 996 guys and worry the 997 guys. all depends what you do.

There's already good write ups about suspension setups so instead of me doing another one i'll just link you to a real good one. Clarks-Garage suspension write up.pdf

There are a lot of brands of coilovers to choose from.
Koni (stock m030) (also do torsion bars if you don't want to go coilovers in the rear)
Intrax
KW
Bilstein
Motion

Paulyy

Useful threads & writeups

A good easy winter project for everyone

Rod bearing and lower balance shaft reseal pictorial

Phase two of my project turbo swap pictorial

Euro driving lights fogs with icesharks lighting harness

One way to install oil temp water temp gauges

Phase one of my project

Clutch replacement pictorial

E85 Mega thread

Hybrid Stroker Builds

Official hybrid stroker registry

Blown955 (Sid) Hybrid stroker project

Refresh951's Hybrid Stroker - Update: It is Running!!

GT30R Turbos info:

My GT30R Build

Pauly's Go quicker project. (First GTX series turbo used on a 951)

GT30R Mega Thread

Tech:

Tech: The 944 / 951 Ignition System.

Tuning lesson: Full 3-Dimensional tables vs 2-D tables vs 2-D+modifier tables.

DIY Tuning walk-through (TunerPro)

Material of stock headers and x pipe incoloy 800

Paulyy

You’ll notice I used Lindsey Racing, Vitesse Racing & Rogue Tuning a lot, that’s because, 1. They’re site sponsors and 2. They both supply out standing products for our cars.

There are other brands and companies that'll do the work, but they don't offer the support or just not around anymore.

Websites are here:
http://www.lindseyracing.com/
http://www.vitesseracing.com/
http://www.roguetuning.com/
http://www.pauertuning.com/
www.speedforceracing.com


Other sites for parts:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/index.htm
http://www.rennbay.com/
http://www.944online.com/
www.maxhpkit.com
www.944enhancement.com
www.customengineeredperformance.com/
http://9products.com/
http://www.paragon-products.com/

Paulyy

I want to gain a bit more power out of my car but keep it as stock as possible, with out spending much (220-250 rwhp) + ~20rwhp for optional 3”exhaust

- Chip set (to allow for more boost) (15psi max k26/6 & 18psi max k26/8)
- Lindsey Racing Boost Enhancer (to control boost & to keep the wastegate closes as long as possible)
- Test pipe/De-Cat (to delete your catalytic converter to free up the exhaust) OR a higher flowing catalytic converter. OR a full 3” exhaust

= Under $800 with test pipe or $1400 - $2000 with full 3” exhaust


I want the most out of my engine with the stock turbo, but keep it for the street (270-300 rwhp)

- MAF + chips - from $1100
- Manual boost controller - $80
- Dual port wastegate– from $440
- Test pipe from - $250 OR Optional 3” full exhaust - $700 - $1500 (depends if its SS and types of mufflers)

= From $1850
Optional intercooler pipes + diverter valve = +$500


My turbo needs a rebuild and I want to get the most out of it, what should I do?

You can get someone to rebuild your turbo with different compressor blades for ~$650 and reach 300-310 rwhp.

Or look into getting the Vitesse Stealth kit with AFM chips and a piggyback to control boost, data log and adjust fuel & Timing if needed. for $2195


I’m looking to get between 320-350 rwhp, what mods are recommended?

Option A:
- Vitesse stage 1 - $3750
- Larger injectors - ~$300
- To get the power levels the customer needs a Boost Controller. The Vitesse Piggyback, which is part of the Vitesse system (but not part of other packages), can be used for tuning, data logging and as a Electronic Boost Controller (EBC).

= from $4050
Optional Bosch 044 fuel pump to run e85 +$300


Option B:
- MAF + Chips – From 1100
- 3” turbo back exhaust - $700 - $1500 (depends if its SS and types of mufflers)
- Manual boost controller - $80
- Dual port wastegate – from $440
- Larger injectors - ~$300
- k27/6 OR k27/8 - ~$500 OR Lindsey Racing super 48 - from $1255

= From $3100
Optional Bosch 044 fuel pump to run e85 +$300


I’m looking to get between 350-400 rwhp, what mods are recommended?

Option A:
- Vitesse stage 3 - $4195
- 3” turbo back exhaust - $700 - $1500 (depends if its SS and types of mufflers)
- Larger injectors - ~$300
- To get the power levels the customer needs a Boost Controller. The Vitesse Piggyback, which is part of the Vitesse system (but not part of other packages), can be used for tuning, data logging and as a Electronic Boost Controller (EBC).

= from $5190, Optional Head work – From $1200 to at lower boost or to pass 400rwhp
Optional Bosch 044 fuel pump to run e85 +$300

Option B:
- MAF + Chips – From $1100
- 3” turbo back exhaust - $700 - $1500 (depends if its SS and types of mufflers)
- Manual boost controller - $80
- Dual port wastegate – from $440
- Larger injectors - ~$300
- Head work – From $1200
- Lindsey Racing super 61 or larger - from $1255

= From $5055
Optional Bosch 044 fuel pump to run e85 +$300