Exhaust manifold leak and oil leak
 

Hey guys, please forgive my ignorance here. I've got two leaks :). Fairly soon I plan on either freshening the motor, or rebuilding a different one and putting it in so I'd rather try to fix this without removing the head.

First problem is the exhaust manifold leak when cold. Cylinder 1 closest to the firewall. I'm sure the oil leak didn't help..
http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/3249/manileak2.jpg


Last summer I had an exhaust leak from a stripped manifold stud hole. I helicoiled it and it worked great. Helicoil still holding strong. The problem (sorry the picture isn't very good) is that at the top middle part of where the manifold meets the gasket, it looks like the gasket has burned away. There is a visible space here. Common problem?

Is it possible to change the gasket with the head on the car? I know the studs need to be double nutted and removed, but does the crossover pipe or anything need to be disconnected?

Second problem is the oil leak. Isn't there a little seal on the back of the cam tower right there? What's involved in fixing it?
http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/2700/oilleak.jpg

There's a cork seal in the back of the Cam tower. Three bots to get it out and replace it. I think you should be able to do the manifold seal without removing the head.

Thanks man. Would you recommend using the Porsche seal or should I get one of those upgraded Lindsey ones? Anybody?

I think the cork seal does the Job well. I have never used the LR, so I can't comment. Also take your time, because the lack of room in that area.Good luck.

haha, yeah i'll take my time. i don't think i'll have much choice. a mirror might be a good idea.

what's that seal called? or part number?

thanks

cam tower rear seal
 

I recommend LR upgraded seal. the cork does deteriorate with synthetic oil in particular. Knowing this, I used upgraded seal in spite of the fact I use conventional motor oil (Valvoline VR1 or Kendall GT 20/50). The exhaust is a pain but definitely done with the head on the block. Good luck!

Thanks for the input guys. One of my mechanic buddies recommended a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF as a penetrating lubricant. He said it works way better than anything else out there. The exhaust job will definitely put it to the test. Most of those studs have been installed 20+ years. I'll load them up with that stuff and let them sit overnight.

consider trimming the bolt holes on the gasket so that it can slip over and "hang" on the exhaust studs. that way they can stay in place. lots of cars use this setup, and I've done it on many of my own...

hmmm, that's interesting. So you're saying to just loosen the nuts, pull the mani out a little, then slide the trimmed gasket over the bolts from the top? You don't think this changes the sealing of the gasket? Definitely sounds easier.

Do you guys recommend doing all 4 while I'm in there or just the leaky one? Like I said, I plan on doing the head and timing belt fairly soon.

It has been replaced once at about 50 or 60k miles. the first time it was dripping oil through the inspection hole on the bell housing and the clutch was slipping. i already bought the lindsey one. i'll report back if it sucks for me.

That thread was about the rubber coated steel gasket for the cam tower. The foam covered rear cover gasket works fine, i am using it on my car. The difference in price wasnt much between that and the cork one. Whichever gasket you chose, i recommend coating it in something like hylomar and just making sure you torque it evenly. Its only 3 bolts and a pretty low torque spec, just tighten each one a little at a time to make sure its all even.

I agree about trimming the exhaust gaskets to avoid removing the studs. Only replace the gaskets on the manifold you pull off, so either the 1-4 or the 2-3 only.

cool. the lindsey gasket will be here tomorrow. thanks.

PLEASE cover the Bellhousing Inspection hole first thing! And be careful with the Acetone mix, it and plastic don't get along, doesn't play well with Rubber eather.