Van

Great pictures!

Peedster

Nice!

If only installing an LSD, would the procedure be exactly the same except taking apart the pinion for bearing change? Cause the be bearings was the reason for taking pinion apart?

Does the crown wheel and pinion sit on the LSD? And could some steps be skipped if only installing LSD?

Is this considered a complete rebuild of the transmission or would that include all gears too?

My 220 tranny is whining....what is wrong with it?

Thanks
/P

m73m95

Very Very nice.

How do you save a thread to the HD. Not just a bookmark, but the entire thread?

67King

If you just replace the "ring" portion, the carrier, the bearings, that kind of thing, the job is MUCH easier! Also note that the specs for a new rebuild are different than one that has been in service (specifically, the torque to turn is 200N-cm versus about 60 N-cm). The service manual for this is pretty good, but this post is MUCH less ambiguous.

Gears are rarely, if ever, replaced. Usually just the synchros and shaft bearings, from MY experience, but I defer to the OP on this.

Peedster

Ok,

What would aprox the parts of a typical rebuild cost and where can I find the parts?
My tranny has 120k miles and whines. Would it be difficult to cure this for a DIY?

Can I service the LSD and at what cost or do I source a new one?

JET951

Hi 67King
We have found that the specs in the manual are really only suggestions. In fact in almost every rebuild we have done the shims are usually out more then that. From experience we use just the shims that were original to the box and then check the preload, modify if necessary then move onto the depth and modify if necessary. I will say we have an advantage here in that we have hundreds of shims to suit the 4 main bearings (S1, S2 and S3, S4)
I dont believe i have seen the shim you are referring to, but i may be wrong. Joka seems to be onto something there.
I should have included the trans lock we have.(i will edit the original and add it)
We have a tool that goes on the input shaft splines. that way you can lock it into a vice, select a gear(which locks the gear set) and then you can undo the triple square with a breaker bar.



When installing just the LSD you need to remove the main case with the gearset. But you will not need to remove the gearset from the main case as you will be working only on the diff case.

The crown wheel does bolt to the LSD. you will need to remove the bearings on the LSD to install the Crownwheel. Always use new crownwheel bolts. they are a one use wonder. You will then only have to set diff preload and diff backlash. all the other steps are there only to dismantle the gearset.

As 67King has mentioned usually you will not be replacing and gears. You would most likely replace a few Syncros and bearings. Unless you have damage to a Gear itself. Gears are matched so that you cannot just replace one side of the gear. For instance if you damaged the input shaft 5th gear then you would need to replace the Pinion 5th gear. Or else you could get whine in that gear.

If your 220 Transmissions whines then there could be multiple issues. If it whines in every gear then it is most likely from the crown wheel and pinion or a bearing associated with it. Obviously if it whines only in a particular gear(s) then the issue can be traced just to those matched gears.

You are completely correct 67King. New bearing preloads are to be set a little tighter then a used bearing. The specs i have included are for New bearings.

anders44

you know your nuts sean.

blown 944

Awesome Sean,

Thank you for sharing this. I will be tearing into an extra box I have that has something wrong with second gear. I will be referring back to this when I do.

Thanks again!!

333pg333

Great writeup Sean. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Agreed that this should be in a sticky somewhere. Haven't seen much moderation in this part of the world for some time.

What would General Melchant say??

Droops83

Very good writeup, the only thing that I was going to add its that you need a means of holding the input shaft still in order to break loose or torque the bolt that is on the tail end of the input shaft. But, your subsequent post shows a proper tool in order to do so. I have something similar laying around my shop, but I could not find it the last time I had my trans apart, so I put an extra clamping sleeve that I had laying around onto the input shaft (the one that normally goes there to clamp the input shaft of the transmission to the splined driveshaft of the torque tube) in a vise and was able to loosen and torque the bolt that way. Be sure that it is indeed a spare clamping sleeve, as it can easily break given the amount of torque involved!

67King

I was using a spare driveshaft couple that I had - but I actually broke the thing! I ended up putting a monkey wrench on the round part of it after I broke it, which did work.

eclou

as per the others this is a fantastic write-up and it comes at the exact perfect time for me as I have a turbo trans getting a Guards LSD this week

JET951

Naaay!

I was just about to comment that would be a good way to hold the input shaft. Maybe it may work even better with a hex bolt installed in the sleeve and torqued up. That way the sleeve would not be able to splay.

There is not much a monkey wrench wont fix. Were you still able to torque it up when assembling?

Olli Snellman

Very good write up Sean. I just printed it out and will use it as a guide line in my future trans projects. Thank You

Eric_Oz_S2

Great write-up guys. I'll keep you in mind next time I need some transmission work done.