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I'll have to measure angles on the track car, but with the heavy springs, it will likely move less than a street car?
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Known about these axles for a while now. Just trying to save some of you the time from my experiences with them. Believe me, I was just as excited as you guys when I discovered they would bolt up. They are good for kicking around town, daily driver stuff, but don't push them to the limit because they have a total of 10º less travel per axle than stock.
There is a writeup online somewhere comparing these to 944 to 911 axles. If you guys are hard up for CV joints I can get all the internals for them except the outside housing for around $25 each. New inner race, balls, cage, boot and flange. I have found that the outside housing (where the bolts go thru) doesn't tend to wear all that much anyway. It's the inside race that takes the beating. |
What do you mean by 'proper' ?
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
(Post 9389547)
What do you mean by 'proper' ?
seriously though. Just trying to help. Continue on, I'll stay out of it. :corn: |
I've been running the Type 2's for well over 20K miles WITH KYB GR2's and the V8 implant.... Have not busted one yet and I get airborne at times LOL. The real damage to the CV's besides wheel-hop is the CRAPPY trans mount design from the factory. Even a new one allows too much side-to-side movement. On top of that The 17* angle is measured anywhere from parrallel axis, therefore 34* max . One hybrider (948) measured his max angle to be nowhere close.
And if you are not in the know, the type 4's are 34mm thick thru the outer race and most type 2's are 32mm. There does exist a type 2 with bigger 0.75" balls and 34mm races. As far as the axle shafts, non-hollow Chromo 4340, thru-hardened will take loads more torsional force than a standard axle and it's "spooling" affect will save your trans over a hardened conventional axle. |
Driveshaft (and differential) torque ratings have little to do with engine power and torque. The tire to road contact (corner weight and friction) defines the upper limit.
If the 4100 lb VW Vanagon can chirp the wheels on a dry road, then it would need stronger drive shafts than the 3100 lb 951. If the differences in tire rubber compound and diameter are taken into account, then the needed drive shaft strengths are about the same. The 17º vs. 22º CV angle is obviously only a problem if the 951 needs more than the 17º, which would be worth checking. That “xschop” has been airborne with those shafts points in the right direction. Laust |
wonder if they are using 951 cv axles :)
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Originally Posted by carlege
(Post 9391829)
wonder if they are using 951 cv axles :)
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So what's the scoop? On a stock M030 car is it worth the a shot? Seems like it is....
Will look at Pelican too... ---- Looking at Pelican, I am a lucky 1989... so I have 25 spline (vs standard 22). 25spline - 88-89 Turbo... $90 shipped for the CV kit... Will these Vanagon axles fit...? Will try to research |
Originally Posted by Travis - sflraver
(Post 9388665)
Hate to burst anyone's bubbles here but the VW cv joints are spec for 17º of movement where the porsche ones are 22º. When the cv reaches its end of movement and binds, it's going to push the snap ring off or worse bust the cage inside.
They are an "alternative" for street cars but I wouldn't put a set on the track. IMHO.. not without modification anyway. |
Read something recently about a 2012 performance car (P? Ferrari? Corvette? can't remember...) that has two different diameter axles such that they don't "wheel hop" in unison and that that helps save the axles and/or other parts of the driveline as well...
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has anyone measured angle on driveline on track car? mine barely moves 1-2cm in rear on track at max.
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I bought an angle finder last night for another job. Will check the angles tonight and post up what I find.
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Originally Posted by robstah
(Post 9416075)
Both you and Travis are almost to the point of fear mongering. If you actually had some form of proof to your "claymore" nonsense, then this wouldn't be an issue and I and many others would move on. The fact that your statement is solely based off of speculation is why I almost want to quit posting on here. Please do yourself a favor and read the thread again. I pointed out the issues that need to be dealt with before even running new axles, reduced angle or not.
As an update, I have been very successful running these axles on my car. I am fairly aggressive on the street and they are handling the torque of the V8 nicely. When my suspension comes in, I WILL be tracking this car and plan on leaving these axles in. As also mentioned earlier in this thread, if you are scared like this individual, then pay some extra money and get the stronger ones that xschop provides. Those should be close to bullet proof and are far cheaper than most retailers of these rebuilt and upgraded axles. How many splines are these? Hard getting data on them... I'm willing to give it a try (car gets tech'd before each event so we would catch it, and I can rebuild the original off the car at my leisure), but with my 89, I'm worried I will buy the wrong part. Is it my AOR transmission, or something else, that would tell me what the correct count would be? Pelican says... "CV Joint Kit With Boot (33 splines), 924S/944/944S All, 944 Turbo (1986-87) " and "CV Joint Kit With Boot (25 splines), 944S2/968 (1989-95), 944 Turbo (1988-89, from ch# 95HN151525)" are different. My VIN is XXX951KN150510, so I think I fit into the second group! |
Measurements:
Full drop is -7 degrees Car on the ground under it's own weight +5 degrees Wheel deflection over this distance is 4" I can't measure total distance that the wheel will move upward without removing the spring and I'm not doing that tonight. My guess is that at the very most, the upward deflection from static is less than two inches, which is approx 6 more degrees of deflection for a total of 13 from horizontal. I'll throw the axle on the car for the next DE and give it hell for you guys. |
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