Lindsey Racing Boost enhancer question....
03-13-2012, 05:41 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
There is a spring and a plunger in there. The spring holds the plunger closed, which does not allow boost pressure to go to the wastegate via the cycling valve. This will build more boost faster.
Eventually, the boost pressure in the intake is enough to overcome the spring in the LBE, and then boost pressure goes to open the wastegate, thus reducing your boost. The more the LBE is screwed together (fewer threads visible), the more pressure on the spring. The more pressure on the spring, the higher the boost needs to be to overcome the spring pressure.
If you have a good regulator on your air compressor, you can set it to 10 or 11 psi, then blow into the LBE with a blow-gun and set it that way.
Eventually, the boost pressure in the intake is enough to overcome the spring in the LBE, and then boost pressure goes to open the wastegate, thus reducing your boost. The more the LBE is screwed together (fewer threads visible), the more pressure on the spring. The more pressure on the spring, the higher the boost needs to be to overcome the spring pressure.
If you have a good regulator on your air compressor, you can set it to 10 or 11 psi, then blow into the LBE with a blow-gun and set it that way.
03-13-2012, 09:28 PM
#21
Pro
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I must have gotten an updated model. I was able to dial it in so that it would jump straight to 14 and stay there. YMMV obviously
Also, http://www.lindseyracing.com/adjust.htm
Also, http://www.lindseyracing.com/adjust.htm
09-11-2012, 12:44 AM
#23
Intermediate
any updates because im also having trouble...i bouht a 951 with the boost enhancer and i just want to run stock boost for now because of the arizona heat
09-11-2012, 01:16 PM
#24
Racer
I bought a use one as well and was unsure of the settings. All I did was email (no cost) Lindsey and they got right back to me. The stock Lindsey setting is 4 pennies thick. US pennies that is, so I had to find four US pennies, measure them with my caliper and then set the LBE to the correct setting. I have never hit the overboost protection so I assume it is working correctly.
I did take the LBE off for a while, but re-installed it after as I was tired waiting for the boost to build. I guess i got used to the LBE.
I did take the LBE off for a while, but re-installed it after as I was tired waiting for the boost to build. I guess i got used to the LBE.
09-11-2012, 01:20 PM
#25
Racer
I have seen the wastegate shims on the Lindsey site used in conjuction with the LBE. Since these are used to stiffen the stock wastegate spring, will they do any good at all if running the LBE?
Since the LBE is limiting the wastegate signal until a predetermined point, why would you want it to now push against a tighter spring? Wouldn't you want it to escape as easily as possible at that point?
Since the LBE is limiting the wastegate signal until a predetermined point, why would you want it to now push against a tighter spring? Wouldn't you want it to escape as easily as possible at that point?
09-11-2012, 05:35 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
If you're still running through the CV, the LBE at the stock setting will not actually increase max boost. The shim will increase boost.
And, once the boost over comes the LBE spring, it will have much more force than the wastegate spring, shimmed or not.
And, once the boost over comes the LBE spring, it will have much more force than the wastegate spring, shimmed or not.
09-12-2012, 03:51 AM
#28
Racer
Thread Starter
Why would i want to delete the cycling valve? And how?
I'm getting a stand alone computer and guess the cv is of no use then. But is the boost enhancer any good in that case?
I'm getting a stand alone computer and guess the cv is of no use then. But is the boost enhancer any good in that case?
