Pikington will make saratoga tops Again
05-02-2012, 09:34 AM
#181
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Price is set at $500 each. Per the schedule, we're running a total of 800 units. There are no plans to run the manual version. The tops will have all hardware and new seals fully assembled. PEvans, if you're referring to the double foam seal on the glass, yes, new ones will be on the glass.
05-02-2012, 09:45 AM
#182
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PilkClassics, this is a picture of my Saratoga. I think this is identical to the ones you will produce. You can see the seal on mine is totally gone and the movement of the roof has damaged the paint. Is there a chance I could get a new seal from this production run or have you put a new seal on this roof?
05-02-2012, 09:59 AM
#183
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The rear hatch glass has a metal frame that is bonded to the edge of the glass. The hinge/pin hardware is then attached to the frame, not the glass.
Well, the frame tends to separate from the glass (usually up by one, or both, of the hinges) and will cause the most annoying, incessant metal-on-glass squaking you've ever heard.
Even though I never close the hatch with one hand, I have had to reseal it a few years ago and it is already starting to re-separate...
Well, the frame tends to separate from the glass (usually up by one, or both, of the hinges) and will cause the most annoying, incessant metal-on-glass squaking you've ever heard.
Even though I never close the hatch with one hand, I have had to reseal it a few years ago and it is already starting to re-separate...
He said the glues are much better then they were back in the 80s because of airbags. Some car were having glass blown out of the car when the airbags deployed. Lots of posts in the past with all the step and lists of primmer and glues required if you want to give it a try.
I am going to buy one of the tops, thanks for making the run!!!
05-02-2012, 10:09 AM
#186
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Sort of late to the thread so pardon my laziness for not reading it all. Glass will be only available in Pilkington Optifloat Bronze and not a reflective #1 surface product like Pilkington Mirrorpane T.M. Grey? I've never seen one of these so would also like to know if 4-6mm tempered single or a laminated product? Either way, still interested.
05-02-2012, 10:11 AM
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05-02-2012, 10:23 AM
#188
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Sort of late to the thread so pardon my laziness for not reading it all. Glass will be only available in Pilkington Optifloat Bronze and not a reflective #1 surface product like Pilkington Mirrorpane T.M. Grey? I've never seen one of these so would also like to know if 4-6mm tempered single or a laminated product? Either way, still interested.
05-02-2012, 10:34 AM
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05-02-2012, 10:40 AM
#190
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The rear hatch glass has a metal frame that is bonded to the edge of the glass. The hinge/pin hardware is then attached to the frame, not the glass.
Well, the frame tends to separate from the glass (usually up by one, or both, of the hinges) and will cause the most annoying, incessant metal-on-glass squaking you've ever heard.
Even though I never close the hatch with one hand, I have had to reseal it a few years ago and it is already starting to re-separate...
Well, the frame tends to separate from the glass (usually up by one, or both, of the hinges) and will cause the most annoying, incessant metal-on-glass squaking you've ever heard.
Even though I never close the hatch with one hand, I have had to reseal it a few years ago and it is already starting to re-separate...
My glass guy said the problem was the primer that is applied to the glass before the glue is put on is separating from the glass. The only way to truly fix the problem is to cut out the glass from the frame and reapply the primmer and then glue it together. I had one glass shatter due to a small nick that the saw made as he cut it out so be prepared for that.
He said the glues are much better then they were back in the 80s because of airbags. Some car were having glass blown out of the car when the airbags deployed. Lots of posts in the past with all the step and lists of primmer and glues required if you want to give it a try.
I am going to buy one of the tops, thanks for making the run!!!
He said the glues are much better then they were back in the 80s because of airbags. Some car were having glass blown out of the car when the airbags deployed. Lots of posts in the past with all the step and lists of primmer and glues required if you want to give it a try.
I am going to buy one of the tops, thanks for making the run!!!
Keep in mind, just engineers talking here -- I have no idea what kind of costs are involved in this or how feasible it is. Also need someone adventurous enough to volunteer their rear hatch for an experiment!
05-02-2012, 10:47 AM
#191
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http://www.sterlinglass.com/SOLARCOOL.html
05-02-2012, 10:52 AM
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Let me know if this fixes the problem. I spoke with our Encapsulation Process Engineer yesterday regarding this. If there is a 1mm gap between the glass and frame, we can also run the whole rear hatch unit (glass and frame) through encapsulation and inject molding to the gap.
Keep in mind, just engineers talking here -- I have no idea what kind of costs are involved in this or how feasible it is. Also need someone adventurous enough to volunteer their rear hatch for an experiment!
Keep in mind, just engineers talking here -- I have no idea what kind of costs are involved in this or how feasible it is. Also need someone adventurous enough to volunteer their rear hatch for an experiment!
My glass guy said that he really didn't want to do any more...lots of work to cut out the glass. The gap is not continuous, it appears near the hinges. If you could find a better way to do this with less risk, I am sure you would get customers.
Last edited by Bri Bro; 05-02-2012 at 11:08 AM.
05-02-2012, 12:51 PM
#195
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Can someone please (pretty please, with sugar on top) measure the distance between the rear edge of the glass on their Saratoga top and the center of the hole that holds the rear latch in place?
I think I can convert the manual latches to work but need to know that distance...
I think I can convert the manual latches to work but need to know that distance...
