Notices

951 V8 with Boxter 986/911 996 ABS ----- DONE :-)

 
Old 03-13-2013, 02:13 PM
  #121  
V2Rocket
Rainman
Rennlist Member
 
V2Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 42,800
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Would it even be possible to install such a system on a car that didn't come with ABS at all, nor has any provision for it from factory? Swapping the suspension stuff shouldn't be too bad, but what about wiring/hydraulics?
V2Rocket is offline  
Old 03-16-2013, 03:15 PM
  #122  
TonyG
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Thread Starter
 
TonyG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 5,976
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by V2Rocket_aka944 View Post
Would it even be possible to install such a system on a car that didn't come with ABS at all, nor has any provision for it from factory? Swapping the suspension stuff shouldn't be too bad, but what about wiring/hydraulics?
Yes.

You'd need late offset rear trailing arms with the ABS holes and the ABS stub axles in the rear.

And in the front you'd need the late offset spindles with the ABS holes in them, and the late offset ABS hubs with the ABS rings.

You'd have to make a wiring harness and use the correct pump. I can give you the guy's email that has the pumps and makes the harnesses if you don't want to do it yourself.

And them you'd have to plumb it up which is not difficult. Out from your master cylinders to the ABS pump. From the ABS pump to your wheels . Basically you intercept the lines coming out of your master cylinders and insert the ABS pump.

TonyG
TonyG is offline  
Old 03-16-2013, 04:51 PM
  #123  
333pg333
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
333pg333's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,498
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Wonder how much more difficult this would be with Tilton pedal (no stock mc, slave or booster) setup? Guess pressure is pressure, plumbing is plumbing.
333pg333 is offline  
Old 03-16-2013, 10:49 PM
  #124  
car_slave
User
 
car_slave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 680
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

FYI - at the bottom of this post there is nice wiring diagram for the updated ABS 5.3 unit.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...t-wheel-speed/

Here are a few items I learned from doing this:
You need to connect the the brake light switch wire to get it the function properly. This is signal which is sent to the unit when you press the brake pedal. Also, you'll need to run the engine to get a signal so you can locate the brake light wire with a volt meter.
Another thing I found is that it might not be a good idea on a 968 because the speedometer signal comes off the original ABS computer via the wheel speed sensors.
Hope this helps.
If you are looking for 5.3 pump with wiring connector shoot me a PM. I have one ready to go with a modded mounting bracket.
car_slave is offline  
Old 03-17-2013, 12:45 AM
  #125  
TonyG
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Thread Starter
 
TonyG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 5,976
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 333pg333 View Post
Wonder how much more difficult this would be with Tilton pedal (no stock mc, slave or booster) setup? Guess pressure is pressure, plumbing is plumbing.
No different.

The stock master cylinder is a dual master. The Tilton is the same thing just with the master cylinders separated.

You would still plumb the same way... both master cylinders into the ABS.

Honestly, the Tilton thing really isn't worth the money, especially if you have a good ABS.

I did it because I wanted all of the braking components out of the engine bay. The fact that it has a balance bar is somewhat trivial with the ABS unit.

TonyG
TonyG is offline  
Old 03-17-2013, 01:20 AM
  #126  
Eric_k
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
Eric_k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by car_slave View Post
Here are a few items I learned from doing this:
You need to connect the the brake light switch wire to get it the function properly. This is signal which is sent to the unit when you press the brake pedal. Also, you'll need to run the engine to get a signal so you can locate the brake light wire with a volt meter.
Another thing I found is that it might not be a good idea on a 968 because the speedometer signal comes off the original ABS computer via the wheel speed sensors.
I have a 996 ABS working in my 968. I was intending to add a post once I took out to the track for a real test. I've only done a few street tests so far. I plumbed and wired it so it would be reversible - in case it ends up sucking. But, so far so good.

The speedo signal is not an issue. Pin 23 on the ABS units outputs a speedometer signal. That should go to pin 17 of the 968 ABS connector. The brake light signal is pin 25 on the 968 ABS connector and should go to pin 14 of the ABS. I used a gutted 968 ABS computer to make a jumper from the 968 ABS connector to the 996 ABS plug.
Eric_k is offline  
Old 03-17-2013, 02:31 AM
  #127  
car_slave
User
 
car_slave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 680
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks for the info Eric. I might try it again later this year or next. I ended up putting my original unit back in because I was running out of time. I Need to get a tech inspection done next week. Let me know how it works for you. What wheel/tire size are running? I'm working with stock size stuff, which also makes me wonder if that will be compatible with a 996 unit.
Looking around the web I've seen that a lot of people have switched over to Bosch 5.3 units.
car_slave is offline  
Old 03-17-2013, 04:35 AM
  #128  
333pg333
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
333pg333's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,498
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Mur8phy View Post
I will be definitely looking to do the same if it all proves fine.
^^^SPAM ALERT^^^
333pg333 is offline  
Old 03-17-2013, 04:38 AM
  #129  
333pg333
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
333pg333's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,498
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TonyG View Post
No different.

The stock master cylinder is a dual master. The Tilton is the same thing just with the master cylinders separated.

You would still plumb the same way... both master cylinders into the ABS.

Honestly, the Tilton thing really isn't worth the money, especially if you have a good ABS.

I did it because I wanted all of the braking components out of the engine bay. The fact that it has a balance bar is somewhat trivial with the ABS unit.

TonyG
I did it to remove the stock booster (avoid lockups) and the rest of the hardware. Can still run as it is and for the brief time I used it, it felt great but that was with smaller brakes and less power. Cars I will be up against will have all the mod cons inc Sequential gearboxes. ABS would help me close the gap a little.

Originally Posted by Eric_k View Post
I have a 996 ABS working in my 968. I was intending to add a post once I took out to the track for a real test. I've only done a few street tests so far. I plumbed and wired it so it would be reversible - in case it ends up sucking. But, so far so good.

The speedo signal is not an issue. Pin 23 on the ABS units outputs a speedometer signal. That should go to pin 17 of the 968 ABS connector. The brake light signal is pin 25 on the 968 ABS connector and should go to pin 14 of the ABS. I used a gutted 968 ABS computer to make a jumper from the 968 ABS connector to the 996 ABS plug.
Definitely keep us in the loop Eric. You should do a thread on this. How much 4 do you have into this conversion so far if you don't mind me asking?

Last edited by 333pg333; 03-17-2013 at 05:18 AM.
333pg333 is offline  
Old 03-20-2013, 02:54 AM
  #130  
Eric_k
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
Eric_k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Less than $300. The pump with connector was found cheap on ebay plus some brake line and fittings.
Eric_k is offline  
Old 03-20-2013, 03:24 AM
  #131  
Eric_k
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
Eric_k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by car_slave View Post
What wheel/tire size are running?
I'm currently running 275/40-17 on all 4.
Eric_k is offline  
Old 04-30-2013, 03:39 AM
  #132  
Eric_k
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
Eric_k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I finally had a chance to use the ABS in anger this weekend. I changed a few things on the car over the winter so it is hard to quantitatively say how much improvement is the ABS itself but the lap times definitely went down. I improved my personal best by 1.7 seconds on a relatively short Portland track. I got down to a 1:14.4 without the chicane. I can say the ABS felt much improved. My sense was that I could use more brake before ABS engaged and when it was engaged it was less intrusive and not as "chunky". It's certainly not the ultimate in ABS but a nice bang for the buck improvement. Here is video of my best qualifying lap:

I used an ABS unit from a earlier 996 (996.355.755.03). It is just ABS, no traction control, PSM or anything else on the unit. In order not to cut into the car's wiring harness, I used a spare 968 ABS brain and gutted it. I then mapped the pins from the 968 connector to the 996 connector. Everything you need is already going to the 968 connector or the connector at the stock pump. My car is a 968 so there are likely some subtle wiring differences but it should be similar to the 951 wiring. Now the zombie 968 brain is the jumper between the stock wiring and the 996 pump. I also made jumpers in the brake lines to go from stock line to the relocated ports on the 996 unit. I also wired up a ODBII connector but I haven't tested it yet. For reference, the car has big reds on the front and the stock rears with a tilton adjustable bias valve.


Thanks to Tony for blazing the path.




Eric_k is offline  
Old 04-30-2013, 04:17 AM
  #133  
333pg333
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
333pg333's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,498
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Great work Eric and you look like you've stepped up a gear on the track. Fast and controlled. Looks awesome!

btw, what axles and CVs are you using? Have you had any issues with them?
333pg333 is offline  
Old 04-30-2013, 01:59 PM
  #134  
Eric_k
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
Eric_k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Stock axles. I haven't had any issues with them - yet.
Eric_k is offline  
Old 07-21-2013, 06:27 PM
  #135  
Peedster
User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sweden
Posts: 338
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Q about the ABS cables running from fender to the ABS pump.

My car is an 87 without ABS. I looked today and what is needed from the ABS sensor to the ABS pump?
My brake pad warning cables look exactly the same as the ABS cables? Do i need something more here?

Also, is it possible and fairly easy to drill and tap the spindles and rear traling arm for the sensors?
This way i only need new hubs front and rear.

What about upgrading to the boxster sensors? Are these supposed to be any better than the 20 year old 944/968?

/P
Peedster is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: 951 V8 with Boxter 986/911 996 ABS ----- DONE :-)


Contact Us - About Us - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: