Head stud is pulling out, won't torque
#16
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Looks like 12x1.5. Anyone verify this is the block side thread size?
Is 16mm depth going to work?
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product
Is 16mm depth going to work?
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product
#17
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The threads are M12X1.5
I just checked my studs, and they're threaded 20mm into the block. The block will allow about 30mm of engagement and my studs (raceware) are threaded 35mm. This is on a 968 block though, there may be differences in thread engagement due to changes in the water jacket level between it and the 944 block.
Best way for you to check, is remove the stud, measure its total length, subtract the install height of the other studs. This will give the thread engagement amount.
I just checked my studs, and they're threaded 20mm into the block. The block will allow about 30mm of engagement and my studs (raceware) are threaded 35mm. This is on a 968 block though, there may be differences in thread engagement due to changes in the water jacket level between it and the 944 block.
Best way for you to check, is remove the stud, measure its total length, subtract the install height of the other studs. This will give the thread engagement amount.
#18
ouch
I´ve been there "twice"
i have repaired it with both helicoils and a home made insert http://www.garaget.org/mypage/galler...7&image=942871
i vote for time serts, much easier than helicoils.
i made a special tool to mount the helicoil.
The problem is to drill out the old threads and tap for new ones and you have the closest one to the fire wall, it´s gonna be tight.
I´ve been there "twice"
i have repaired it with both helicoils and a home made insert http://www.garaget.org/mypage/galler...7&image=942871
i vote for time serts, much easier than helicoils.
i made a special tool to mount the helicoil.
The problem is to drill out the old threads and tap for new ones and you have the closest one to the fire wall, it´s gonna be tight.
#19
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The threads are M12X1.5
I just checked my studs, and they're threaded 20mm into the block. The block will allow about 30mm of engagement and my studs (raceware) are threaded 35mm. This is on a 968 block though, there may be differences in thread engagement due to changes in the water jacket level between it and the 944 block.
Best way for you to check, is remove the stud, measure its total length, subtract the install height of the other studs. This will give the thread engagement amount.
I just checked my studs, and they're threaded 20mm into the block. The block will allow about 30mm of engagement and my studs (raceware) are threaded 35mm. This is on a 968 block though, there may be differences in thread engagement due to changes in the water jacket level between it and the 944 block.
Best way for you to check, is remove the stud, measure its total length, subtract the install height of the other studs. This will give the thread engagement amount.
Anyone have a tool kit laying around I could borrow so I can buy the inserts at $10.
#20
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#21
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#22
Three Wheelin'
Not positive, but would this be a tool that Napa or any other autoparts store might have?
Maybe put an ad on your local craigslist to see if a mobile mechanic in the area has the tools.
Maybe put an ad on your local craigslist to see if a mobile mechanic in the area has the tools.
#23
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Did the stud finally come out (in one piece)? I've measured a number of blocks and have seen several variations in terms of head stud hole and thread depth, so you'll want to measure carefully to set the TimeSert at the right depth. For what it's worth TimeSert lists longer inserts on its website (16.2, 24, and 30mm long), though 16mm is already longer than the nut on top. You want the stud to stand about 71-71mm's above the deck surface, so that should be your guide for where to put the insert. You could also call around to see if there is a machine shop set up to do this for you with the motor in the car if you tow it in. Of course, the last time I took a block to a machine shop to remove a snapped stud they screwed it all up and I swore I'd never trust a machine shop to this kind of thing again...
http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html
http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html
#24
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Yeah, they list longer inserts, but are the tools in the basic kit long enough or do I need to get the head kit to reach down in there far enough is my question.
#25
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I don't know. I can tell you that you'll want to get the bottom of the insert at least 118mm below the surface of the deck (so that the 190mm stud will sit 72mm above the surface). I would probably call Time Sert on Tuesday and ask what they suggest. I see they make skinny tap sockets, presumably for this reason, and assume that would work -- but I'd think they would be the best to tell you how to get that deep.
#26
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Yeah, here's the basic kit at $90
And the head kit. Which has a centering bushing (top) to keep it square in the hole. And you can get an idea of length difference also. I found the kit online for $339.
I just don't have any confidence that I can get by with less than the full kit.
And the head kit. Which has a centering bushing (top) to keep it square in the hole. And you can get an idea of length difference also. I found the kit online for $339.
I just don't have any confidence that I can get by with less than the full kit.
#27
Drifting
You should be able to use a standard tap extension. The other possibility is a tap socket. One of these should get it done.
Last edited by Chris Prack; 12-31-2011 at 06:56 PM. Reason: poor grammar :)
#28
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Or what you may have to do is fab up a sacrificial tool set. Weld on an extension to the drill, tap and insert tool. You can get tool steel at an industrial steel supply. M2 is high speed stock used for most cutting tools manufactured. I would take this to a pro welder and have him tig weld all of it. Anyway it's worth taking a shot at something vs. pulling the motor out and tearing it down.
#29
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Pulled the stud. Looks like it was already repaired with a time sert but they didn't use the right depth insert. Looks like I have to go with a big sert kit.