my head job pics
10-17-2002, 04:03 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
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my head job pics
Off with the head!
Closeup of the cylinders. Excellent condition. Very clean thanks to the oil coming from the turbo!
Pink turbo. Color's from the red hose that was used to strap on the air filter, or the oil from the K&N.
Good look at the entire turbo. Rarely see it with the Intake Manifold in the way.
Stock headgasket. Temporary for the Saturday track day, engine's opening up again after that to grout the block and widefire/o-ring again.
Huntley's widefire headgasket. Notice the pitting at the inner edge due to detonation during tuning and overboosting
. Everything after the O-Ring was in perfect shape.
10-17-2002, 04:03 PM
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One of the burnt valves. Very minor damage, probably due to wear and tear, and not the big overboost that was experienced Monday.
The head. In excellent condition.
Closeup of the head. No pitting even from the abuse we gave the motor.
10-17-2002, 04:07 PM
#3
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Glad to hear the damage was minor.
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" /> <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" /> <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
10-17-2002, 04:26 PM
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Yep, I'm very happy too. Looks like I'm getting close to a reliable big hp car. Everything looks to be in great shape!
Hope the car can be ready for Saturday, would really love to get those Koni's dialed in.
Hope the car can be ready for Saturday, would really love to get those Koni's dialed in.
10-17-2002, 06:05 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by PorscheG96:
<strong>How did you take the timing belt off of the cam gear without loosening the belt tensioner? Your belt cover is still on...
What's 'grouting' the block?</strong><hr></blockquote>
I'll have to let Marc explain that one when he reads the post. As for grouting the block, I'll let master Danno explain below :
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=15&t=004912" target="_blank">http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=15&t=004912</a>
<strong>How did you take the timing belt off of the cam gear without loosening the belt tensioner? Your belt cover is still on...
What's 'grouting' the block?</strong><hr></blockquote>
I'll have to let Marc explain that one when he reads the post. As for grouting the block, I'll let master Danno explain below :
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=15&t=004912" target="_blank">http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=15&t=004912</a>
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10-18-2002, 08:05 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by tazman:
<strong>Are you goin to add the deck-bracing also?</strong><hr></blockquote>
That'll be decided this winter after more investigation. In the meantime, here's pics of the newly cleaned up and rebuilt head. All new hardware!
<strong>Are you goin to add the deck-bracing also?</strong><hr></blockquote>
That'll be decided this winter after more investigation. In the meantime, here's pics of the newly cleaned up and rebuilt head. All new hardware!
10-18-2002, 09:31 PM
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rage2,
Nice job on the pictorial. This is my project for the winter. I'm curious like PorscheG96 who wrote:
[quote] How did you take the timing belt off of the cam gear without loosening the belt tensioner? Your belt cover is still on... <hr></blockquote>
Is it possible to reinstall the timing belt without retensioning with a high degree of confidence for short-term use (enough to drive 10 miles to my P-car mechanic for an "official check")?
Separately, can you help me understand what special tools I will need for the project? Some that come to mind include:
1) flywheel lock
2) stud remover for block (exhaust and head studs)
3) stud installer for block (are Raceware studs worth the extra $$ if I'm using the stock turbo?)
4) long allen extension for removing cam tower
5) good size 1/2" drive breaker bar for torquing head nuts
Nice job on the pictorial. This is my project for the winter. I'm curious like PorscheG96 who wrote:
[quote] How did you take the timing belt off of the cam gear without loosening the belt tensioner? Your belt cover is still on... <hr></blockquote>
Is it possible to reinstall the timing belt without retensioning with a high degree of confidence for short-term use (enough to drive 10 miles to my P-car mechanic for an "official check")?
Separately, can you help me understand what special tools I will need for the project? Some that come to mind include:
1) flywheel lock
2) stud remover for block (exhaust and head studs)
3) stud installer for block (are Raceware studs worth the extra $$ if I'm using the stock turbo?)
4) long allen extension for removing cam tower
5) good size 1/2" drive breaker bar for torquing head nuts
10-18-2002, 10:37 PM
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I know you asked rage but I have a minute so I'll give it a shot from my experiance.
For a head job:
1: flywheel lock isn't really necessary (but it's absulutely necessary for anything that involves taking all the crank pulleys off)
2: stud puller helps things greatly but is also very uncessary. It might save you 40 mins if your studs are really stubburn. Two nuts will work just fine.
3: stud installer? never heard of one. My stud puller was reversible, again usefull but not necessary.
4: long alan wrench, or a thin enough socket/extension are unfortunately something you have to have.
5: breaker bar is not needed if you can do 5 pushups and weigh over 100lbs! A good torque wrench is ofcourse very usefull here.
Folks, stuff like headwork should be done in one or two days max unless there's a lot of "custom" work being done. I had a head done with 5 bent and one burnt valve in one day, and that included port matching as well as polishing. That's how things are supposed to be done!
Ahmet
For a head job:
1: flywheel lock isn't really necessary (but it's absulutely necessary for anything that involves taking all the crank pulleys off)
2: stud puller helps things greatly but is also very uncessary. It might save you 40 mins if your studs are really stubburn. Two nuts will work just fine.
3: stud installer? never heard of one. My stud puller was reversible, again usefull but not necessary.
4: long alan wrench, or a thin enough socket/extension are unfortunately something you have to have.
5: breaker bar is not needed if you can do 5 pushups and weigh over 100lbs! A good torque wrench is ofcourse very usefull here.
Folks, stuff like headwork should be done in one or two days max unless there's a lot of "custom" work being done. I had a head done with 5 bent and one burnt valve in one day, and that included port matching as well as polishing. That's how things are supposed to be done!
Ahmet
10-18-2002, 11:33 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
Rage, would you recommend O ringing for street use (15+/- PSI boost) or do you think it's unnecessary as Danno has suggested in his HG dissertation. How much does this cost? Also would like to know whether Raceware studs are worth the $. Thanks