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#$%?&? Friggin' Control-arm ball-joint rebuild...the saga continues!

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Old 07-08-2003, 08:25 PM
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951Porschiste
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Post #$%?&? Friggin' Control-arm ball-joint rebuild...the saga continues!

I've decided to rebuild my control-arms using Travis' kit. I'm following both Clark's Garage's and RacerX's (Danno) tutorial on removing the balljoints. One of the steps is to put the assembly in a vise and squeeze to allow removal of the lower circlip. Well I'm squeezin' and it ain't movin' @#%$?&* <img border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" title="" src="graemlins/cussing.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" title="" src="graemlins/cussing.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" title="" src="graemlins/cussing.gif" />
Not even by half a millimeter.

Any help will be appreciated. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Anybody else encounter such difficulty. Will I need a #@%@$#? hydraulic press to get the @#@%@$%?% balljoint out?

Sorry, I needed the venting...

Please help
Old 07-08-2003, 08:44 PM
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Travis - sflraver
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no, it doesnt take a lot of pressure to compress the joint. To much pressure and you could crack the aluminum. Did you place a socket over the ball shaft so it is resting on the aluminum lip with the ball shaft inside of it? Then you clamp between the socket and the lower plate.

As far as taking the stock ring out goes, the clamping may not be of much assistance to you. Most people just work at the clip with two small screwdrivers until it pops loose.
Old 07-08-2003, 08:49 PM
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951Porschiste
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Travis - sflraver:
<strong>no, it doesnt take a lot of pressure to compress the joint. To much pressure and you could crack the aluminum. Did you place a socket over the ball shaft so it is resting on the aluminum lip with the ball shaft inside of it? Then you clamp between the socket and the lower plate.

As far as taking the stock ring out goes, the clamping may not be of much assistance to you. Most people just work at the clip with two small screwdrivers until it pops loose.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Yes, socket position as per instructions.
No, I can't even get a small screwdriver in there.

If the balljoint assembly is not moving at all, what is that a symptom of?

I'll try and take a picture and post soon.
Old 07-08-2003, 09:05 PM
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Travis - sflraver
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That could mean that the original grease has dried out and hardened. I have seen it before where its blocked up solid.

The trick to the lower clip is as follows....

clean the gunk / epoxy out from the bottom
find the opening of the clip
use screwdriver 1 to apply pressure to one side of the opening on the clip.
Now pry at the other side of the opening with screwdriver 2 trying to pull it inwards away from the side.
once its in a little try to wedge that screwdriver between it an the aluminum.
work it around until the clip falls off.

or there is the other way. Just use the drimmel tool to grind the ring in half on the opposite side from the opening. It will come apart in two pieces and they you throw the damn thing away. Thats what it always comes down to with me and also why I include new clips in the kits. New clips with snap ring holes.
Old 07-08-2003, 09:22 PM
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adrial
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When I did mine, it took a decent amount of force IMO and the grease was in perfect shape when I got it all apart. Make sure all the epoxy is outta there. I ended up using a 32mm socket and found that to be a perfect fit, though I'm sure this varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.

As for the clip, I found that it using a screwdriver to spin it around helped break it free. I then used 1 medium screwdriver and dug it into the clip and used friction to pull it out a bit. Eventually I'd get it out far enough..and stick a small screw driver in there. After that, its cake. To clarify, I managed to get the clip out by clamping the thing in a vise as described at Clark's garage and working at the clip.

You're using a smallish socket on the side of the lower plate to push in, correct? The socket is centered?

Good luck!
Old 07-08-2003, 09:38 PM
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Travis - sflraver:
<strong>That could mean that the original grease has dried out and hardened. I have seen it before where its blocked up solid.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Plenty of grease:
<img src="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Photos951105800X600.JPG" alt=" - " />

Once I cleaned out the grease this is what I found:

<img src="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Photos951106800X600arr.JPG" alt=" - " />

Notice the greenish nylon protruding out on the edge of the balljoint (see red arrow). Could it be that the balljoint assembly was originally overcompressed and thus the nylon bushing extruded. Could this explain why I can't squeeze the friggin' assembly at all?
Old 07-08-2003, 09:44 PM
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Also I can't move the circlip at all. When I removed the epoxy stuff on the lower portion there was lot of rust underneath:

<img src="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Photos951095800X600.JPG" alt=" - " />

Could I try spraying WD40 in there or some other rust penetrating oil to loosen the circlip somewhat?
Old 07-08-2003, 10:05 PM
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could just be gauling from age or poor materials if it was rebuilt before.

Lots of WD40.

If you have to over bend the clip and break it to get it out. Remember you do have new ones in your kit.

If it was rebuilt, the person may have put the spring in upside down then just forced it in. Remember the small part goes down. Also , the bump on the lower plate, does it go in or out. It needs to be coming out and if its not , its in upside down which would put more force on the joint.
Old 07-08-2003, 10:11 PM
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Travis - sflraver:
<strong>
If it was rebuilt, the person may have put the spring in upside down then just forced it in. Remember the small part goes down. Also , the bump on the lower plate, does it go in or out. It needs to be coming out and if its not , its in upside down which would put more force on the joint.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">The picture does not show it very well, but the bump goes IN. So you are saying that this was put in upside down?

I'll be spraying that old WD40 in there and hope for it to work overnight.
Old 07-08-2003, 10:35 PM
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it looks like at some point someone installed a zurk fitting in there. Thats why the hole is there. and they may have put the plate in upside down. If you look a the pic on rennbay you see I have a zurk fitting in that one also but the bump still faces down.
Old 07-08-2003, 10:36 PM
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by the bump going in it's just going to put that much more pressure on the plate and the joint. This is why the bushings is coming out the top.
Old 07-08-2003, 10:41 PM
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Travis - sflraver:
<strong>by the bump going in it's just going to put that much more pressure on the plate and the joint. This is why the bushings is coming out the top.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Yeah makes sense. Thanks a million. When I'm done with this you'll have a very thorough tutorial. I've sprayed the WD40. I'll let it soak overnight, I'll keep you posted tomorrow. Again thanks, I'm sure you've got plenty other interesting things to do than answering my newbie mechanic questions... <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />
Old 07-08-2003, 10:45 PM
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whith Adrial's and yours we should get something great to post to the tutorials secion.
Old 07-09-2003, 04:13 AM
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Danno
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Yes, that bump on the plate should be facing outwards. This gives room for the spring and a dime-sized washer, which should be left off if you're going to install a zerk-fitting.
Old 07-09-2003, 10:07 PM
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Well, 24 hours later and I was finally able to remove the circlip. The WD40 didn't do much. It was still stuck in there. I decided to drill it out. Took me a full hour and 4 or 5 drill bits. When I removed the remains of the clip, the bottom cover was very easy to remove. Underneath was a second cover plate and underneath that was the nylon bushing assembly without any spring in there. Here's a picture:
<img src="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Photos951117800X600.JPG" alt=" - " />

Can anyone please tell what kind of balljoint assembly that is?

Oh!BTW it's alos stuck in there <img border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" title="" src="graemlins/cussing.gif" />


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