Cost/hours to R&R 951 rod bearings and reseal engine?
#16
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The recent replies are making me feel a little bit better. My turbo is at 126k and I thought about having the bearings done while it was in the shop, but didn't when the shop thought they sounded/looked fine. No race tires for me yet, but I will definately get an Accusump before I do. Was part of my plan already, but Carter's opinion just cemented it.
I run Redline oil all the time now, I've found it keeps the oil pressue up better than Mobil 1, even on the track . . but I'll still get the Accusump. Relatively cheap insurance
I run Redline oil all the time now, I've found it keeps the oil pressue up better than Mobil 1, even on the track . . but I'll still get the Accusump. Relatively cheap insurance
#17
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by Chris Prack:
<strong>FWIW, we get 15 hrs. on the clutch and about 20 on rod bearings.
Sounds like a lot of work for less than 90k.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">So Ed can save 5-7 hours of labor if he has you do the clutch? That's a savings of $325 to maybe $500 depending on the exact rate! I was originally taking my car to the shop I believe Ed uses, and the amount of work suggested for my original owner 82k mile car was mind boggling. I would also suggest that he requests ALL old parts back -- every last gasket, hose, and belt. Enough said.
<strong>FWIW, we get 15 hrs. on the clutch and about 20 on rod bearings.
Sounds like a lot of work for less than 90k.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">So Ed can save 5-7 hours of labor if he has you do the clutch? That's a savings of $325 to maybe $500 depending on the exact rate! I was originally taking my car to the shop I believe Ed uses, and the amount of work suggested for my original owner 82k mile car was mind boggling. I would also suggest that he requests ALL old parts back -- every last gasket, hose, and belt. Enough said.
#18
Last time I checked, I thought the labor rate book for a complete rebuild of an engine listed 40 hours, including main bearings, rings and all... I am not bashing your mechanic, but I would ask a few more questions.
Also, it may be peace of mind for you to do the rod bearings, but unless its been tracked hard while its been two to three quarts short of oil, I bet they look brand new. The accusump idea is a very good one, and if you are going to have your engine apart, I would suggest looking at getting the crank cross-drilled for better oiling (check out Huntleys web site, he has a really good write-up on it).
Regards,
Also, it may be peace of mind for you to do the rod bearings, but unless its been tracked hard while its been two to three quarts short of oil, I bet they look brand new. The accusump idea is a very good one, and if you are going to have your engine apart, I would suggest looking at getting the crank cross-drilled for better oiling (check out Huntleys web site, he has a really good write-up on it).
Regards,
#19
Three Wheelin'
Unless the oil pan gasket is leaking I would not worry about the rod bearings. I recently rebuilt my 152k mile engine and the bearings were all in good shape, cylinder walls were a different story.
The accusump is a good idea, and I would add an extra/larger oil cooler to that idea. The oil in these cars gets very hot at the track. One guy posted track oil temps of 280 degrees F. Not sure if that was leaving or entering temps. Something worth considering anyway.
I thought the book rate for a clutch was 14 or so
hours. I can do it without a lift in 20-22.
The accusump is a good idea, and I would add an extra/larger oil cooler to that idea. The oil in these cars gets very hot at the track. One guy posted track oil temps of 280 degrees F. Not sure if that was leaving or entering temps. Something worth considering anyway.
I thought the book rate for a clutch was 14 or so
hours. I can do it without a lift in 20-22.
#20
Drifting
Russ and Keith,
Approximately how many track hours did you guys put on your engines before you replaced the Rod Bearings?
I have 142k miles on mine and I'm not sure if it's ever been tracked. However, there is a PCA sticker on the window.
BTW, I get upwards of 4 Bar of oil pressure when I'm on the throttle, 5 Bar when the engine is cold, and the needle fluctuates (flutters) around 3 Bar at idle when the motor is warm.
Thanks in advance.
Approximately how many track hours did you guys put on your engines before you replaced the Rod Bearings?
I have 142k miles on mine and I'm not sure if it's ever been tracked. However, there is a PCA sticker on the window.
BTW, I get upwards of 4 Bar of oil pressure when I'm on the throttle, 5 Bar when the engine is cold, and the needle fluctuates (flutters) around 3 Bar at idle when the motor is warm.
Thanks in advance.
#21
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Thanks for the commentary, folks. I think I'll pass on the rod bearings. The clutch job does include some extras (seal fixes on trans). I've been under the car and have seen the oil leaks, which are rather extensive and do seem to warrant the seal work.
I've used these guys for a good long time and have a high level of trust, but would be glad to hear from you Flight_951 if you care to guess where I'm going :-)
I've used these guys for a good long time and have a high level of trust, but would be glad to hear from you Flight_951 if you care to guess where I'm going :-)
#24
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OK, I'll come clean. The car is at Redline in Purcellville - I drive by Curry's every day, but I live 1.5 miles from Redline. Every shop has its share of horror stories, and I've heard one about my guys but in 7+ years haven't found them to have wronged me. They're not cheap, but they are accurate in my experience. What I've found most useful about this discussion is not that the hours are or are not out of line, but have gotten a better perspective about what's essential and what's not. If money were no object, I'd go whole hog.
Michael2e: The Canton Accusump is available at fine race suppliers everywhere. About $250+ for a 3 quart unit with an electric valve. Paragon-products.com has a writeup on installation in a 944, using the spare tire well. My car does a lot of street duty, would have to think about where to safely mount 3 quarts of hot oil.
Michael2e: The Canton Accusump is available at fine race suppliers everywhere. About $250+ for a 3 quart unit with an electric valve. Paragon-products.com has a writeup on installation in a 944, using the spare tire well. My car does a lot of street duty, would have to think about where to safely mount 3 quarts of hot oil.