boost gauge line routing issue...anybody have a secret method?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
boost gauge line routing issue...anybody have a secret method?
So I'm sitting in the dark trying to get my boost gauge (a-pillar from lo-tec) mounted and installed, and I'm just driving myself nuts trying to route the pressure line through the damn dash...anybody have a secret here? Seems like with all the wiring and electronics under the dash, I'm feeding the line into a loop...
Help?!? Muchas gracias in advance
Help?!? Muchas gracias in advance
#2
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Jason,, I used the hard line vacuum line for this. Mercedes Dealership has a decent price. I drilled a small hole by the fuse box, easy to get to under the drivers side, used a grommet to seal it, then brought it up by the side of the dash and into the A-pillar. I didn't like the idea of T'ing off the KLR line for boost. I T'd into a the fuel pressure reg and brought a line over from there. Assorted fittings needed can be found at Home Depot,,brass.
#3
Instructor
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Columbus, OH
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T-ing off the line under the passenger foot well is going to give you an easier and cleaner install. I did it this way and can't see any downside to doing so. I'd be more afraid of T-ing off the fuel pressure regulator, if you develop a leak there it might cause a lean mixture under boost. That is if I understand how our FPRs work.
Chris
'86 951
Chris
'86 951
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
I have no qualms about T-ing off the KLR line, I'm just having trouble getting the f-ing hardline down from the pillar through the dash...did y'all remove the dash for this, or the gauges, or something that I'm not thinking of, or did you just try and try and try and try and try until that stupid hard line (mine came from autometer in a loop, making it even more fun) came out the bottom of the dash?
#5
Race Director
Try this:
1. straighten out a small coat-hanger wire and make a small 3mm loop at one end.
2. tie some string to this loop.
3. thread other end of coat-hanger through dash to passenger side
4. pull string through
5. duct-tape hard vacuum line to string and pull through...
1. straighten out a small coat-hanger wire and make a small 3mm loop at one end.
2. tie some string to this loop.
3. thread other end of coat-hanger through dash to passenger side
4. pull string through
5. duct-tape hard vacuum line to string and pull through...
#6
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If you have a leak at the FPR the fuel pressure will increase that is why you should set it static. I don't like the KLR line because of the same "if it leaked" then your computer doesn't see all of the boost if you overboost for some unknown reason, but that's just me.
#7
Nordschleife Master
[quote]Originally posted by Ski:
<strong>If you have a leak at the FPR the fuel pressure will increase that is why you should set it static. I don't like the KLR line because of the same "if it leaked" then your computer doesn't see all of the boost if you overboost for some unknown reason, but that's just me.</strong><hr></blockquote>
I figure you have an aftermarket boost controller of some sort? and chips?
So even if the DME/KLR see's overboost...there's nothing it can/wants to do.
<strong>If you have a leak at the FPR the fuel pressure will increase that is why you should set it static. I don't like the KLR line because of the same "if it leaked" then your computer doesn't see all of the boost if you overboost for some unknown reason, but that's just me.</strong><hr></blockquote>
I figure you have an aftermarket boost controller of some sort? and chips?
So even if the DME/KLR see's overboost...there's nothing it can/wants to do.
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#8
I'll second Bret's support of installing a T off the FPR. I just went through this last week. You don't have to cut any existing lines if you T off the FPR and you can use the existing zip ties along the firewall running it over to the passenger side. No worries of a KLR leak. There's a small gap between the left (pass. side) fender and rubber firewall strip where the line can rest without worry of the hood crimping it. A small slice in the rubber grommet adjacent to the fuse box will serve as your entry point into the driver's footwell.