Best way to 300 rwhp
 

Hi all, I am new to the boards, but hope to be purchasing a 944 within a year. I am curious about what the best way to 300 rwhp is. By best I mean:
- reliablility
- cost
- engine characteristics (idle, etc)

From looking at the board, I am thinking upgraded Turbo, MAF, and Fuel injectors?
What would this cost, and what kind of reliablity would I be looking at with this setup?

I just posted a similar question. I hope you have better luck.

Im goin' with a SFR stage 2 turbo and a modern performance MAF. I had some awsome intercooler pipes made by "Sean951".

:)

SFR stage 2 = $1199
Modern performance MAF = $575
intercooler pipes = $230
Will need k27 chips though

Cool, thanks for the reply :)

Looks like neither of us had too much luck, but I will do some digging around the boards to see if I can find more

A chipped S 944t will get you 285Hp, but that is 250hp at the wheels but it is easy and not too expensive. Increasing the handeling is also getting more bang for your buck as the 944t was not meant to be a dragster. More hp without lsd is silly anyway.

Can't remember who said it but surely applies to us:

Want a sweet ride, pick any 2 of the following:

PERFORMANCE...RELIABILITY...INEXPENSIVE

Can't have all three! :cool:

Good Luck, Mike

My mechanic says the same applying it to repairs.....

You can have your repair done....

RIGHT, FAST, CHEAP

pick 2....

i think that was a technodyne ad!?!

Citanul,

MAF, larger turbo, adj. fuel pressure regulator, cat testpipe, chips,boost controller will get you 300 RWHP, no problem with idle or reliability. The first 50 or so hp is cheap after that not so cheap.

Check with speedforceracing.com, huntleyracing.com and there are others.

I have all of the bolt ons and believe me power is addictive, so now I am saving up for a 500RWHP motor from Scott Gomes

My two cents would be this.
For the S model

K27/6 Turbo 900.00
MSD Mgmt 900.00
Test Pipe 200.00
100 octane 4.00 gal
1.1 bar boost
Air/fuel meter 99.00
Dyno tune 100.00

This should do it !

On pump gas (at least 91 octane) 300 rwhp is not realistic for reliable operation unless you have all the goodies. After all you're looking at 18 or so psi with everything pretty much optimized to get that kind of power. Sorry - thats the truth. You have 2.5 liters, only 4 cylinders, an old style 8-valve head, and a limited range of tuning. Power is not the 951s forte, at least not without a lot of cash.

For a lot of money you can get all the goodies and make that kind of power reliably. This includes a performance rebuilt head with correct studs, wfr headgasket, ball bearing turbo, proper injectors, boost pipes, tunable MAF, real wastegate, lightened flywheel, cat bypass, muffler, etc, etc.

To be honest with you though, 18k in a 951 ( a non S that is) is pretty ridiculous. Don't ask me how but i almost was there. Personally, I'd get an older 911 Turbo instead and poney up a couple more bucks.

If you want to make the 944 T move, go for chips for 250 horse at the wheel with an S and about 230-240 with a normal turbo if its a daily driver and you are not Donald Trump.

There's nothing here that money can't fix...

I think you can make that HP and more and do it reliable,,,to many are doing it with dyno sheets to prove it. If you think 951 parts are expensive then you haven't priced 911 or 928 parts. And when you own these cars, no matter your budget, you justify and do what you want.

I will have right at $15k(mint 87, 74k original) in my car at the end of February when we are finished with the head and turbo. Boost from 14-18 psi, with WF and new fasteners, should range the car from 275 - 310 rwhp.

LRacinig....wastegate/manual controller, stage I intercooler, Kokeln intake, Kokeln Stage I turbo, Stage II head, updated APE chips, AFPR, 47# injectors, 3" s.s. exhaust.

The problem with the big turbo is transitional response. The problem rears its ugly head on the street and I guess I should have made that more clear. You notice it the most after driving a modded 951 with a stock turbo.

On a dyno you may make full boost at 3000 rpm (I did with a TO4E), but the transitional response is noticeably slower than a stock K26/6. This shows up most noticeably on an autocross course. To me, the lag is also a big sacrifice for street driving. Additionally, to appreciate the big turbo's effectiveness you need to run high boost (above 15 psi). This puts more stress on the motor and ups the octane requirement.

Anyway, at least on 91 octane 300 at the wheels is gonna be a stretch without some serious money in aftermarket parts. You also have to be very careful about constantly monitoring the mixture, headgasket condition, and plug color when running this amount of power. I myself made 285 at the wheels on pump gas before the wastegate. That doesn't mean that i wasn't squinting hoping my motor would stay together.

On the other hand, 15k in a mint low mileage 951 with the amount of mods that you have is not a bad deal at all. My car had 200k and needed paint. That kind of money in my car was scaring me.

I disagree with others in that for street driving, increasing the spring rates, changing shocks, etc does not noticably decrease the ride quality.

I had 275# front and 28 mm rear torsions with Koni yellows and the ride was rough compared with a stock 951. I'd keep it close to stock.

Aka 951,

Y ball bearing......I have been told from many sources that a single bearing(like pretty much all BB turbos for the 951) Will display no benifits on the street compared to a garret of the same manner>

My buddy's got 400# springs in the front with coil overs from Morris Dampers.
400# is still VERY comfortable.