89 turbo brake pad for heavy street use
04-17-2011, 04:59 PM
#47
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so I took it out for some heavier break in 120 -20 did a few of them it is quiet now even when it cooled off
we will see what tomorrow brings!
we will see what tomorrow brings!
04-18-2011, 02:15 PM
#48
Instructor
You really want to get them hot enough that you start to smell them, then keep driving to cool them down so they don't glaze over. When the pads are bedded in properly, you'll have a silver/blue tint on the rotors. The pad transfer can wear off gradually too if you don't get the pads hot enough once in awhile.
04-22-2011, 02:06 PM
#50
Three Wheelin'
I took my pads off the other day to look at them but there were no manufacture marks, just a number that I forgot to write down before reassembling. I'll look again and write it down this time and try and track down what they are (I love how easy it is to change pads on this car...). Maybe you'd want to trade a pair you have for these if these have a lot of meat left on them? They're M030 pads, look fairly thick but I need to measure to see how much wear is on them. If nothing else maybe you could then pinpoint if the rotors are the culprit or the pads. I'm not currently driving the car so I can do without brake pads for a little while...
I think we've all been mad at these cars one time or another, just walk away from it for a week and come back with a fresh mindset. Squeaky brakes is no reason to get rid of the whole car, it's like chopping off an arm to save a finger.
I think we've all been mad at these cars one time or another, just walk away from it for a week and come back with a fresh mindset. Squeaky brakes is no reason to get rid of the whole car, it's like chopping off an arm to save a finger.
04-22-2011, 10:58 PM
#52
Rennlist Member
No need. Just rebed whatever pads and you'll be fine. I strongly suggest you get a set of OEM Textar pads. No noise and they stop the car extremely well.
04-22-2011, 11:22 PM
#53
Rennlist Member
Go down to auto zone and get some break grease and apply it to the back of the pad. Do you still have the brake shims? These are required. Also if you change brake compounds it is highly recommended to turn your rotors to remove the old compound. A lot of the time the compounds are incompatible.
If none of this works, ear plugs and drive the people next to you in line crazy.
If none of this works, ear plugs and drive the people next to you in line crazy.
04-23-2011, 09:33 AM
#54
Track Day
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I have used both the PBR metal masters and ultimate as well as Hawk HPs.
All will and can squeal.
When you use shims (either the original or you can get the "snap in" type Porsche started using on 993s) they must be "bonded" to your pad (this changes harmonics of the pad by linking it with the caliper).
The 951 shop manual says to use some kind of double sided tape for the original 951 shims.
My preference (lower cost and weight) is the 993 type shim.
See: http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/1...%20Damper.aspx
When these are new, they come with an adhesive and a peal off cover. I reuse these shims with the orange disc brake quiet (C.R.C. brand ) stuff (basically high temp glue).
Also, you should use a file to camfer the leading and trailing edges (start with leading), about 1/2 in, 30 deg angle
see:
http://www.apracing.com/info/info.as...Brake+Noise_45
Give this a try.
All will and can squeal.
When you use shims (either the original or you can get the "snap in" type Porsche started using on 993s) they must be "bonded" to your pad (this changes harmonics of the pad by linking it with the caliper).
The 951 shop manual says to use some kind of double sided tape for the original 951 shims.
My preference (lower cost and weight) is the 993 type shim.
See: http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/1...%20Damper.aspx
When these are new, they come with an adhesive and a peal off cover. I reuse these shims with the orange disc brake quiet (C.R.C. brand ) stuff (basically high temp glue).
Also, you should use a file to camfer the leading and trailing edges (start with leading), about 1/2 in, 30 deg angle
see:
http://www.apracing.com/info/info.as...Brake+Noise_45
Give this a try.
04-23-2011, 09:44 AM
#55
Rennlist Member
That looks to be your problem right there. The metal plates on the back of the new pads aren't proper shims.
Like jeffbarn pointed out, you need to fit the adhesive puck style shims that your 89 car is missing, so as to eliminate the noise.
Like jeffbarn pointed out, you need to fit the adhesive puck style shims that your 89 car is missing, so as to eliminate the noise.
04-23-2011, 11:11 AM
#56
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I still have the original shims that is suppose to be used with my car.
They are 1 piece @ $30 a piece x 4.
When these are new, they come with an adhesive and a peal off cover. I reuse these shims with the orange disc brake quiet (C.R.C. brand ) stuff (basically high temp glue).
I might try using the old shims with this material
thanks
They are 1 piece @ $30 a piece x 4.
When these are new, they come with an adhesive and a peal off cover. I reuse these shims with the orange disc brake quiet (C.R.C. brand ) stuff (basically high temp glue).
I might try using the old shims with this material
thanks
04-23-2011, 11:40 AM
#57
Racer
I use the metal masters. I do experience some brake fade, but they are mostly quiet.
The reason the pads squeal is the vibration that takes place under light pressure. I don't think the drilled or slotted rotors will make a difference in low speed/light pressure applications. To stop the squealing, chamfer the leading and trailing edges of the pads and use double sided tape on the back or the correct brake grease. Worked for me on the 951 and my DD Volvo (that used to squeal like hell!).
The reason the pads squeal is the vibration that takes place under light pressure. I don't think the drilled or slotted rotors will make a difference in low speed/light pressure applications. To stop the squealing, chamfer the leading and trailing edges of the pads and use double sided tape on the back or the correct brake grease. Worked for me on the 951 and my DD Volvo (that used to squeal like hell!).
08-20-2011, 10:04 PM
#58
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Hansman:
Any update on the squealing pads? Mine are still horrible, but have had no time to remove or replace them. I have been gone for the last three months on various business trips overseas, so less than 500 miles on the pads. I am going with Doc's suggestion next time as I have seen the same reccomendation on another thread. Hopefully, the OEM Textar will make the difference.
Any update on the squealing pads? Mine are still horrible, but have had no time to remove or replace them. I have been gone for the last three months on various business trips overseas, so less than 500 miles on the pads. I am going with Doc's suggestion next time as I have seen the same reccomendation on another thread. Hopefully, the OEM Textar will make the difference.
