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Pauly's go quicker project. (Data Logs!)

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Old 08-02-2011, 03:45 AM
  #46  
Paulyy
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Okay so today i got some work done. I've grinded down the Turbo mount to fit the turbo as all Garrett GTxxxxR series require.

1 Thing i've noted is the TiAL .83 housing is fatter at the bottom then thet standard Garrett housing 95ONE used.

Here's the 2 turbos showing the difference. picture is from 95ONEs thread on his gt30 install.


You see the clamps holding the turbine housing, the housing looks like it folds back



Here it looks like the housing is squashed around the clamps



Came out blury but you get the idea.










Plans for tomorrow is to go find a longer turbo mount bolt and figer out how to adapt the water fitting and if to run the turbo water temp sensor or not
Old 08-02-2011, 04:07 AM
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Crackership
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Beautiful! I'm jealous. I wish I had a go-quicker project... all I have is a stop-leaking-and-catching-fire project

But seriously, very nice!
Old 08-02-2011, 04:16 AM
  #48  
Paulyy
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Originally Posted by Crackership
Beautiful! I'm jealous. I wish I had a go-quicker project... all I have is a stop-leaking-and-catching-fire project

But seriously, very nice!
haha Thanks,

i've got my self an oil pan leak which is not so good. missing bolts so need to figer out how to tackle that, either quick fix by adding the missing few bolts and tighting it up or pull the engine and also replace the clutch which needs to be replaced soon anyway. Problem: no room im leaning towards a quick fix then drive it to my dads friends place who has a hoist, engine hoist & stand and alot of room in his garage and pull the engine there with the help of him and my dad to do it quicker.
Old 08-02-2011, 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Paulyy
haha Thanks,

i've got my self an oil pan leak which is not so good. missing bolts so need to figer out how to tackle that, either quick fix by adding the missing few bolts and tighting it up or pull the engine and also replace the clutch which needs to be replaced soon anyway. Problem: no room im leaning towards a quick fix then drive it to my dads friends place who has a hoist, engine hoist & stand and alot of room in his garage and pull the engine there with the help of him and my dad to do it quicker.
Man, I'd do whatever it took to get to that hoist... tow it if you have to. It's a PITA with a good but of room... not the job to do in a tight space!
Old 08-02-2011, 06:53 AM
  #50  
Paulyy
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Originally Posted by Crackership
Man, I'd do whatever it took to get to that hoist... tow it if you have to. It's a PITA with a good but of room... not the job to do in a tight space!
yeah id guess it's 3 times better/easer with a hoist. with the space that im using. an engine pull will he a hell of a task lol!
Old 08-02-2011, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Paulyy
Came out blury but you get the idea.
Looks like you have been a bit over enthusiastic machining the mount as the groove for the o-seal isn't "closed"? As shown here you are likely to get oil leaks.

I would sure use the temp sensor for the turbo cooling pump.

Thanks for sharing, very interested in seeing how you will mod the exhaust.
Old 08-02-2011, 08:02 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Thom
Looks like you have been a bit over enthusiastic machining the mount as the groove for the o-seal isn't "closed"? As shown here you are likely to get oil leaks.

I would sure use the temp sensor for the turbo cooling pump.

Thanks for sharing, very interested in seeing how you will mod the exhaust.
ah you noticed! yes i had to, it was in the way of the compressor housing. i had it closed but still in the way.

to fix the issue, i've got a decent sized O ring and going to use an aluminum shim to have a good seal between the mount and the t3/t4 to GT BB adapter. will post pictures when i do this.
Old 08-02-2011, 11:31 AM
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Scott H
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Why not just have the mount machined down a little so it's flat, that way the oval seal will have something better to seat against and you might solve your bolt issues.
Old 08-02-2011, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott H
Why not just have the mount machined down a little so it's flat, that way the oval seal will have something better to seat against and you might solve your bolt issues.
Seems like alot more work doing that but then it'll lower the turbo and the alternator will get in the way even more then it is now with the 4" inlet. but thanks anyway.
Old 08-02-2011, 12:00 PM
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I would be really surprised if you didn't have to shroud the alternator with a 4" inlet, as even with a 3" inlet it gets quite in the way.

Lowering the turbo will help gain clearance with the throttle body too and with the straight coolant hose between the coolant tank and the coolant tube that holds the temp switch for the turbo cooling pump.

I use a 4" to 3" reducer between the turbo inlet and the tube to the cone filter as it was not possible to use a straight 4" coupler because of that straight coolant hose.
You may still use a 4" hose but by then it may touch the IC pipe to the throttle body and you won't have enough room to splice in between that coolant hose.
Old 08-02-2011, 12:08 PM
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Another alternative (the way I would personally do it).

http://www.broadfootracing.com/performance_parts.htm 1/3 down the page "Turbocharger Mount"

I'm not affiliated with BFR, I just like their products and the fact that they're a somewhat local business to me. I know CEP and Tial do/used to make these, I don't know how much they charge, but for $285 I would most definitely get the custom mount and do it the right way. The last thing you want to do is break everything back apart just because the turbo mount is seeping oil.
Old 08-02-2011, 12:11 PM
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This mount lacks the vacuum line to the AOS.
Old 08-02-2011, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Thom
I would be really surprised if you didn't have to shroud the alternator with a 4" inlet, as even with a 3" inlet it gets quite in the way.

Lowering the turbo will help gain clearance with the throttle body too and with the coolant hose between the coolant tank.
I though about the throttle body after i replied before.

Originally Posted by Thom
I use a 4" -> 3" reducer between the turbo inlet and the tube to the cone filter as it was not possible to use a straight 4" coupler with the straight hose going to the coolant tank.
if you look at one of the first pictures that's what i've done. 4" --> 3" --> 4" since the PO had a 4" cone filter with a 4" bend to a 4" --> 3" reducer already on it.

Originally Posted by Thom
You may still use a 4" hose but by then it may touch the IC pipe to the throttle body and you won't have enough room for the cooling hose.
i've already tried this with a off cut 4 inch pipe, just no room. and a hose will just bend and not look that great. IMO i don't really see any restriction with the 4-3-4" set up i've done when the standard housing is a 3" anyway
Old 08-02-2011, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott H
Another alternative (the way I would personally do it).

http://www.broadfootracing.com/performance_parts.htm 1/3 down the page "Turbocharger Mount"

I'm not affiliated with BFR, I just like their products and the fact that they're a somewhat local business to me. I know CEP and Tial do/used to make these, I don't know how much they charge, but for $285 I would most definitely get the custom mount and do it the right way. The last thing you want to do is break everything back apart just because the turbo mount is seeping oil.
It looks the same as the TiAL mount ? 285 seems quite cheap also
Old 08-02-2011, 12:23 PM
  #60  
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It IS a Tial mount, the hot side difference is teh difference in Cast steel vs stainless...

Sounds like Nissan Quest Alternator time.. it is much smaller where it counts for this type of install... the rear sits fartehr away from teh turbo, and the top sits lower too!

Here is one with a Turbonetics turbo..


George D is running this alternator on his motor, with IIRC a 4 inch pipe.. you can see how it clears the new alternator...
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