By the way, just in case not obvious -- be sure to cover up that port and the whole deck (and any open hoses, ports, etc. that shavings can get into) if you need to drill. You can wrap the old gasket in saran wrap, poke hole for the studs, and clip away the area where to you working, to make a nice cover for the motor.

Another note of caution, that coolant tab can break off the block. And welding that on is no easy task. If it's not coming out, don't fight it. Give in and drill/helicoil. Good luck.

I really like the Trigger Start torch.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_299446-717-2...site=shopLocal

Mapp gas burns very hot and can melt aluminum. I would go with propane. If the bolt doesn't move on the first heat cycle, let it cool, spray with PB and do it again.

If you have to resort to drilling out if the heat and visegrips don't work, I'd suggest reverse (left handed) drill bits from snap-on. They drill in the direction of bolt removal and you could end up pulling the bolt out while drilling. At least in my past use and experience. I haven't done this job yet.

This is what I did.I'm going to do a few more cycles like this. I even used the same torch kit. So far, NADA!

Unfortunately I don't have the luxury of time. I'm going to have to find what I need at Autozone.

I struggled for months with this - even brought the block to machine shops and nobody could remove it or wanted to try. One guy said we could use a "EDM" process but it would have been super expensive.

So after talking with some people, I decided to not worry about it and just put the car together. 64K+ miles and no issues. FWIW, later cars (2.7/3L ?) did not use a bolt there.

Did you use a gasket sealant in that spot?

Thanks,

E

Nope, no sealant on the gasket or the mating surfaces. My stud was also broken off below the surface of the block, so I'd imagine if it were prone to leakage I would have had a problem..

That's an excellent candidate for the welding technique - it'll be out in about 60 seconds:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6T0qegbNlnY

Van, If I had a welder and the facilities, I'd use that. BTW, I made my crank seal installation tool out of a piece of PVC pipe. tomorrow I'm picking up a big ass washer (that's a tech term! :) )so that I can do the reinstall. The vid was great on that. Thanks!

What about the broken bolt? Still f'n with it?

Heat , pb blaster,cool down, twist, rinse repeat...FIVE FU$*ING TIMES! nuthin!
Gonna drill tomorrow. Got a reverse bit set and an M8 x 1.25 helicoil kit.. Based on what MM said, I may freaking leave it, but that's a very last resort. The block isn't coming outta the damned car!

Try twisting it out while its hot. Once it cools down it binds back up. I had the same thing happen, heated it up and was able to get it out.

Yep! Did that! NADA. The metal of the bolt just crushes. It doesn't turn at all.