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16v turbo dyno testing

Old 11-11-2010, 09:25 PM
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MooreBoost
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Originally Posted by Chris White
If I can get the torque flat to 7k then the hp will be about 675 (at 15 psi!).
NICE!!
Old 11-11-2010, 10:33 PM
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Will you be running a stock transaxle?
Old 11-11-2010, 11:17 PM
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Black51
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Oh my, even at 3200 it's got 300ft lbs of torque! It'd be a nasty little ride up from there on in!
Old 11-12-2010, 12:25 AM
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What would the hp work out to at the wheels do you figure?

Very nice chart

Jason

Originally Posted by Chris White
Here is the dyno graph – its in excel since the dyno likes to dump the data into excel tables.
There was a slight misfire at 6k (you can see the hick up in the line) and I believe that I can flatten out the torque curve on the top end with the cam timing. If I can get the torque flat to 7k then the hp will be about 675 (at 15 psi!).
Then I can try 18…..maybe a tad more just for fun!

Anyway - the torque curve ‘shape’ is what I was looking for - +/- 5% from 4k to 6.5k. That’s what gets you out of the corners fast!!!
Old 11-12-2010, 07:14 AM
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Old 11-12-2010, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by TX951
Will you be running a stock transaxle?
Yes, for a little while! I have both a 968 and the ‘snail shell’ 924 turbo transaxles sitting around for possible swaps.
Originally Posted by gruhsy
What would the hp work out to at the wheels do you figure?
Based on that dyno data it would be a tad over 500rwhp.

BTW – the torque curve looks quite a bit like Dukes torque curve….fun stuff!
BTW part 2 – I have also put together another engine like this except not dry sumped, Gt30 turbo and SFR stage 1 headers for my 968 cab. It might be a little overkill for a street cab…but it will spool up fast and make major midrange torque!
Old 11-12-2010, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 67King
Old 11-12-2010, 02:34 PM
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Chris what would be the max boost you would think this engine would hold?
Old 11-12-2010, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris White
I believe that I can flatten out the torque curve on the top end with the cam timing. If I can get the torque flat to 7k then the hp will be about 675 (at 15 psi!).
Wow, that is one very impressive TQ curve. I'd like to see you spin this thing to 8K!



Originally Posted by minho78
Chris what would be the max boost you would think this engine would hold?
I say he should crank it up, like Special Tool did. Say, 26 PSI?

Old 11-12-2010, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RolexNJ

I say he should crank it up, like Special Tool did. Say, 26 PSI?

UHmm I would like the numbers at 25PSI.
Old 11-12-2010, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris White
Here is the dyno graph – its in excel since the dyno likes to dump the data into excel tables.
There was a slight misfire at 6k (you can see the hick up in the line) and I believe that I can flatten out the torque curve on the top end with the cam timing. If I can get the torque flat to 7k then the hp will be about 675 (at 15 psi!).
Then I can try 18…..maybe a tad more just for fun!

Anyway - the torque curve ‘shape’ is what I was looking for - +/- 5% from 4k to 6.5k. That’s what gets you out of the corners fast!!!
The TQ is falling pretty fast there Chris , i would check the BP on the turbo ....
Old 11-13-2010, 02:53 AM
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Originally Posted by A.Wayne
The TQ is falling pretty fast there Chris , i would check the BP on the turbo ....
That run had an odd missfire right at 6k rpm, that’s where the torque dropped a bit.
I am adding crossover pressure sensor instrumentation for the next testing session, we may be pushing this turbo a little hard….
Old 11-13-2010, 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by minho78
Chris what would be the max boost you would think this engine would hold?
I am not into ‘glory runs’

This is an engine built for track use, I would rather send the time getting it set up just right for how I plan to use it….but if time permits and all else is running well I might just push it a little next time!

The real answer is that it’s a quantity vs quality issue. The engine can stand a lot of boost if the ‘quality‘of the boost is good. Pushing a turbo well past its efficiency range will get your more pressure but also a lot more heat in the intake air and a lot more back pressure – neither one is good for an engine.
Old 11-13-2010, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris White
I am not into ‘glory runs’

This is an engine built for track use, I would rather send the time getting it set up just right for how I plan to use it….but if time permits and all else is running well I might just push it a little next time!

The real answer is that it’s a quantity vs quality issue. The engine can stand a lot of boost if the ‘quality‘of the boost is good. Pushing a turbo well past its efficiency range will get your more pressure but also a lot more heat in the intake air and a lot more back pressure – neither one is good for an engine.
Speaking of which, I noticed the intercooler setup you were running was in a water bath. You have any idea how the inlet temperatures will differ in the car compared to the dyno setup? And how are you adjusting time (perhaps enrichment as well) while tuning to account for it? I'm genually curious, not being critical. The only forced induction engines I've been around on engine dynoes were the 2003/2004 CObras, which had water cooled intercoolers integrated into the intake manifold, so it was a bit different.
Old 11-13-2010, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 67King
Speaking of which, I noticed the intercooler setup you were running was in a water bath. You have any idea how the inlet temperatures will differ in the car compared to the dyno setup? And how are you adjusting time (perhaps enrichment as well) while tuning to account for it? I'm genually curious, not being critical. The only forced induction engines I've been around on engine dynoes were the 2003/2004 CObras, which had water cooled intercoolers integrated into the intake manifold, so it was a bit different.
I decided to take the intake temps ‘out of the loop’ for engine dyno testing for several reasons – its hard to get a lot of air flow in the dyno cell and it would not be duplicating ‘real world’ air flow anyway. I did not use cold water in the tank, room temperature so that I would not be making the intake air colder that I would out on the track. I made provisions for a continual replacement of the water to keep the temp steady but I never needed it, the intake temps were pretty steady. With the dyno pulls only lasting 10 seconds or so it is nothing like the conditions at the track.

The tuning does have extra fuel as the intake temps go up.

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