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Any advice for removing stripped flywheel bolts?

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Old 08-29-2010, 03:11 PM
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Dom1
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Default Any advice for removing stripped flywheel bolts?

I got 6 of the 9 out and they were super tight because someone used red loctite. Three stripped. I tried vice grips and heating and banging with no luck. I test drilled a spare bolt and they seem too hard to drill unless there is a special bit I need. Any advice?
Thanks
Dom
Old 08-29-2010, 03:19 PM
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Van
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Have a welder? Weld a nut on.

Or try these Irwin bolt extractors: http://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/sc...olt-extractors
Old 08-29-2010, 03:21 PM
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Ski
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Just get a sharp bit, they should drill pretty easy - I've drilled several out.
Old 08-29-2010, 03:32 PM
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theedge
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Either the extractors that Van list (which Sears sells as well) or drill. I have done both.
Old 08-29-2010, 04:27 PM
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Tom M'Guinn

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Drilling is quick, free, and virtually foolproof for those bolt. Welding a nut is probably a close second, but I always worry about zapping the DME if you don't unplug it. Whatever you do, don't use an EZ-out or any of those cork-screw type extractors. They will snap off and compound your problem exponentially.
Old 08-29-2010, 06:09 PM
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George D
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Drill. Normak occurance.
Old 08-29-2010, 08:04 PM
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Bill
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Remove all the holds you can. Then drill off just the heads of the stripped bolts. Remove the flywheel and you should be able to remove the threads by hand or at most with vise grips.
Old 08-30-2010, 12:04 PM
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aben8057
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Drill them out, make sure you keep the tip of the bit lubricated with oil and go at a slow speed.
Old 08-30-2010, 12:27 PM
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968turbos2
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Just use a good dead blow hammer and a chisel. Hit it like you are trying to 'chisel clock-wise to turn it' Easier if the engine has not been removed.
Old 08-30-2010, 01:19 PM
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DDP
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The extractors that Van linked you to work great. Like Brian said, you can get them at Sears. They'll save you time from drilling. Either way, you have options.
Old 08-30-2010, 01:38 PM
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Van
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Originally Posted by 968turbos2
Just use a good dead blow hammer and a chisel. Hit it like you are trying to 'chisel clock-wise to turn it' Easier if the engine has not been removed.
Good idea! You could also grind the head off with an angle grinder... Although that'll send metal dust everywhere.
Old 08-30-2010, 07:58 PM
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Dom1
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My plan is to heat the head then try an extractor. If that does not work its time to drill. Thanks for the help.
Dom
Old 08-31-2010, 09:32 AM
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Chris White
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Be really careful with the extractor – you break it off (common occurrence) and you will be very unhappy.

If you really want the best way use heat and then a reverse twist drill bit.
Old 08-31-2010, 10:26 AM
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67King
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Originally Posted by Dom1
My plan is to heat the head then try an extractor. If that does not work its time to drill. Thanks for the help.
Dom
Originally Posted by Chris White
Be really careful with the extractor – you break it off (common occurrence) and you will be very unhappy.

If you really want the best way use heat and then a reverse twist drill bit.
I think/assume/HOPE that "extractor" means the external type mentioned above. I bought a set from Sears when they were relatively new about 6-7 years ago to remove a broken head bolt (mercifully it broke above the block surface). Best $50 I have ever spent. I used them on internal drive CV joint bolts (very prone to stripping on my prior car). Countless other things.

Dom, if you are talking about the internal ones (aka "Easy Out"), then don't do it. Chris is right, they WILL break. Good news is if you have to drill the head off of the bolt, when you remove the flexplate, the remainder of the bolt is usually only finger tight.
Old 08-31-2010, 10:33 AM
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Dom1
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I bought a $22 cobalt bit and it went in like butter. I tried extractors and they did not work.
Thanks

Last edited by Dom1; 08-31-2010 at 01:44 PM.


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