The LS1 swap has begun
08-03-2011, 10:11 AM
#766
Nordschleife Master
Spec makes a very nice light weight flywheel, clutch and pressure plate for the swap. I'm using the spec stage 3 6-puck disc for my build. Spec also carries the GM slave that you will need.
08-03-2011, 10:21 AM
#767
Three Wheelin'
This is what happened to my drive shaft after a couple years of daily abuse and a 452whp LS2:
Make sure your drive shaft is engaged deep enough in the pilot bearing to get full clutch hub engagement.
Do NOT rely on the stock location of the shaft in the TT. Also, talk to David at Spec. He is the owner and drives a 951LSx and has gone to great lengths to design a clutch specifically for our application. He has worked in tandem with Tom Egan, who knows more about the swap than ANYBODY.
Make sure your drive shaft is engaged deep enough in the pilot bearing to get full clutch hub engagement.
Do NOT rely on the stock location of the shaft in the TT. Also, talk to David at Spec. He is the owner and drives a 951LSx and has gone to great lengths to design a clutch specifically for our application. He has worked in tandem with Tom Egan, who knows more about the swap than ANYBODY.
08-03-2011, 10:34 AM
#768
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'm using the Spec stage 2 clutch and lightened flywheel. Nice package and is holding the hp and torque with no issues so far.
PorscheDoc, I wasn't planning on going to the HPR Race/DE. I'll be at HPR the following weekend with NASA, didn't think I could get a hall pass from my wife for two weekends in a row. I run with NASA for free vs having to pay for the PCA weekend, so that's an easy choice...
PorscheDoc, I wasn't planning on going to the HPR Race/DE. I'll be at HPR the following weekend with NASA, didn't think I could get a hall pass from my wife for two weekends in a row. I run with NASA for free vs having to pay for the PCA weekend, so that's an easy choice...
08-03-2011, 11:16 AM
#769
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Well my car is at Eclou's place right now, I discovered the oil pan is leaking. We're gonna drop the pan tonight in hopes to do a quick repair.
I believe the leak is coming from inbetween the two bolts that go into the rear engine cover, the pan never really looked straight there. We plan on using a punch and "straightening" it out a bit and then resealing w/ RTV. My question is should we use RTV + current oil pan gasket, replace entire oil pan gasket w/ RTV, or cut out the section that is leaking, use RTV for it, and then the remaining OEM gasket for the rest.
I believe the leak is coming from inbetween the two bolts that go into the rear engine cover, the pan never really looked straight there. We plan on using a punch and "straightening" it out a bit and then resealing w/ RTV. My question is should we use RTV + current oil pan gasket, replace entire oil pan gasket w/ RTV, or cut out the section that is leaking, use RTV for it, and then the remaining OEM gasket for the rest.
08-03-2011, 11:45 AM
#770
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PorscheDoc, I wasn't planning on going to the HPR Race/DE. I'll be at HPR the following weekend with NASA, didn't think I could get a hall pass from my wife for two weekends in a row. I run with NASA for free vs having to pay for the PCA weekend, so that's an easy choice...
08-03-2011, 12:56 PM
#771
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Well my car is at Eclou's place right now, I discovered the oil pan is leaking. We're gonna drop the pan tonight in hopes to do a quick repair.
I believe the leak is coming from inbetween the two bolts that go into the rear engine cover, the pan never really looked straight there. We plan on using a punch and "straightening" it out a bit and then resealing w/ RTV. My question is should we use RTV + current oil pan gasket, replace entire oil pan gasket w/ RTV, or cut out the section that is leaking, use RTV for it, and then the remaining OEM gasket for the rest.
I believe the leak is coming from inbetween the two bolts that go into the rear engine cover, the pan never really looked straight there. We plan on using a punch and "straightening" it out a bit and then resealing w/ RTV. My question is should we use RTV + current oil pan gasket, replace entire oil pan gasket w/ RTV, or cut out the section that is leaking, use RTV for it, and then the remaining OEM gasket for the rest.
08-03-2011, 01:24 PM
#772
Rennlist Junkie Forever
This is what happened to my drive shaft after a couple years of daily abuse and a 452whp LS2:
Make sure your drive shaft is engaged deep enough in the pilot bearing to get full clutch hub engagement.
Do NOT rely on the stock location of the shaft in the TT. Also, talk to David at Spec. He is the owner and drives a 951LSx and has gone to great lengths to design a clutch specifically for our application. He has worked in tandem with Tom Egan, who knows more about the swap than ANYBODY.
Make sure your drive shaft is engaged deep enough in the pilot bearing to get full clutch hub engagement.
Do NOT rely on the stock location of the shaft in the TT. Also, talk to David at Spec. He is the owner and drives a 951LSx and has gone to great lengths to design a clutch specifically for our application. He has worked in tandem with Tom Egan, who knows more about the swap than ANYBODY.
The stripped part of the shaft still shows a considerable amount of spline left. Given that, it looks like the diameter of the disk was a little too large for the drive shaft, which is why if it's stripped, it didn't take the splines on the shaft all the way down.
BTW, when I installed my new LS6 (after I blew up the LS1), upon inspection, the clutch disk wear pattern on the drive shaft showed nothing odd. However, since I could not get my old Renegade pilot bearing out without destroying it, I ordered a new one from Renegade. They changed their design FYI. The new pilot bearing is thicker and pushes the actual bearing out further from the flywheel (towards the rear of the car). Probably to get the drive shaft to engage further into the pilot bearing without messing with drive shaft adjustment within the torque tube.
This wouldn't address the shaft engagement into the disk issue however.
Just thinking out loud... I wonder if different disks, have different hubs with respect to hub thickness or disks with hubs that are offset to one side (towards the pressure plate)?
I didn't have a problem with my old setup, but I was just pointing out that they made a change
08-03-2011, 01:41 PM
#773
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Well my car is at Eclou's place right now, I discovered the oil pan is leaking. We're gonna drop the pan tonight in hopes to do a quick repair.
I believe the leak is coming from inbetween the two bolts that go into the rear engine cover, the pan never really looked straight there. We plan on using a punch and "straightening" it out a bit and then resealing w/ RTV. My question is should we use RTV + current oil pan gasket, replace entire oil pan gasket w/ RTV, or cut out the section that is leaking, use RTV for it, and then the remaining OEM gasket for the rest.
I believe the leak is coming from inbetween the two bolts that go into the rear engine cover, the pan never really looked straight there. We plan on using a punch and "straightening" it out a bit and then resealing w/ RTV. My question is should we use RTV + current oil pan gasket, replace entire oil pan gasket w/ RTV, or cut out the section that is leaking, use RTV for it, and then the remaining OEM gasket for the rest.
I used some overpriced black sealer from Porsche on the corners of the block where there are seams (which is how the factory does it). That's where I put it and I would personally use something better than RTV due to the fact that it's a big job to get the pan off to have another crack at it if it leaks again.
TonyG
08-03-2011, 01:43 PM
#774
Burning Brakes
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It was the same Renegade disc you're using Tony. Great point about the remote bleeder, and make sure you check for leaks and bleed the slave prior to reassembly.
Even with a beefier pilot, I'd recommend checking drive shaft engagement to the clutch disc hub, before putting everything back together. You may find you need to tap the DS forward. Some people get lucky on this and never have checked. Here's the Spec hub (if I recall correctly, it was 24mm deep with a nice offset):
Even with a beefier pilot, I'd recommend checking drive shaft engagement to the clutch disc hub, before putting everything back together. You may find you need to tap the DS forward. Some people get lucky on this and never have checked. Here's the Spec hub (if I recall correctly, it was 24mm deep with a nice offset):
08-03-2011, 02:00 PM
#775
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The pan has to be flat or it will leak.
I used some overpriced black sealer from Porsche on the corners of the block where there are seams (which is how the factory does it). That's where I put it and I would personally use something better than RTV due to the fact that it's a big job to get the pan off to have another crack at it if it leaks again.
TonyG
I used some overpriced black sealer from Porsche on the corners of the block where there are seams (which is how the factory does it). That's where I put it and I would personally use something better than RTV due to the fact that it's a big job to get the pan off to have another crack at it if it leaks again.
TonyG
It looks like Eclou has black rtv at his place and I just picked up some grey RTV. hopefully if we combine them it will create a super sealer...
08-03-2011, 02:24 PM
#776
Nordschleife Master
I used Permatex "The Right Stuff" gasket make on mine, as suggested by a few knowledgable LSx racers.
