Looks good!
My only comment would be to sell your Turbo coolant reservoir and pick up an N/A reservoir. The extra nipple isn't needed, and the turbo reservoir is worth a bit more.

Might as well get a GT Racing fiberglass hood. No point in cutting holes in the stock hood. Plus the hood swap to fiberglass is one of the biggest things you can do to save weight (plus it's easy to do).

TonyG

Gotta rock the stock hood for a coupla reasons..

I'm already at the weight limit for the class I run, if I drop more weight I either need to go up a class or dial out power.

Also, funds are allocated elsewhere, I don't have the cash ready for a new hood, paint it etc...

That's a good attitude Tony!

No.... you do the hood because the weight is up high on the car.

Also... while you're at it, dump the stock battery and get a odyssey PC 545 battery with the included battery bracket and the automotive terminal kit. This weight is also up high on the car.

http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc545series.htm

Those two alone will probably drop close to 50lbs off the front of the car.

Then you add weight down low to the passenger side floor to keep the weight low and put the weight where it will help corner balance the car.

Plus you'll have room to install a kill switch if you don't already have one.

Nothing illegal about moving weight around :-)

TonyG

how much do you think the stock battery weighs? and did you have a FG hood when devon and i saw the car? i cant recall.

The Odyssee battery is 11.2 lbs
The stock battery is about 54lbs (depending on the brand).


The fiberglass hood is like 7-8 lbs. I don't know what the stock hood weights but it's a hell of a lot more than 7-8lbs.


TonyG

I'm getting all hot and bothered by this thread. Tony I aim to walk in your shadow. My car will follow Doc's, but I have also added a 224/230 cam and some mildly ported heads which should help achieve ~400 rwhp

You're gonna love it.

My LS1 has the RH headers, dual 2.5" exhaust, the MTI Stealth 2 cam (ground by comp cams...which is a cam on the mild side) & valve spring/retainer package, a larger throttle body with straight shot to air cleaner, and a reprogrammed ECU. 389RWHP on 91 octane. Everything else is bone stock.

And it does it all day long without breaking a sweat.

Runs dead nuts even down the straights with a LS7 Z06 & the Nissan GTR (I get 'em in the corners though.... ha)


TonyG

PS> I tell everybody this... if you can afford it, you're much better off buying a car that has the conversion done. Apples to apples it will be far less expensive in the long run. Plus you get to play now vs having to deal with the build.

It's always cheaper to buy a completed project, as long as it was done properly. Having to figure out what's wrong on a converted car isn't a whole lot of fun.

As much as I'd like to drop all the weight, this car isn't a gutted track car, ie, I don't have a mechanism to add ballast elsewhere in the car, I have a passenger seat in it and do drive it around on the street sometimes.

I also don't want to spend even more $$ on a hood, battery, etc. If I need to replace the battery down the road, then I'll go with the lighter one...

Wow that's some progress Doc! is that up at Poudre or is it here in Littleton? I'd like to take a look sometime.

Car is actually in Texas. The shop there has done several of these conversions...

bummer, so I won't get to see the progress.. when do you get it back?

Hopefully in a couple of weeks. Depends on the headers, they're sending them to the shop so the smog pump fittings can be attached, then they go back to the header company for final welding and coating.

Everything else is ordered and taken care of...

Tony G, does the turn 1 pump give you enough pressure to provide steering assist at low speeds? Havent gone that route since Im unsure it works..........


Thanks

Jpr