1750Kamm

hi, i am a new member and I have a stock 86" (i will pot pics). But at the moment i am incountering issues and i have researched them. Heres my problem:

On originl boost gauage i am only getting only 1.2 bar so i am in KLR Limp mode:

I have put all new siclicon vacumm hoses. Got good pressure
I have put all new rubber hoses.
I have pinched my waste gate hose and the boost increases good and fast. And from my reading that mean waste gate is good.
I have done LED code test, which worked (i went for a long drive). And i have no codes appear, but it does blink when i take the TPS off.
I have put on a new CV.

So where do i go from here? PLEASE help!!! i am new to this

Rip It

Most likely a vacuum leak. Get a mitey-vac their cheap and a needed tool for 951's. Your diverter valve may have a faulty diaphram. Check to see if it holds a vacuum. The mitey-vac also comes with a brake bleeder attachment. I bought one from harbor freight ~ $35.00.

1750Kamm

Hey Rip it thanks for your help

i put on a new divert valve on because the other one was stuffed and i am still having the same problem. Any other ideas?

blown 944

check the connectors at the Intercooler (underside)or the connector out of the turbo.

1750Kamm

I have checked the silicone connectors they seem good. And when i clamped the line from the CV to the wastegate, it produces boost. Could it be a sensor but the KLR doesnt pick up any codes (and KLR is working)? or could it be the wastegate stuck on releasing all pressure to 1.2 bar (absolute)?

Van

Did the car ever work right when you had it? If so, back-track through your changes...

Sounds like bad plumbing or wiring to your cycling valve. Does it build boost first, then drop down to 1.2 bar? Or does it just never get over 1.2 bar?

Oddjob

Are you sure the KLR is working correctly?

1750Kamm

it NEVER goes over 1.2bar(absolute). It was going right but had no CV and had a boost controller. Trying to turn ti back to stock. What does this mean?
I checked my plumming and the cyclic valve click 3 times

Van

So, it had no cycling valve and a manual boost controller (and probably chips??). Now you've taken out the manual boost controller, and put in a cycling valve? Assuming you've put the stock chip back in, it sounds like the cycling valve port that goes to the J boot (the low pressure port) is blocked.

1750Kamm

why would the j-boot be blocked?
And how can i tell the computer has been chiped?

joster86turbo

heres some instructions for checking your chips from Lindsey Racings website... http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/CHIPCHANGE.html

since you now own a 951, its time to suscribe to your new bible, it can be found at www.clarks-garage.com
...that will help with explinations, common problems, and the majority of the procedures you can or will have to do on these cars.

Also, for anything you can't find there, check out this: http://www.cannell.co.uk/944_worksho...Vol6-turbo.pdf
...it's the pdf for the 951 shop service manual. it's pretty big so it may take a while to download, but it'll for sure come in handy.

best of luck, and welcome!

and get those pictures up!

Jonathan

1750Kamm

THANKS HEAPs....they are really good resources


And thanks VAN I have solved that issue for now... you were right....the j boot was blocked. Why was this so you think, it looked like it was newish but stock...had to drill out the blockage..

Thanks Agian for everyones help...

I will post some pictures of my car

Van

I think the j-boot port was blocked because with a manual boost controller, you only use positive pressure (from the hard pipe before the intercooler) to open the wastegate.

However, with the cycling valve, it has to vent that positive pressure back to the j-boot to avoid triggering the wastegate until the KLR is ready. With that hose blocked, the positive pressure in the intake was immediately going to the wastegate and opening it up. Open wastegate = low boost.

1750Kamm

Just a curious question.... on the start boost indicator i am getting around 1.6 bar absolute......is that standard boost?

Van

You mean on the gauge on the dash? Factory spec is something like 1.75 +/-0.1 or something...