Rod Bearing Sizes
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My oil pan gasket is leaking, so I planned on replacing the rod bearings (and installing CEP motor mounts
) while I'm in there. My question is what is the likelihood of having STD sized rod bearings in a 160k mile engine? I don't have any history on the motor, but after seeing my headgasket I doubt the rod bearings were ever changed.
Reason I ask is I'm going to order a long list of parts (most likely) before I pull things apart and don't want to order the wrong ones.
I guess I should just be safe and pull things apart before I order parts...
Side note...has anyone ever made their own 3pc. crossmember?
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Reason I ask is I'm going to order a long list of parts (most likely) before I pull things apart and don't want to order the wrong ones.
I guess I should just be safe and pull things apart before I order parts...
Side note...has anyone ever made their own 3pc. crossmember?
#2
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
the big ends are induction hardened and have been known to survive a spun bearing undamaged . so i would give it a 90% chance .
i would prefer to make a strut brace that can hold the engine .. then just take the entire cross member out with the rack still on it .
the over strut engine brace is available in some places in the US ... A pretty good item to lend around rennlist i think
i would prefer to make a strut brace that can hold the engine .. then just take the entire cross member out with the rack still on it .
the over strut engine brace is available in some places in the US ... A pretty good item to lend around rennlist i think
#3
Hey Man
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would say the likelihood is good they are standard. I've torn down 2-951 engines (177K and 91K). Both had Std rod bearings. They will be marked on the outer surface so you'll know as soon as you pull them. Hopefully you don't have one oversize #2 only from a prior problem and need to buy two sets. At 160K you want to check those journals well and measure the crank end play while you are in there in case your thrust bearing is past spec. If too much end play you've opened up the Costco size can of worms.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Connersville IN
Posts: 1,807
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
all of the engines I've had were standard on both rod and main. I have a matco bar that goes across the strut towers for this purpose or when we do transaxles here at the shop. I believe someone on here sold some billet oilpan rails to help hold the oil pan gasket in place as that thing is so thick it wants to squeeze out and leak. there are lots of opinions on the best way to do it, glue right stuff nails etc. My first one leaked last 2 haven't leaked a drop.
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
New question... ARP rod bolts a good investment while I'm in there too? Or will replacing the nuts just be sufficient? Car will only be ~300whp for now, and maybe 400 down the road.
Things keep adding up!
Things keep adding up!
#7
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Connersville IN
Posts: 1,807
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
arp bolts are always a good option, but I've never used them only the raceware head studs. I think there may be room to change them in the motor been awhile since I've been in though. Maybe someone will chime in.
Trending Topics
#9
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would go and get the standard bearings. if for some reason they do not fit since you have the rod journal machined I am sure you can sell off those bearings. I would guess you have 95% chance of standard bearings.
#10
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Parral, Chihuahua, Mejico
Posts: 929
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you are tearing the engine down, you are using it. High strength rod and head bolts have the advantage over stock that they are not stretch bolts like stock ones and operate within their elastic limit.
Put in HS rod bolts, they're cheap and you have some tuning room.
Put in HS rod bolts, they're cheap and you have some tuning room.
#11
Drifting
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You can get by without an over-engine hoist. Just put a block of wood between the torque tube housing and the chassis brace (that runs under it) that is closest to the front of the car.
My mechanic suggested it. I had my motor suspended like this with no ill effects.
My mechanic suggested it. I had my motor suspended like this with no ill effects.
#12
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I’ll up it to 98% chance of standard bearings!
If you replace the rod bolts you will have to get the big ends of the rods resized – its mandatory. That requires a full disassembly of the rods/ pistons.
The stock bolts will work on a 300 hp engine with lots of strength to spare.
If you replace the rod bolts you will have to get the big ends of the rods resized – its mandatory. That requires a full disassembly of the rods/ pistons.
The stock bolts will work on a 300 hp engine with lots of strength to spare.
#13
Race Car
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
^^^ +1
You don't want to think about changing bolts unless doing a full teardown. Stock bolts should be fine for what you are doing anyway.
Also, I don't know if I am so keen on using the block of wood under the TT. That is a lot of weight hanging off the end of the TT. I have put a jackstand under the power steering bracket and been able to pull the whole crossmember. Should have made a 3 piece though, If I were racing this car exclusively I would definitely make one.
You don't want to think about changing bolts unless doing a full teardown. Stock bolts should be fine for what you are doing anyway.
Also, I don't know if I am so keen on using the block of wood under the TT. That is a lot of weight hanging off the end of the TT. I have put a jackstand under the power steering bracket and been able to pull the whole crossmember. Should have made a 3 piece though, If I were racing this car exclusively I would definitely make one.
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I’ll up it to 98% chance of standard bearings!
If you replace the rod bolts you will have to get the big ends of the rods resized – its mandatory. That requires a full disassembly of the rods/ pistons.
The stock bolts will work on a 300 hp engine with lots of strength to spare.
If you replace the rod bolts you will have to get the big ends of the rods resized – its mandatory. That requires a full disassembly of the rods/ pistons.
The stock bolts will work on a 300 hp engine with lots of strength to spare.