Rogue_Ant

Good suggestion. Though Open office will open the docx file no problem, so there really shouldn't be many people who can't read it.


-Rogue

blown 944

+1 on the pdf

there is a free writer at cutepdf.com and maybe even a trial at adobe

toddk911

Wow!

So we now have stand alone tuning for less than $200?????


Couple questions:

A. So on start up once the Ostrich is pluged in and running Tuner, our car will be running on bone stock fuel/timing maps correct?

B. Those of us with bigger MAF, injectors, etc. will have to tune from scratch and will our car even start or run on stock MAPS if running much bigger injectors, etc.?

C. Is it possible to save a "base tune" so in case things get way off the mark you can easily switch back to a basline without re tuning all over again?

D. Is there any way to load/save our after market chip tune into Tuner as a baseline?

toddk911

Also, is the knock counter available to buy or only DIY make?

What is an acceptable knock count or threshhold when adding timing? I.e. at what knock count do you need to stop adding or slightly pull some timing back out?

joeytoad83

yes, you need a eprom programer, like the moates burn2 and you can read the chip, save it to your pc and use it.

minho78

First thank you Rogue_Ant.

Then I have the following questions:

Like Todd911K asked is the Knock counter a DIY?

Would this be easy to tune if you are running MAF. I'm already tired of fixing this car so I don't want to blow anything else. Any Risk takers for the MAF setup?

Zuba951

From what it says on the Moates web page it looks like the Moates burn2 will only read the 2732a (our 24 pin chip) and not burn it. I have a BK Precision 848 (ebay find) and it works great. It reads and burns. Also get a good eprom eraser. I bought a new one, the BK Precision 850. The eraser is a UV light that formats or "sets" the chip. If you get a used eraser it will probably need a new bulb....


Brian
86 951

joeytoad83

heres a link to a diy knock counter for right about 20

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...-pictures.html

joeytoad83

another option would be go to your local shop and see if they have a burner/ reader and could do it for you. i plan on just leaveing the ostrich there so i have no need for a burner or eraser.

Rogue_Ant

The starting maps are pretty much factory stock data.

The first thing to adjust is for your larger injectors. This is done via the FQS table. The FQS table acts as a 'global fuel scaler'. Once you get the AFR in the ballpark, then use the maps to fine tune it.

Yep. With TunerPro you can save as many .bin files as your computer has memory for.

If you want to use your aftermarket chip with TunerPro, then you need a way to read the chip. Also, if the aftermarket chip uses non-standard maps and locations, TunerPro will not work correctly.

The knock counter is a DIY item, though is a simple process.
Check the thread here:

Click Me

I suggest tuning for less then 5counts per gear @ WOT. Ultimately, I tune for less then 2counts per gear @ WOT.

Check my response above.

This depends on your level of comfort and tuning experience.

I suggest not tuning while in closed-loop. You need to either disconnect the O2 or lower the closed-loop RPM limit.

The closed-loop RPM adjustment should be on the left in TunerPro (thrid one down under the constant/scalers section):



On gasoline, I would tune low load (up to 0psi) for ~14.5:1. From there start scaling downwards, by 12psi you should be ~11.8-12.0.

My car is a constant test bed. And I run E85 which is much more forgiving then gasoline.


-Rogue

toddk911

So for all that have an aftermarket chip and want to build on that, we need the reader and the ncan save that mapping as a baseline, assuming the aftermarke chip will work with Tuner Pro, correct?

I assume that even from stock mapping, it is not much work to get it tuned to run with aftermarket parts as you just input the desired a/f ratio and it should be close to that?

i.e. from your example of 0 psi/load being 14.5:1 and then richen just like normal all the way to 11.5:1 by 12+ psi?

it is not trial and error like a piggyback, just input desired a/f ratio (12:1) and you are on your way?

And if so, then stock timing could mostly be retained for part throttle/idle and only pull out timing in the upperload/boost cells?

is there an adjustment for injector duty cycle?

Sorry for all the quesitons.

Rogue_Ant

If you send me the chip, I'll pull the image, do a basic check for correct operation in TunerPro, then send you back the chip and digital image for your personal use.
PM me.

The DME understands the AFM signal, and using this we can input the desired a/f ratio in the maps and the result should be very close to the map value. However, when switching to a non-stock airflow device, the displayed map AFR will not be exact. Meaning that the fuel maps in TunerPro should just be a guideline, not taken literally.

With the AFM, the TunerPro fuel maps should be pretty accurate. But with a non-stock airflow device, there will be some trial & error. Always check your tune, regardless!

Yep. The stock timing advance is pretty mild, so it could be a good start for those running 15+ psi of boost.

Yes, the FQS is essentially a 'global fuel scaler'. By inputting a larger injector number in the FQS, you effectively lower the injector duty cycle.

No worries


-Rogue

toddk911

Wow!

http://www.tunerpro.net/features.htm

http://www.tunerpro.net/screenshots.htm

Rogue_Ant

I don't own MaxTune, so I can't say for certain. I assume so - but am not about to make any promises.

The overboost map:
All of the tables and constants in TunerPro tell you what it is, make sure the Item Comments window is displayed


-Rogue

joeytoad83

they dont offer the maxtronic any more, unless you buy one used. youll be getting an ostrich 2.0