Clutch replacement pictorial
02-26-2010, 03:06 AM
#31
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Try and get a puller if possible, it will make life alot easier. I am a firm believer in the right tool for the job, but i was in a bind and unfortunatley the slidehammer i had did not fit.
Anyhow, any bolt long enough to get the vice grips far enough away from the engine to give you room to give it a solid shot with a hammer will be enough. I used an old long turbo mounting bolt which i happened to have in my tool box. Use a flat washer on the bolt small enough to fit through the ID of the bearing race and a vice grips on the threaded end of the bolt. Hammer the vicegrips a few times and it will pull the bearing out.
Anyhow, any bolt long enough to get the vice grips far enough away from the engine to give you room to give it a solid shot with a hammer will be enough. I used an old long turbo mounting bolt which i happened to have in my tool box. Use a flat washer on the bolt small enough to fit through the ID of the bearing race and a vice grips on the threaded end of the bolt. Hammer the vicegrips a few times and it will pull the bearing out.
03-10-2010, 09:38 AM
#32
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Just wondering (since I'm about to remove the RMS -- replaced the pilot bearing today) what was so tricky about this? It _looks_ like it should be easy, given the "screwdriver cutout" in the housing to get access to dig into the seal with. But obviously not... what's the story?
03-10-2010, 08:33 PM
#33
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
That seal is really in there good.. a flat tip screwdriver is really not up to the task, nor was a pretty heavy duty right angle pick i used. A seal puller is a must for this part so you also avoid damaging the crank or sealing surface.
03-10-2010, 10:45 PM
#34
Three Wheelin'
Great work Jon!
Since you now have a lightened flywheel, you may want to change your timing belt a little more often.
Lightweight flywheels on 4-cyl cars put more stress on the timing drive due to the torque impulses. This ain't just a theory, I've worked on racecars where reinstating a stock weight flywheel was the best way to get the timing belt or chain to survive. Quite often, the failure happened when idling.
Since you now have a lightened flywheel, you may want to change your timing belt a little more often.
Lightweight flywheels on 4-cyl cars put more stress on the timing drive due to the torque impulses. This ain't just a theory, I've worked on racecars where reinstating a stock weight flywheel was the best way to get the timing belt or chain to survive. Quite often, the failure happened when idling.
03-18-2012, 02:11 AM
#36
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
You will need the turbo specific bell housing, clutch fork, release bearing, clutch, pressure plate flywheel... i think you may need the turbo starter ring gear also.
