Vitesse MAF Installation - Completed - you can do it too!
13 Attachment(s)
As per my DME thread, here is the full chronology of my Vitesse DME install.
First off - I could not have done this without John at Vitesse's help. As reflected in many forums, he provides timely and valuable support. Also Jon (a.k.a. Techno Duck) was incredibly helpful with advice and pictures. John’s instructions are clear, but make assumptions that the installer knows how to do certain things (i.e. remove DME and replace a chip). I am a true neophyte so this was a real learning experience. Removal of stock equipment- Removal of the old airbox, snorkel and J-boot is straightforward, as is the removal of the intercooler to throttle body pipe (although the fitment can be tight). Note 1: the one to the throttle body needs to be completely removed, but you only really need to loosen the one from turbo exhaust (to remove the airbox). Note 2: You have to pull the existing vacuum hose connections out from the J-boot. You will also need to remove the metal fittings on these hoses as they are not needed to attach the hoses to the new MAF J-pipe. I strongly advise cutting as close to the metal fitting as possible, otherwise you might find that the hose is not long enough to attach to the new connection points (ask me how I know). This is particularly an issue for the vapour purge line that comes from under the manifold which is barely long enough. With the J-boot removed you have access to the Turbo inlet (see Picture #1). Coupler & J-Pipe installation - If you have a K26/6 (like mine) you will have to install a reducer coupling (it can be purchased from Vitesse) for the J-pipe to turbo connection. I would recommend trimming approximately 3/8” of an inch from the turbo side of the coupling to improve the overall fitment of the MAF (it truly is a tight fit). You will also note that there is interference from the wiring harness that exits the alternator. This deforms the coupling (as seen in the Picture #2). I got around this by inserting the J-pipe at an angle (close to the overflow tank) and twisting it back a forth in the coupling until it was fully inserted. A bit of WD-40 helps here (and later on as you will have to adjust a lot to get the fitment of the whole MAF to an acceptable level). My other advice is not to tighten any of the clamps until the very end (even the reducer to turbo inlet) to ease the overall manipulation of the MAF assembly while fitting it. A little bit of planning on the orientation of the clamps is required to make sure that you have easy access to the tightening screws. MAF Installation – The actual assembly of the balance of MAF assembly is not difficult. However, you will have to play with it quite a lot to get the angles of the J-Pipe, MAF, coupling and air filter to get the fitment right and to provide the clearances for the headlight assembly, blow-off valve etc. Remember you will be working in both the horizontal and vertical planes. As John indicates in his instructions, it is easier to start with the headlights in the “up’ position. Fitment activities include rotating the J-Pipe to get good hose alignment for the vacuum hoses and BOV, playing with angles on the MAF pipe relative to the J-pipe and the air filter relative to the MAF pipe and ensuring that that the assembly does not interfere. I figure I spent the better part of 3 to 4 hours trying to get the best fit (probably could have done it faster, but was trying to replicate pictures on the internet and simply could not). As you can see from Picture #3, the cone filter still angles severely relative to the MAF pipe to achieve clearance behind the headlight mechanism. Note 1: If you do not have a MBC and want it, you should get one before starting. The MAF is set up for a MBC as opposed to the stock cycling valve. If you have a stock cycling valve you will wonder why you have an extra vacuum line when you start to reconnect everything (it is the smaller diameter one that comes from under the intake manifold – see Picture #4 - circled in yellow). If you choose to keep the stock cycling valve configuration (which I did), you will need to tee the extra vacuum line into the one that connects into the back (driver’s side) for the MAF. This will require a 5/16” T-fitting and extra hose. I sourced some ¼” (5/16” would be better) ID fuel hose to extend the vacuum hose from the cycling valve. Note 2: Hose connections to the J-Pipe: These require some fitting and positioning of the J-pipe to achieve alignment.
Wiring the injector resistors – To locate the correct wires you need to remove the white (yellowed) cover from the DME wiring harness plug that attaches to the DME. The Lindsey Racing injector harness instructions provide the information to do this (http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/INJHAR951.html). This allows you to locate the correct pin numbers (#14 and #15) and trace the wires. The resistors are quite small and I could not find any female attachments that fit well. The male ends are narrow, but quite thick. I ended up using 16 gauge ones and crimping them to ensure a tight connection. (see Picture #10) Changing the Chip – just be careful. I used Lindsey Racing’s instructions to remove the DME and replace the chip (http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/CHIPCHANGE.html). Prying the two boards apart is challenging and I thought that I might have damaged the board connections, but got lucky and did not damage then. I actually had to break a portion of the plastic connector to allow me to pull the boards apart (see picture). Also make sure that the chip is firmly seated on the board, otherwise you will get a no spark condition when you try to start the car (ask me how I knowJ) And that’s about it. I figure that my total time spent is close to 15 hours, but I am slow, clumsy and not very adept… Someone with skill could do this in a few hours. |
Nice write up Fergus - thanks for taking the time. I just ordered mine & have the benefit of a free install offer from Eniac! Looking forward to peace of mind with the Vitesse.
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Great work! Did you drive it yet? Does it require tuning, or is it ready to go out of the box?
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Originally Posted by Nurburger
(Post 6569560)
Nice write up Fergus - thanks for taking the time. I just ordered mine & have the benefit of a free install offer from Eniac! Looking forward to peace of mind with the Vitesse.
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Very nice write-up.
It is people like you that make this forum so good. Thanks again. |
Very nice write up! thanks!
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Fergus, Nice write up. I wasn't aware this is your first project on the car, good job.
For the pin that goes into the test plug, I usually strip about 1" of insulation off the wire, fold it onto itself a few times, to fit the plug, then solder the wire and create my own plug. Let us know how you like this setup. |
I'm curious how this works with the stock 26/6 turbo setup? I think I recall John saying that he didn't recommend doing a MAF conversion unless you were upgrading the turbo as well (hence both his kits come with a turbo). Also, did you upgrade your injectors? I think I also recall John saying that you needed his 72# or bigger to work with his MAF?
I'd love to go with a MAF but really don't want to have you yank my turbo out - everything I've read about doing that looks like it's a total #$%^&. |
Originally Posted by choinga
(Post 6571164)
I'm curious how this works with the stock 26/6 turbo setup? I think I recall John saying that he didn't recommend doing a MAF conversion unless you were upgrading the turbo as well (hence both his kits come with a turbo). Also, did you upgrade your injectors? I think I also recall John saying that you needed his 72# or bigger to work with his MAF?
I'd love to go with a MAF but really don't want to have you yank my turbo out - everything I've read about doing that looks like it's a total #$%^&. He is using 83# injectors and a 3bar FPR, he will need them once he upgrades the turbo (it's coming, he just doesn't know it yet :) ). |
Originally Posted by choinga
(Post 6571164)
I'd love to go with a MAF but really don't want to have you yank my turbo out - everything I've read about doing that looks like it's a total #$%^&.
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Great work! Did you drive it yet? Does it require tuning, or is it ready to go out of the box? |
He is using 83# injectors and a 3bar FPR, he will need them once he upgrades the turbo (it's coming, he just doesn't know it yet ). |
Initial driving impressions
[QUOTE]I'm curious how this works with the stock 26/6 turbo setup?[QUOTE]
Initial driving impressions are as follows:
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Very nice. How about 1st gear? Does the MAF do anything for the VW Beetle'ish like performance in first until ~4500 RPM when you finally hit full boost with stock? :)
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It improves the throttle response in almost all situations, however if you are looking for that low end punch off the line you really need to start thinking about bigger displacement or simply going with a n/a. Not much that can be done.
With the Vitesse MAF and K26/6, my car put down 260whp/torque (pretty much even split) at 14psi. This is with the usual mods.. 3'' exhaust, no cat..etc. Spool up was great with that turbo, 1-bar by 2700-2800 rpms usually. Hard to beat that with any turbo. My 60-1 is lucky to do 1-bar by 3300. |
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